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A few things.
If you think you have oil and colant mixing then pop the oil filter out and look at what you have in there. Nice oil or brown/black milkshake?
The next one I should of made the first one. You always want to use a socket on both the oil filter and the fuel filter. NEVER use the 1/2" square. If you do it will crack.
That's exactly why I just ordered another cap for the fuel. Really helpful info. Thanks. Previous owner must not have had this information. Is spec on compression around 400 psi?
I think of the compression so long as you have a gauge that is setup for diesel you will be ok. Not sure what the # will be.
But if you have one that is much lower than 10% it's worth looking into why.
If you can make sure that the oil cooler is good you may just need to do the cooling system major flush with Dawn soap.
But you want to be sure that there is not a leak first. Oil pressure can get higher than the coolant so it will go that way first.
If the cooler is leaking it needs to be replaced.
If you compression test all 8 holes, and write down the numbers, it'll be obvious really quick if you have an issue. It really sounds like it's missing on 1 cyl during cranking, so I'm guessing you'll get 7 cyls within 10% of each other and 1 cyl at 0.
plus your obvious fluid issue... Sounds like oil getting into the coolant.
Is the oil level still right? Or has it "made oil"?
If you pull em all out first, it's easier on your batteries. Plus it'll be quicker between cylinders. If you do 1 at a time, you could potentially stop once you find the bad cyl, to save time, if you don't want to test the whole engine.
Speaking of batteries, to avoid hurting your FICM due to low batteries, use the solenoid wire by the fender to crank during testing, and charge the batteries back up before trying to start the truck with the key.
Good advice. Why would my compression gauge just bounce up and down with every stroke of the motor then? It won't stay up and build pressure, tried it in 2 cylinders so far. It seems pretty clear from me just typing all that out that it's a bad gauge. I just got it today. I can hook my proven good gasser compression gauge to verify that it's junk I suppose. Stupid harbor freight.
Surprisingly enough it was black?!? Really thin, but no milkshake.... What in the world?
See that yellow ring on the top of the oil diffuser standpipe? That is an adapter for an aftermarket oil filter. It needs to be removed, and be sure to use a Motorcraft filter and a stock oil filter cap. Many aftermarket filters replace the stock cap with a taller one so you may not have the correct cap on that engine either. A pic will tell us.
Originally Posted by Bzfoster
Good advice. Why would my compression gauge just bounce up and down with every stroke of the motor then? It won't stay up and build pressure, tried it in 2 cylinders so far. It seems pretty clear from me just typing all that out that it's a bad gauge. I just got it today. I can hook my proven good gasser compression gauge to verify that it's junk I suppose. Stupid harbor freight.
Like Yahiko said, in the end of the pressure hose you'll see a tire valve stem Shrader valve. If it doesn't seal it will do as you described. Just replace it or atleast remove it and inspect for debris and verify the seal is intact.
New development. The attached picture shows the glow plug in cylinder #3. After pulling that I tested compression and it stayed @ 0. Never even attempted to move. The rest of the cylinders seemed to have checked out. Although not a single one ever read over 280, in fact every single one was between 260 & 280 with the exception of #3. I don't know if that's totally accurate though, it could easily be chocked up to a crappy harbor freight gauge. At least it was consistent in its wrongness? Do you all think I should pull the passenger side head and push that Singular piston out from the bottom or pull the entire engine?
You have to open the bottom end up to get that piston out and that is 2 sections you have to remove. upper and lower oil pan. The bed plate can stay. How ever depending on the damage you may have
to do something about the walls in the cylinder. If that is the case you could save yourself time and energy by doing an engine replacement. A used engine is how I think I would go if the bore is wiped out. The one
big thing you will have to check on is it an early or late 04 engine. The ICP back by the turbo is early and if it's is up on the passenger side valve cover then it's a late. If you find it's a late I would be tempted to find
a 20 mm dowel engine to stuff in it. What you get with the later engines is you no longer have to deal with that PITA HPOP going dead on you. You do end up with the Stand Pipes, Dummy Plugs and STC fitting.
But once the STC is done it is not a death blow out in the middle of no where.
It is a late 04, however you still have the early style HPOP..........so that is still a factor.
Not a deal breaker, but something to remember.
Personally not a huge fan of the late 04. You have the weak pump, and stand pipes/dummy plugs as well since the oil rail is the late style.
You need an 05 or up to get to the newer HPOP.
I don't know that I have ever heard of replacing a piston from the bottom, at least not on a 6.0
Is there even room for the ring compressor without taking the crankshaft out along with other stuff?
