I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3L that suddenly wouldn't start one day a few weeks ago. I thought it was a PCM or PATS problem but I've eliminated those as culprits. PCM has been tested and re-flashed with a PATS-disabled tune for single shot injectors by Chattanooga diesel tech. I've gotten my tablet and OBD-II adapter working so I can read live data while cranking. My EBP was saying it was seeing 44 psi so I replaced it (motorcraft) and it works fine now. I'm only getting a P0683 code and I see that the glow plugs aren't working. From what I've read I need a new GPCM, which I'll order soon. I don't think that would prevent the truck from starting, and by the voltmeter I have plugged in, I can tell whether the plugs are activated or not. I have seen them work since this no-start problem began so I don't think that's the cause. The tablet only gets a couple of data points, but the IPR is at about 15% at key-on engine-off, goes up to 47% and stays at about 65% after a few seconds of cranking. The ICP, however, remains stuck at zero. I unplugged the sensor and the value went to 2333 psi and it still wouldn't start. This should indicate that the ICP is fine and there is no oil pressure, right?

The oil level is fine. I just changed it a few weeks ago.

Does this sound like the IPR? A stuck poppet valve? Something else?

What's the easiest way to do a buzz test?

I wanted to start a new thread because I don't think this is an electrical issue anymore. My old thread is here for reference:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-no-start.html

 

Buzz test: I think you'll find Forscan is a good answer. A PC and a code reader is all you need to diagnose most of the OBD stuff (I use a USB model for Forscan, but I *think* it should work with a wireless as long as it will connect to your PC).

 

I use CarGaugePro for buzz and cct testing. Can lpop be measured while cranking? CPS working?

 

Do you have a volt meter capable of measuring resistance? Can you measure the resistance of the IPR Coil? i don't know what it that should be value should be but a guess would be 10-70 ohms. kOhms or Mohms would be bad. I can measure mine tomorrow but just cannot make myself go back out there tonight. Two weeks of wrenching on both trucks have killed my joints. It seems as though your truck is commanding it to work but its not reacting, or if it is, the high psi oil is being dumped quickly. Is the hpop reservoir full? Of course, there is the whole check the tin nut thing too but i have a feeling you already looked at that. I read both of your threads and do not recall anyone mentioning those things.

 

Do you have a gauge to check your low oil pressure while cranking? Also, have you looked at the pigtail to the IPR for bad wires? If they are bad inside the plug, maybe wiggle it and try to start it. This has happened to me and I didn't figure it out until I wiggle them and it started and then wiggled them while idling and it died. If they are not connecting, it could affect what your ICP is showing.

Hope this helps. Your ICP doesn't register at all while cranking? It could possibly be an HPOP problem as well. Been there too.

 

I'm trying to use Forscan and ArmyLifer's OBDlink MX to run the buzz test. This is a "supported" (as in, known to work) configuration for this, right?

I absolutely cannot get the OBDlink MX to pair with any device I have.

With a Windows 8 laptop, which is what I really want it to work with: It showed up in the device scan once. I tried to pair with it and Windows said it needed to install some software/drivers. The dialog box disappeared, the device does not show up in the paired devices list, and no amount of pushing the connect button, resetting, rebooting or unplugging has ever gotten the adapter to show up in the list again. It effectively cannot pair with the device at all.

With my iPhone: Just for troubleshooting purposes, I tried to get the adapter to pair with my phone. I know the app isn't going to work, I just wanted to see if they would connect on a network level. It showed up when I first scanned for devices, but when I tried to connect, I got an error message saying that the device was not supported. After that failed, I never saw the device show up again.

With my Android Kindle: Same thing. It showed up once, failed to pair, and never showed up again.

I know that ArmyLifer said that this is a known good adapter. I do not understand why it won't pair with any device I have.

I am still able to use the el-cheapo ELM327 adapter I bought from fleabay a few years ago. It connects fine to my tablet and torque pro reads the codes fine. However, I can't do a buzz test with torque pro.

I had to do a lot of hacking to get Torque Pro to run on the kindle since the kindle doesn't use the Google play store. I don't remember what I had to do to get it to work, either. I'm trying really hard to avoid installing anything else on it. Besides I really want to get Forscan to work since it's able to pull a lot more codes.

 

Just throwing it out there Andy, but that CarGaugePro pulls ALOT of codes. Even pulled the WIF light code for bulb not working..T.P i use ONLY for live gauge reading. I have an old ohone with CGP always charged, in the console

 

I had problems with linking as well.

One step I forgot between uses is that there is an icon that looks like a plug or a spoon with a slash thru it and that enables the link. Otherwise the device not found message will come up.

Hope that helps. I'm using an android and forescan.

Denny

 

I have a USB corded adapter to use with a PC. PM me your address and I'll send it out tomorrow.

 

Yes, if you can get it to connect with your device it will do a buzz test.
You might try connecting to another vehicle just to confirm your device are happy with each other. This is one area where a USB like Mike has is useful.

 

Thank you Mike, I really appreciate it. However, this is a diagnostic tool that I'd really like to keep in my toolbox. Can you just let me know which one you have and I'll buy one?

 

This is the one I have - there are ones that people say are better quality, but this one has done everything I've asked of it so far.


The one-day shipping option is nice if you're in a crisis. That's sure faster than I can get it to you.

 

Thanks Mike, it's on its way and I spent an extra $4 to get it here tomorrow.

Buzz test results hopefully coming tomorrow. That should tell me whether it's an IPR or an injector problem. I feel like I'm making some progress on this.

 

It's guesswork at best without using a code reader - so much is controlled by computer. I bet you will find out a ton more than just what the buzz test tells you when you go through the KOEO and PCM tests. Post up the codes you get and we'll wildly speculate from there.

 

I bet you're right. I was able to get Forscan on my iPad to work one time and it pulled codes from stuff I didn't know I had. I even recall seeing codes for which one of my reverse sensors isn't working so I'll be able to fix that too. Fingers crossed!