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I'm heading over to help my dad with a 1970 F-250. He recently ran into some issues with no spark. I think he's replaced the points, coil, plugs, and wires and not made progress.
Does this year come with an ignition control unit? I know '76 forward comes with some sort of control module. I'm just not sure about our year truck.
Not unless someone converted it to electronic ignition. 75 was the first year for the trucks to get electronic ignition. Make sure you have power on both sides of the coil with the key on or you won't have spark. Had that happen a few times .
I'm heading over to help my dad with a 1970 F-250. He recently ran into some issues with no spark. I think he's replaced the points, coil, plugs, and wires and not made progress.
Does this year come with an ignition control unit? I know '76 forward comes with some sort of control module. I'm just not sure about our year truck.
DuraSpark electronic ignition introduced in 1974, but not all had it until 1976.
Points and condensers - the generic replacement condensers available today are notoriously bad. Try an old school condenser from your junkbox. Old points often need to have a file run across them, they get a skunge layer on them and will not conduct. In high humidity areas this can be fairly often. Check with a test light or beep test for continuity from the movable arm on the points to ground. Coils get replaced un-necessarily quite a bit. The system is so simple, it's easy to test at least.
We had no luck today... (didn’t see the coil comments above)
So far, we checked voltage on the coil. Both connections were just over 12 v. Turning the engine over voltage dropped to 9 on positive. Negative dropped to 4.
We doublechecked fuel is getting to the carb. We even poured gas into the carb and it wouldnt even try turning over.
One spot we’re curious about- we checked compression and got about 60-90 psi . Seems it should be about 140?
we even bypassed ignition straight to the positive coil terminal and no luck.
Hand cranked to TDC and the distributor rotor was pointing at #1.
We checked for spark at the wire end and were good there. (Didn’t check how much) spark plugs are brand new and gapped to .34
We’re stumped and wondering if we need to check either intake manifold gasket or see if valves closing right..
any suggestions welcome.
Last edited by turpentyne; Oct 28, 2018 at 03:44 PM.
Reason: Adding detail checked
We went out and tried again once the sun got a little lower, and no, the spark is pretty weak and intermittent. We’ve thrown the battery back on the charger. I’ve headed back home for the day but I think he’s going to try later in the evening and see if he gets any decent spark.
It does seem possibly a combination of weak spark and low compression. The thing is, this is a recently rebuilt engine, rebuilt carburetor, brand new distributor, coil, plugs and wires.
He said it started running rough a few days ago On the way home. And then this happened. I’m starting to question the Shop that rebuild the engine for us.
Does anyone know a trick to check for intake manifold leaks without being able to start the engine?
Can try a "vacuum lift test" I think it's called, with a vacuum gauge just cranking the engine over. Need a fresh battery and normal cranking speed. Should peg right at 5" if there's no manifold or other vacuum leaks.
if there's not a good hot fat spark, it isn't going to help anything. Did he try a different condenser? Trust me, they are all junk these days. See this all the time.
I’m not sure if he’s got a vacuum guage other than the compression gauge that we used.
We looked around for an old condensor but no luck. Just a rotor he bought a couple years back.
If we have to buy another, what brand would d we go for? There’s got to be somebody selling one worth a damn , if O’Reillys and AutoZone have junk condensors?
F-76 doesn't ring a bell. Maybe this one? Some of the old condensers aren't any good anymore due to their age. The el-cheapos from you-know-where sold today were never any good to begin with. Motorcraft still sells points & condensers.
F-76 doesn't ring a bell. Maybe this one? Some of the old condensers aren't any good anymore due to their age. The el-cheapos from you-know-where sold today were never any good to begin with. Motorcraft still sells points & condensers.
No such thing as Motorcraft F-200 or F-76.
This is a gypo auto parts store replacement in a "look-a-like" Auto-Lite box marked Automotive.
Genuine Ford would be Motorcraft (no Auto-Lite after 1972), and have the Ford and Motorcraft part numbers marked on it.
C9AZ-12300-A .. Condenser (Motorcraft DC-13-A) / Available from Ford
So far as I can tell, it looks right to me. They don't even list a condenser for our truck. Maybe somebody gave up keeping older vehicles in the database?
So far as I can tell, it looks right to me. They don't even list a condenser for our truck. Maybe somebody gave up keeping older vehicles in the database?
Update: Summit Racing has it listed correctly.
It's for your truck guaranteed. If it didn't, I wouldn't have listed it.
I passed out 100's of these puppies at the parts back counter to Ford tune up guys during a 35 year parts career.
In fact, the puppy fits all V8's except HiPo's from 1959 thru 1975. It was also used on some I-6's.