When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Motor comes out. Billowing smoke is a really, really, really good indicator the cylinder wall is scored. And trying to flip a piston from underneigh without checking the values and head for damage is a poor way of doing this.
All of that information is disheartening. I didn't know there was such drastic differences between the years.
Diesel trucks are not a nonchalant purchase without a lot of research, and not one if your intent is not spend a lot of dollars on repairing one. If you are worried about variations in years and in need of replacing the entire motor, dropping in a 2006.5 to 2007 would get you the best updates with the only need to extend the ICP harness lead.
Well, my intentions was to pull the head and then crawl underneath and disconnect the piston from the bottom and pull from the top, check the walls for scoring once it's removed and have the head fluxed and checked while it's off. Would that be sufficient?
Diesel trucks are not a nonchalant purchase without a lot of research, and not one if your intent is not spend a lot of dollars on repairing one. If you are worried about variations in years and in need of replacing the entire motor, dropping in a 2006.5 to 2007 would get you the best updates with the only need to extend the ICP harness lead.
Makes sense. That may be the best route to go. I'll know for sure once I investigate the cylinder walls
Well, my intentions was to pull the head and then crawl underneath and disconnect the piston from the bottom and pull from the top, check the walls for scoring once it's removed and have the head fluxed and checked while it's off. Would that be sufficient?
Well, my intentions was to pull the head and then crawl underneath and disconnect the piston from the bottom and pull from the top, check the walls for scoring once it's removed and have the head fluxed and checked while it's off. Would that be sufficient?
IF, and it's a big IF....you are lucky enough to have a usable cylinder, you might be able to do an in frame piston replacement.
At the very least, if the walls look good, take the steps needed to check the bore measurements. Find a reputable machine shop with a cylinder bore gauge to inspect.
The difference in years is not a reason for extreme worry, just something I wanted to point out.
There are a few good things about the early builds as well. I'm just not a fan of the late 04 as it was a "hybrid" of sorts.
If I found a good deal on one I would not shy away from it.
IF, and it's a big IF....you are lucky enough to have a usable cylinder, you might be able to do an in frame piston replacement.
At the very least, if the walls look good, take the steps needed to check the bore measurements. Find a reputable machine shop with a cylinder bore gauge to inspect.
The difference in years is not a reason for extreme worry, just something I wanted to point out.
There are a few good things about the early builds as well. I'm just not a fan of the late 04 as it was a "hybrid" of sorts.
If I found a good deal on one I would not shy away from it.
Great. That improves my outlook, thanks. I indeed got a really good deal on this one so I don't care at all to invest some time and money in it. A new engine is worst case scenario but the body and interior are in great shape so I suppose if a new engine is the end result of all this I'll have a good truck for many years to come. Virtually rust free too other than some surface on the frame.
I have one holed a high mileage 6.0. It had 280k on it and looks like the PO lost an injector tip, scored a bore a bit. I used a rigid hone and took it .010 over. Its a Frankenstein but has been fine for the last 30k. If it does go, I'm only out a HG, piston and a couple gaskets. It was a pain to do though, you will need to knock the rigid down on top of the bore and pull it out the top. The piston cooling jet is also a pain to remove and reinstall. You need to get this out to properly hone it. The rest of you cylinders are a bit low, I did my long block in my 06 for about 6200. That was only reusing the ps pump, intake, turbo, balencer and exhaust manifolds.
Diesel trucks are not a nonchalant purchase without a lot of research, and not one if your intent is not spend a lot of dollars on repairing one. If you are worried about variations in years and in need of replacing the entire motor, dropping in a 2006.5 to 2007 would get you the best updates with the only need to extend the ICP harness lead.
Jack he has a late 04 so he is good on the ICP. Not sure on the EBP.
Is the late 04 back by the FICM or up by the T-stat? That is an easy
change with just a bit of wire and some convolute to cover it.
I would look for a late 2006 or a 2007 that has lower miles and studs with no known issues.
$2500 and you would beck on the road in short order
I have one holed a high mileage 6.0. It had 280k on it and looks like the PO lost an injector tip, scored a bore a bit. I used a rigid hone and took it .010 over. Its a Frankenstein but has been fine for the last 30k. If it does go, I'm only out a HG, piston and a couple gaskets. It was a pain to do though, you will need to knock the rigid down on top of the bore and pull it out the top. The piston cooling jet is also a pain to remove and reinstall. You need to get this out to properly hone it. The rest of you cylinders are a bit low, I did my long block in my 06 for about 6200. That was only reusing the ps pump, intake, turbo, balencer and exhaust manifolds.
So you were able to hone this in frame? If so I'll bet that was a real treat, but saved you enough money to hit the casino there north of town
Jack he has a late 04 so he is good on the ICP. Not sure on the EBP.
Is the late 04 back by the FICM or up by the T-stat? That is an easy
change with just a bit of wire and some convolute to cover it.
I would look for a late 2006 or a 2007 that has lower miles and studs with no known issues.
$2500 and you would beck on the road in short order
Thanks for correcting that Sean. Today is not a good day for me to be responding on Ford diesel stuff.
After a long hiatus I'm back at work on the powerstroke. Newest development, the picture I posted a while back of the glow plug was just the tip of the iceberg. The burn was consistent with the burn through the piston in that cylinder and intake valve. A plus is that the cylinder wall is perfect upon visual inspection. A negative I guess when the injector stuck in blow torch mode, it didn't stop at the intake valve. It got into the head just a little bit. Do any of you think this would cause problems? I feel the answer is obvious but, I just wanted to make sure.
