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The reviews for almost all kits on amazon are difficult to interpret. It seems like some reviews are for completely different kits from the same vendor/manufacture so it is hard to get a feel for how well these units last/remotes work. I understand that generally only a p***ed off individual gets online to write a review and most the other ones probably have had little to no experience using a product over several months.
How long have you had your particular kits installed? Did the doors require any extra parts to lock and unlock. I remember seeing that trucks with OEM Keyless Entry may be the ones that need relays to reverse polarity. Is the link you provided for your same kit?
The locks on these trucks (except RKE trucks) are what the after market calls a type A system, what that means is BOTH wires on the lock motor rest at ground through the switches, this requires two relays to break the ground connection and reverse the polarity to the lock motor.
RKE trucks already have the relays built into the RKE module and all you need to do is pulse the lock or unlock wires to work.
As for remote start units, they are all generally the same, DEI pretty much makes all of them, they keep buying everyone out. My experience with remote start is a bit dated ( over 10 years ago when I was installing them) I wouldn’t spend the money on fancy ones with lcd remote screens, 1 mile range, etc. One way remotes work the best for responding the first time you push the button, two way remotes with just led lights work fairly well and battery life is alright (about a year) but be prepared for it to scream at you randomly when your beside the vechile and it can’t receive a signal..... two way with lcd works ok, has the same issue as above but battery life sucks (2-3 month life), rechargeable ones run about a month before needing recharge and the remotes for two ways are over $100+ if you loose or break it.1 mike range is BS, maybe if you lived in an Amish community in an open straight line field you mite get 1 mile.
I use viper for my vechiles, 4204v is around $100 and comes with two remotes, they also support 2 vechile operation from one remote so if you put a unit in your vechile and your wife’s car you only need one remote. Anyways I think I rambled on enough for now lol
These trucks are very easy to install a remote start on, every wire but the hood switch is in the cab and around the column/ instrument cluster besides the door lock wires.
I was leaning towards viper just because it is such a brand name. I know 92/93 didn't have a remote lock function/option but I imagine the module just sent a pulse and as long as the bulldog unit sends the pulse it will unlock.
Freightrain,
Walk me through your install and how you start your truck. Photos from you and Zombie F150 of where you connected into your wiring harnesses and what color wires to look for would be awesome.
1. Do you just remote start and get in and go or do you have to insert your key into the ignition once it is already running, imagine you turn it to run without turning further to start.
2. Can you just hop in and start with your key if wanted?
Most of the starter wiring is tied into the column. The ignition switch. Using their instructions, you just cut the insulation loose for 1" in the middle of the wire, split the wires and stick the new wires through and solder. Tape it up. Bulldog had a large selection of wiring diagrams and colors for each vehicle. I see their website is changing and haven't looked lately to see what they they still have available. The kit comes with most of the needed instructions.
You hit the start button, the truck starts. If you get in and not insert key and turn to "RUN", it will shut off if you hit the brake pedal(to allow shifting out of park). That is the safety mechanism built into the kit. You tie a wire into the brake light switch.
Yes, you can ignore the remote start, hop in and start the truck normally. No fuss. This is tied in parallel to the factory stuff so it is not affecting normal operation.
The door unlock being one button is no fuss. Hit it once locks, the next time you hit it, it unlocks. It just toggles back and forth. The parking lights are tied into the system to show if the doors are locked or open. The new systems have the door lock relays in the box. You just cut the wires to the doors, wire it up and it works. The older systems I used to install you had to buy two relays and wire it yourself. Much easier today.
On the single button issue, I am used to double tapping our newer cars to hear the chirp. I can modify my habit for one vehicle but I cannot modify my wife's habbits and there runs the risk of her leaving my baby unlocked somewhere. Although she doesn't drive it.
The locks on these trucks (except RKE trucks) are what the after market calls a type A system, what that means is BOTH wires on the lock motor rest at ground through the switches, this requires two relays to break the ground connection and reverse the polarity to the lock motor.
RKE trucks already have the relays built into the RKE module and all you need to do is pulse the lock or unlock wires to work.
As for remote start units, they are all generally the same, DEI pretty much makes all of them, they keep buying everyone out. My experience with remote start is a bit dated ( over 10 years ago when I was installing them) I wouldn’t spend the money on fancy ones with lcd remote screens, 1 mile range, etc. One way remotes work the best for responding the first time you push the button, two way remotes with just led lights work fairly well and battery life is alright (about a year) but be prepared for it to scream at you randomly when your beside the vechile and it can’t receive a signal..... two way with lcd works ok, has the same issue as above but battery life sucks (2-3 month life), rechargeable ones run about a month before needing recharge and the remotes for two ways are over $100+ if you loose or break it.1 mike range is BS, maybe if you lived in an Amish community in an open straight line field you mite get 1 mile.
I use viper for my vechiles, 4204v is around $100 and comes with two remotes, they also support 2 vechile operation from one remote so if you put a unit in your vechile and your wife’s car you only need one remote. Anyways I think I rambled on enough for now lol
These trucks are very easy to install a remote start on, every wire but the hood switch is in the cab and around the column/ instrument cluster besides the door lock wires.
what part of the wiring in the colun do you tap into for the remote start? or is there a wiire harness that connects between for the remote start like some of the newer vehicles?
what part of the wiring in the colun do you tap into for the remote start? or is there a wiire harness that connects between for the remote start like some of the newer vehicles?
You grab the main wires from the ignition switch harness, that gives you constant power, ignition, accessory and starter. Then you can grab tach from the instrument cluster, park lights from the light switch and ground in the drivers side kick panel. (Don’t ground to the column is not the greatest ground source)
Thats the main wires wires for remote start, if installing into a standard trans truck then you got to also hookup e-brake(instrument cluster) and dome light and grab the starter wire at the clutch switch.
They dont make plug in harnesses for these trucks, as nice as it would be if they did make a harness it would probably be fairly expensive.
No, in that video he is converting the negative output of the remote start to a positive output.
This picture is how you would do it, this only works in the passenger door though
Thanks. That's an exact match to the diagram my coworker just drew for me. He worked at a audio shop a few years ago. He is telling me not to source the power for the relays from the positive wire going to the unlock/lock switch "it is typically not enough current". Is this true? BTW are 30/40 amp relays correct?
Thanks. That's an exact match to the diagram my coworker just drew for me. He worked at a audio shop a few years ago. He is telling me not to source the power for the relays from the positive wire going to the unlock/lock switch "it is typically not enough current". Is this true? BTW are 30/40 amp relays correct?
I don’t understand why your co-worker would say the positive wire doesn’t supply enough current when it’s powering the locks through the switch just fine. The relay coils draw very little current and the door lock power wire has a 10 or 20 amp circuit breaker on it so 30/40 amp relays will work. You just need to use standard Bosch style relays for the door locks, there cheap and easy to find everywhere.
I think he was speaking from general experience on newer cars maybe? Or could just be a trade practice he learned. I think this thread is shaping up to be a real information resource. Can someone post the wirecolor information for the the ignition system. I plan on referencing my haynes manual, but a double check is great.