When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is for my brothers truck, I installed upper co trol arms tie rods and idler arm for him Tuesday night. Instead of going to the shop I told him he went to a local garage in town that I had no idea did alignments. So the truck had shims on the upper control arm bolts just like my 2000 2wd and when he brought it in to the shop they said he needed cam bolts not shims EVEN THOUGH I TOLD HIM THEIR WRONG HE SAID OK. So 8hours later the truck wasnt FINISHED, he picked it up yesterday after work and the truck was pulling hard to the right. He went back and around 630 they gave it back, my brother said truck is driving and braking straight but like I said they installed cam bolts (which I dont like) and also tore the boots on the brand new tie rods I installed!!!! So now hes arguing with the shops owner....
here's the spec sheet that they didnt give him till I said go back and get it
After replacing the upper control arms, the only way to adjust the camber and caster is to install the cam bolts. I don't know why you said they were wrong... I'm not an alignment expert but I don't think they make "shims" for that set up. You sure it wasn't the factory spacer that locks in the camber? I'm sure they'll figure it out and make it right... eventually.
He is the second owner, truck has 130k and the factory hardware is a 10.9 shoulder bolt with a shoulder nut. On each side of the upper control arm mount there were slotted shims with degree on them. My 2000 f150 had the same slotted shims and after my complete front end rebuild the aligment shop I use had a big case with all differnt slotted shims. They did beginning spec then changed the slotted shims to bring front end I to factory specs.
Cool... My 03 had the same set up and after I replaced the upper and lower control arms, the camber was way off.. "\--/".. I wasn't tracking that those slotted shims (what I was calling a spacer) were available in different degrees, so I installed the camber bolts and took it to an alignment shop where they squared it away...
Yes the local ford dealer said they have all different degrees as did my aligment shop. I personally dont like the degree bolts as they are smaller than the stock bolt/shim setup
they like the "KIT" because it is easy for those that don't know much about alignment... You have bolts that go thru slotted holes... I clean the area then spray a small dab of paint or magic marker around the washer under the bolt...... Remove and reinstall the NEW upper A frame.. Put the bolts back where they were ( marked) and you will be VERY close... I can use a level and ruler and get a better alignment than most shops... NO SHIMS OR CAMS NEEDED..
Lets say the spec is +.1 to -.1 .......... so if you read +.1 do they leave it there ? If the next truck is -.1 do they leave it there ? What if you had less tire wear at 0.0 or +.1 ? What if -.1 is marginally acceptable, but will cause excess tire wear in 20K miles ?? You set the alignment at some point within spec......... then monitor for wear for 10- 15K miles and then determine if a small adjustment is needed to get zero tire "abnormal" wear.
Exactly why I like the factory bolt and shim that the factory had. I knew it was bad when ten hours after dropping the truck off my brother called and said they were having problems
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.