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Hey guy's, I have a friends 2005 6.0 in my shop. It will start and run but the second I take my foot off the accelerator to let it idle, it dies. It is hard to get started also. I have to have the battery charger on it to get this thing cranking FAST ... It will then start and run. I can bring the RPM down to almost 800 with my foot barely on the accelerator and it will keep running. The moment I take my foot off or try to get a lower RPM, it dies right out. I am including two screenshots of the ficm, icp and ipr while running at 800 rpm and about 150 ECT. Any help would be appreciated !
What is the system voltage, especially just before it dies?
That I will have to double check. The battery light is on in the dash but my scanner is reading 14 volts. The whole time the charger has been on and running.
Verify the battery voltage with a meter. Did you try the ICP plug removal trick?
How does it "feel" when running? What things have been done to the truck?
OK, I came into the shop this morning. I had both batteries slow charging overnight. They are both Interstate's dated 11/15. they are 850 CCA and 1000 CA. I load tested them and they showed good. I hooked up my multi-meter to the battery and started it. Now a cold engine from sitting overnight. It has the same symptoms as a warm engine. It started, wont idle. I started it back up, foot on throttle to keep it running around 900 RPM and it's NOT charging. Showing me battery voltage on the meter, 12.4 V. I just ordered an Alternator and it will be here shortly. I will be back to update the results.
Verify the battery voltage with a meter. Did you try the ICP plug removal trick?
How does it "feel" when running? What things have been done to the truck?
OK, New alternator installed, 140 amp. Started it up and now it is charging. 14.2 V at the battery. Had lots of white smoke for a minute then cleared out. It still dies under 800 RPM. Yahiko, I did un-plug the ICP and while it does the same thing it definitely starts a lot easier/quicker. Where to next?
My truck was just doing the same thing, dirty fuel and the harpoon on the bottom of the sending unit was broken. I dropped the tank. Cleaned it out with brake clean. Replaced the harpoon piece (50 bucks from Ford) put tank back in runs like a top.
OK, New alternator installed, 140 amp. Started it up and now it is charging. 14.2 V at the battery. Had lots of white smoke for a minute then cleared out. It still dies under 800 RPM. Yahiko, I did un-plug the ICP and while it does the same thing it definitely starts a lot easier/quicker. Where to next?
Sounds like a HPOP system leak even though the numbers seem good.
I think you may want to do an air test next. I know it a PITA but after doing
a cold air test and if you don't fine much get the engine up to temp and test again.
I had a thought. Have you checked the air intake path for any obstructions?
Sounds like a HPOP system leak even though the numbers seem good.
I think you may want to do an air test next. I know it a PITA but after doing
a cold air test and if you don't fine much get the engine up to temp and test again.
I had a thought. Have you checked the air intake path for any obstructions?
Sounds like a HPOP system leak even though the numbers seem good.
I think you may want to do an air test next. I know it a PITA but after doing
a cold air test and if you don't fine much get the engine up to temp and test again.
I had a thought. Have you checked the air intake path for any obstructions?
no, I haven't pulled the air filter and checked for any problems. Home now so I will check that first thing in the morning. If that looks good I will have to search the procedure for an air test. Ugggggh
You can get the item so many ways. If you search for "Ford 6.0 Air Test"
Here are some on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+test&_sacat=0
The better way is to support some of FTE sponsors and hit them up for the tool.
HHC Diesel makes a really nice one. https://www.hhcdiesel.com
Also the part can be gotten from any place that has OTC tools. The fitting is a metric with O-ring to pipe. I think it 1/4".
Also it's the same size and fitting as the fuel pressure test port. The one thing you want to make sure of is get one that
has the shoulder turned down so that if you use it for fule pressure the flats don't get hung up.
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