OK, This was on the back burner for a while as paying jobs come first. I went through the cam sensor and harness as mike explained. Put back together and exact same thing. So I looked at the saved data again, this time blowing it up and I was able to see I didn't lose sync before it died. When uploaded on my lap top, the data was condensed so it appeared to have lost synch before it died. Back to what Sean (and several others said) to do. This morning I ran the engine to normal operating temp. I removed the IPR and installed my tester. Applied shop air pressure while monitoring my ICP pressure on my computer. I had 117 lbs. Just while watching it, it was dropping pressure. I lost 45 lbs with in 15 minutes. Alas, it never lost 1 lb while cold. Anyway, I listened down the oil dipstick tube, both valve covers and the oil filter housing. I didn't hear any air. I used my stethoscope in the rear, by the IPR and the other side. I still didn't hear anything. My air pressure was now down to 70 lbs. I added more shop air and brought my wifes better ears over and checked all the same spots. Nothing. Again it's down to 70 lbs. I am losing 45 lbs over a 15 minute period though. What do you guy's suggest next?

 

POST #38 ^^^^

I had a truck that would start cold and run and even restart until it hit exactly the same 188 degree oil temp. As soon as it died I watched the ICP and IPR readings while cranking. The icp would make just under 400 and the IPR would build and max out at 85%. During the air test unless it was over the 188° mark it never made a sound because the leak isn't bad enough and shop air was only 150psi. I pulled the hpop cover and sure enough STC fitting was bad. I could get just a little bubbling out of it while still warm.
At this point I would monitor the ICP & IPR and run it until it shuts off. Then try to restart and watch those numbers.
Heres a vid of it I made for the customer. The second video was an air test after it was 190° oil temp.
I'd consider pulling the cover. It seems it's the only thing you didn't do when you have a known leak.

 

.
Parts on the top of the stand pipe This is why it takes so long for an air test to blow the oil out of the rails.

I have not tried doing this so keep that in mind. It really depends on if the lower part of the top section is not hardened steel.
Ok here is how you can make this into a tool for blocking off one side. You unscrew a used stand pipe top take the lower section of the
top of the stand pipe and unscrew it and drill it to the correct size so that you can plug it with a grub screw that you have put some paste
thread sealant on (DO NOT USE TAPE) Rector Seal #2 would be good or any other that has PTFE in it. PTFE for people that don't
know is Teflon. The reason to not sue tape is if a fragment gets into the system it can kill an injector. Small clearances and tape don't
play well together at all. So stay safe and no tape in the fuel system. This may only be engine oil but it leads to the spool valves and
the intensifier piston. The clearances there are very tight. So tight that varnish from the oil can cause stiction.







Home brew stuck stand pipe pulling tool. The OTC one is crazy money.





The cap bolt is 1/4 #20 and the two aluminum things are just spacers that fit close over the bolt to press on the rubber hose to expand it so that it grips the inside wall of the long part of the stand pipe that got left behind.

 

Here is the PDF with how to use the tool. Look at the section 10e and 10f and that should get you to the info on how to use that tool or something like it aka home-brewed tool.

Well Hm. That file is not uploading. I will see if splitting it helps. Well that worked. The file must of just been too large.

Let me know if you need others.

 

In your second video, that is what mine was doing finally. With my ECT at 150 degrees I had a leak but could not locate it. After letting it sit for an hour, 104 ECT, The leak slowed down but it was still leaking and I couldn't locate it. Another hour goes by and I try again. ECT now at 88 degrees and I can plainly hear my leak, coming out of the oil fill. To summarize, NO air leak when cold. It held pressure overnight not even losing 1lb. Warm engine, a leak was showing 45 lbs in 15 minutes. 104 ECT temp, leak slowed down to about 26 lbs in 15 minutes. At 88 ECT was a definitive leak, coming out of oil fill tube at a rate of 25 lbs per minute. I guess my next step is to pull the HPOP cover and perform another air test. Atleast verify if this STC has been updated?

Sean, thanks for all the help and READING, lol .... I really appreciate all the help here guys !

 

Passenger side dummy plug and standpipe would be the first to check.

 

I had to go back myself but he's been there.
​​​​​​​ post #30

 

OK, removed valve cover. I just installed updated dummy plugs and the top half of the stand pipes a couple weeks ago. Just now I installed the new bottom half of the stand pipe on the pass side. Apply air and it is still leaking which surprises me on a cold engine. First time it has done that, maybe the problem is getting worse? I cant tell where the air is coming from but can hear it very well with the valve cover off. Next check?

 

I'm sticking to my answer. You won't know until you pop the HPOP cover.

 

I was afraid you might say that. I see some o-rings in my future.

 

Well when you exhaust other possibilities and haven't updated it yet, it definitely isn't going to hurt. What will hurt is if it blows apart and cracks the rear cover. Point is it should be done anyways. You can clean your turbo unison ring while it's off too. Here's the kit usually around $48ish.

4C3Z-9B246-F

 

 

Well, I removed the HPOP cover and while it is the original STC fitting, it doesn't look to be leaking. I can still hear air coming from the pass side head. I am going to update the fitting since I am in there but where else could this leak be? Injector O-rings on the pass side head? The dummy plug and upper/lower standpipe are new on pass head.

 

Even though you replaced the dummy plug, might it be possible that the o-rings were "nicked" on installation?

When suspecting an injector seal leaking air, it is best to pull the valve cover and repeat the air test w/ the valve cover off.

 

Thanks Mark. I removed pass valve cover and using a 3/8 rubber hose to my ear I checked all 4 injectors. The air leak is by far the loudest at the front most injector. I am going to pull the oil rail and have a look at that seal.