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You can get the item so many ways. If you search for "Ford 6.0 Air Test"
Here are some on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+test&_sacat=0
The better way is to support some of FTE sponsors and hit them up for the tool.
HHC Diesel makes a really nice one. https://www.hhcdiesel.com
Also the part can be gotten from any place that has OTC tools. The fitting is a metric with O-ring to pipe. I think it 1/4".
Also it's the same size and fitting as the fuel pressure test port. The one thing you want to make sure of is get one that
has the shoulder turned down so that if you use it for fule pressure the flats don't get hung up.
Thanks for all the pointers Sean ..... I will update as I move along with this process. BTW, do you still have your Amarillo?
I have two of them. The extra one is sort of for sale and will have a salvage title.
Nice. I have mine as well. I had thought about trading it in last spring until I saw the prices on new one's, ouch! I love this truck, now at 175K, It has never givin me any problems. Well, I did have to replace 1 injector 2 years ago but I know why that went bad.
OK, I ended up buying the IPR test tool. I removed the IPR and installed the tool. Applied shop air pressure and I can't hear any air leaking anywhere. While I was waiting for the tool to arrive, I had to start it and move it a few times. A cold start, it would start right up and even idle for a minute or two. As it idle'd, it would eventually shut down. Also, a lot of white smoke on start up and running rough. It would smooth out but then quit running after a minute or so. Try restarting and no go. Even with ICP unplugged. It would only start when COLD as in an overnight sit. I thought I would hook the scanner back up while the air pressure is applied to check pressure at the ICP. Now I am showing NO pressure at the ICP wether it is plugged in or not. Unplugged, I used to show the default numbers, but not anymore, just 00.0
Where to go from here? Pictures are my IPR test tool hooked up and of my IPR valve.
If it were mine and I could not find any other reason then the oil cooler would be coming out along with the HPOP.
Then the reservoir would get cleaned really well along with flushing out the connection to the the pump. Not sure
about what I would do with the pump to clean it out. I would not just want to throw a pump at it do to the cost.
Do you have a VCM with IDS so you can get a contribution test? Even if it's a short one.
I have a Snap-on Solus pro I am using. It does allow for a cylinder contribution test which I did before I took it apart. While it was running, I performed that test and everything showed normal. No misfires. I left air pressure on the system over night and when I came in this morning I opened the shut off valve on my test hose and it was still full of air. It must be safe to assume there are no air leaks? I also charged the batteries overnight and now for whatever reason, my ICP pressure is reading on my scanner. With shop air the system is reading 124.5 lbs pressure. I shut the valve off and let it sit 30 minutes and it still reads 124.5 lbs. I really don't want to get into the oil cooler and such as this truck is only used a few times a year to plow. My friend uses it to plow his property. I would rather just get it running for now.
If no air is leaking, would you assume it is a HPOP? Even being an 05?
Thanks for the help and advice.
You can use an ohmmeter to test continuity through the IPR itself (should be between 3 and 15 ohms, iirc usually around 6) but I suspect that isn't your issue with it.
With it installed in the truck, you can repeat the air test, but through the ICP sensor port. Get the 100+ psig air hooked up and flowing and then close the valve. Listen for a soft click or change in air flow sound. when you have both the power and ground wires connected. If you hear air leakage w/ it installed, it would be at the oil fill tube AND the ccv tube.
There are numerous ways to close the IPR. Some scan tools can command it closed, you can rig up a spare connector to get the B+ and ground wires to it, or you can backprobe a PCM connector (w/ the key on, engine off) to complete the ground circuit (the IPR gets B+ voltage w/ the key on and the ground is applied only when the PCM decides to do it).
You can also inspect it when it is out of the vehicle. Look for trash inside of it.
Not how I wanted to start my weekend I had 124LBS pressure on the system over night and verified it again this morning when I came in. Still 124Lbs. I changed the engine oil (Rotella T-6) and Ford filter. I changed the IPR harness plug and a new IPR valve. Cranked the engine for about 10 seconds and it fired up. Ran great, was sitting there idling, I thought we may have this thing licked. About three minutes in, she died. I cranked it over and it fired up but it will not idle. I had it down to 800 RPM, scanner was reading 24% IPR and 580 ICP. This was the lowest i could get it before she just shuts off. Engine was temp was 145 degrees. Even though i never lost so much as a 1/2 Lb overnight, Is it possible to have a warm air leak? Should I get this thing warm/hot and do an air pressure test or am I just prolonging the inevitable? HPOP and STC. Ugggggggggh, Time for some brewski's
You can have leaks that don't show up cold. Just like the ones that go away hot.
I don't recall and don't want to go back and read it all over again.
What are the state of the stand pipes and dummy plugs? They would be my first point to look at for oil leaks.
You can have leaks that don't show up cold. Just like the ones that go away hot.
I don't recall and don't want to go back and read it all over again.
What are the state of the stand pipes and dummy plugs? They would be my first point to look at for oil leaks.
I am not sure of stand pipes or dummy plugs. The owner has no idea either. I probably should check to make sure they are at least the 12mm style. I just thought no air leak cold they aren't the problem. I will pull valve covers and check.
Pulled both valve covers off today. Both standpipes and dummy plugs were 10MM. I updated both sides with parts from ford. Back together, started it up and let it idle for about 3 or 4 minutes and same thing. Gives out a little grunt and dies. Very hard to re-start. It does have a brand new HFCM and new fuel filters. I think I will check fuel pressure next. Not sure what else it could be.
To condense this. 2005 6.0 87K miles
Starts cold and will run all day as long as you don't let it idle. (Manual tranny)
Cold start, let it idle for about three minutes, then dies like you shut the key off. VERY hard to get running after it dies out.
Updated the dummy plugs and stand pipes
new ICP
new IPR
new oil and ford filter
new-ish FICM (I didn't replace it but it has obviously been replaced, looks new)
I had 124LBS pressure on the system over night and verified it again this morning when I came in. Still 124Lbs. I changed the engine oil (Rotella T-6) and Ford filter. I changed the IPR harness plug and a new IPR valve. Cranked the engine for about 10 seconds and it fired up. Ran great, was sitting there idling, I thought we may have this thing licked. About three minutes in, she died. I cranked it over and it fired up but it will not idle. I had it down to 800 RPM, scanner was reading 24% IPR and 580 ICP. This was the lowest i could get it before she just shuts off. Engine was temp was 145 degrees. Even though i never lost so much as a 1/2 Lb overnight, Is it possible to have a warm air leak? Should I get this thing warm/hot and do an air pressure test or am I just prolonging the inevitable? HPOP and STC. Ugggggggggh, Time for some brewski's
