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What else to do when replacing HPOP lines?

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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 04:50 PM
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What else to do when replacing HPOP lines?

With 248k, I'm going to do HPOP lines just because. I don't see it anywhere in the service history, and they are OEM-style so they could be original. I also intend to do all the o-rings on the pump. Is a pump rebuild recommended at a certain mileage, or just whenever it becomes symptomatic?

I'm buying parts for a bunch of maintenance ahead - who is the preferred supplier for HPOP lines? Upgraded stock ones, or CNCfab? Crossover or no crossover?

What else should I be doing while I have all that glorious access in there?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 06:04 PM
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i am dealing with a P1211 and in reserching it i ran across a claim the oem HPOP was good for 225k

i will go find the claim when i get home to my computer.

that said back when my HPOP did fail i bought the “ cool setup “ rebuilt one.... it failed quickly. i replaced it wirh a motorcraft unit about 80k ago. lesson learned.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 06:29 PM
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while you are in there, have you done the fuel lines ?

i think it is the passanger side hard line that is prone to bursting from rubbing a hole in it at the clamp on the back of the head.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 06:37 PM
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Stick with OEM HPOP lines for some reason aftermarket ones dont last. Like mentioned obove make sure your passenger side fuel line is OK, I would suggest resealing the fuel bowl and changing the Parker sleeves in the fuel lines going to the heads to fuel bowl.
you can also reseal yoir HPOP I think its Riffraff? Or Diesel O rings? that carries them.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 07:13 PM
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Great advice - I'll add that stuff to the list to do while I'm "in there".

Many thanks!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 07:21 PM
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My upgraded HPOP has been in there for over 4 years...no issues. I replaced my HPOP lines just a couple of months ago...if you are getting the nice stiff ones that replace the STIC fittings, if the fuel bowl is out of the way it sure would not hurt a darn thing getting them back on. They are super stiff. I did the whole riff raff deal all the banjo bolts are replaced, fuel bowl rebuilt, FPR from riff raff added, I also replaced the pedestal o-rings and added the billet wheel all at the same time.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
Stick with OEM HPOP lines for some reason aftermarket ones dont last. Like mentioned obove make sure your passenger side fuel line is OK, I would suggest resealing the fuel bowl and changing the Parker sleeves in the fuel lines going to the heads to fuel bowl.
you can also reseal yoir HPOP I think its Riffraff? Or Diesel O rings? that carries them.
yep, exactly. Riffraff has the factory lines and the reseal kits
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 08:31 PM
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An upgraded wheel is on my list... I'll look into how difficult it is.

CNCfab lines don't last?

Still looking for opinions on doing a crossover or not. Tonight's reading will be on FRx and 4-way, whatever they are.

EBPV delete? AIS delete?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 08:45 PM
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Well with the fuel bowl out of the way it makes it a heck of alot easier to pull the turbo and the pedestal. Almost the same as CNC...same concept, just got them off of ebay.

These as a matter of fact.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-03-Ford-...t/182003021559
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 10:22 PM
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I just texted this info to a buddy who called and asked where to get HPOP lines.

HPOP Line - Driver Side Head 99-03 (YC3Z9J323E)

HPOP Line - Passenger Side Head 99.5-03 (YC3Z9J323F)

HPOP Quick Disconnect Hose Removal Tool for Ford 7.3L 99-03

Stewart
 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 11:19 PM
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here is a thread showing the clamp that rubs a hole in your passanger side fuel line.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-line.html

riff raff sells the ford line but cursiously doesn’t offer the correct clamp.

 
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Old Aug 9, 2018 | 11:51 PM
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Thanks for all the info!
 
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