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I just went to start it again. It has been sitting for 45 minutes. Looking at the scanner, the IPR went right to 85% and ICP was 7lbs, then 25lbs, then 100lbs then it fired up after a good 15 seconds of turning it over. It was running about 900 RPM, ICP was 850 and IPR was 30%. Try and go any lower on the RPM, she dies.
Can you data log with your scan tool?
Things worth looking at.
ICP pressure and voltage
IPR %
Fuel pulse width.
system voltage
Vref
sync
Not sure what else. Do you have a copy of the PC/ED book? It is full of diagnostics info
and pin point testing. If you don't have that book I will look in mine to see if I can find
something that fits what is going on and get back to you on it.
Not how I wanted to start my weekend I had 124LBS pressure on the system over night and verified it again this morning when I came in. Still 124Lbs. I changed the engine oil (Rotella T-6) and Ford filter. I changed the IPR harness plug and a new IPR valve. Cranked the engine for about 10 seconds and it fired up. Ran great, was sitting there idling, I thought we may have this thing licked. About three minutes in, she died. I cranked it over and it fired up but it will not idle. I had it down to 800 RPM, scanner was reading 24% IPR and 580 ICP. This was the lowest i could get it before she just shuts off. Engine was temp was 145 degrees. Even though i never lost so much as a 1/2 Lb overnight, Is it possible to have a warm air leak? Should I get this thing warm/hot and do an air pressure test or am I just prolonging the inevitable? HPOP and STC. Ugggggggggh, Time for some brewski's
Oil thins out as it warms up. So what may be a minor leak when the oil is cold turns into a major leak when warm. On my 2006 6.0 years ago I was driving around and went to a store. When I came back out, my truck wouldn't start. It just turned over. Had to have it towed home. When the engine cooled off, it started up. Long story short, I had a HPO system leak (bad dummy plug seal) that only showed up when the oil was warm.
Sense he just did the dummy plugs and stand pipes and it still does the same thing I think we can rule that out as the cause.
BTW how did the seals on them look?
One other thing to try that is to run it by holding it in a high idle until it's up to temp and they hit it with an air test while it's still hot.
Also if you can do the data logging at that time to get it while running and then let it die.
Also check for any DTC (codes) and if your scan tool can also read the Freeze Frame data grab hat then clear the KAM Keep Alive Memory.
Then after t stalls out again see if there is any new Freeze Frame data. As I understand i the Freeze Frame data will persist until it is cleared
by clearing the KAM or removing the power. Then the next event to trigger it will then be held.
I took a little bit of time to read the PC/ED book but have not gotten too deep into it yet. More to come.
Sense he just did the dummy plugs and stand pipes and it still does the same thing I think we can rule that out as the cause.
BTW how did the seals on them look?
One other thing to try that is to run it by holding it in a high idle until it's up to temp and they hit it with an air test while it's still hot.
Also if you can do the data logging at that time to get it while running and then let it die.
Also check for any DTC (codes) and if your scan tool can also read the Freeze Frame data grab hat then clear the KAM Keep Alive Memory.
Then after t stalls out again see if there is any new Freeze Frame data. As I understand i the Freeze Frame data will persist until it is cleared
by clearing the KAM or removing the power. Then the next event to trigger it will then be held.
I took a little bit of time to read the PC/ED book but have not gotten too deep into it yet. More to come.
Thanks for all the advice Sean. I really do appreciate it. The dummy plugs I pulled out looked OK. Meaning no rips or tears to the O-rings. I am going to attempt to post a video of me starting the truck for the first time this morning. I have a scanner hooked up showing values and graphing. Lets see if I can do this.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and can rule that out. 55 PSI the whole time. While I was getting the engine warm for another air test, I took some snap shots of a cylinder contribution test because it sounded a little rough and I had to open the shop door. My eyes were burning
FWIW, the kids friend had an 05 that behaved EXACTLY they way yours is. Air tested cold, no problems.His did start hot most of the time but took some cranking.
Ended up being the STC even though hot air test you could BARELY hear it.
I took a closer look at it when he got it out. It was not really that bad, but you could take the two halves and feel some play/looseness there.
I could, at least theoretically once I felt the old STC fitting, understand why it behaved the way it did.
That's pretty low mileage so doubt the STC is updated, but who knows.
FWIW, the kids friend had an 05 that behaved EXACTLY they way yours is. Air tested cold, no problems.His did start hot most of the time but took some cranking.
Ended up being the STC even though hot air test you could BARELY hear it.
I took a closer look at it when he got it out. It was not really that bad, but you could take the two halves and feel some play/looseness there.
I could, at least theoretically once I felt the old STC fitting, understand why it behaved the way it did.
That's pretty low mileage so doubt the STC is updated, but who knows.
Thanks for the input Navistar. Out of curiosity, did he replace the HPOP as well or just the STC?
Originally Posted by Yahiko
Get hot then air test with a stethoscope on the HPOP cover to see if you can hear anything.
It really does sound like you turned the key off.
I'm on it ... Will do that test today. Thanks again. For my own peace of mind, Let's say it needs the STC. How long of a job is it? I'm sure I can look up video's and such on the procedure, just wondering how many hours labor it usually is? Being an 05 and your in there, would you replace the HPOP as well or just do the STC fitting update kit?
Well ****. I had a nice post I was working and the stupid computer picks that time to reboot for a security update STUPID Apple.
You would think it would give you a heads up on a reboot.
End rant...
I don't have the 2005 PDF for this one on the Mac so here is the 2006 and they really should be the same.
Unless the engine is in an EX that has the 2004 engine in it you will have the new HPOP and I would not change it.
I would make sure and replace all the pump to block seals that you get in the STC kit and because your in there once
the cover is off and if you find that the STC update has done I still would replace the oil pathway seals.
As for how much time it will take I am not sure. It will depend on it you remove things the way Ford shows of it you take
some short cuts. Myself I don't like to fight with bolts and so I would remove the intake to get direct access to the bolts
that hold the HPOP cover in place. If you have an EGR full delete then you may have the access you need to skit the
intake removal. Don't forget that the intake manifold gaskets are reusable but only cost about $22 for the two of them.
If I missed any needed PDFs let me know and I will dig them out of the PC. It's just really showing it's age with the 5 minute boot.
Sense he just did the dummy plugs and stand pipes and it still does the same thing I think we can rule that out as the cause.
But there are other places for leaks to occur. Could be a bad STC fitting, cracked branch line or even a malfunctioning HPOP. If the OP hasn't, I'd check the IPR and make sure the screen was clean.
Update, I may be onto something? What are your thoughts. Every time I Hook my scanner up I am pulling a P2614 code. Cam sensor. So I delete it and attribute that to excessive cranking. I just bought a Snap-on Solus edge and was playing with it this morning. Again, deleted the P2614 code. I put it in record mode and started the truck. It cranked for about 8 seconds then fired up and ran as per the usual 3 minutes then died. I uploaded the information to my laptop and lo n behold the P2614 is there. I scroll down to FICM sync and look at all my values the split second the FICM synch tells me "No". I still show good ICP pressure and good IPR percentages but NO FICM Synch. I am wondering now, I should maybe be looking into a Cam sensor or wiring? Also, if you see the graphs, The truck didn't get FICM Synch while cranking for 8 seconds either. What say you guys?
You may be onto some thing. Recorded data can be so helpful when you can line all the time of events up.
I would try what Mike said and see what happens.