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Reading this thread, my money is on a bad IPR. The only way you will trigger a code for it during a no-start is about 20 seconds of solid cranking, should register a low ICP code at that point.
Sticking IPR's are common and usually don't trigger codes, but often they give the same symptoms as a failing CPS where the engine won't start at times, or will stall suddenly and randomly.
WOW, you may have hit the nail on the head as that is something no one else has suggested.
I understand you have need of a special ford tool to replace it.
Marvin
WOW, you may have hit the nail on the head as that is something no one else has suggested.
I understand you have need of a special ford tool to replace it.
Marvin
No, just a really deep socket, remove the connector and the tin nut and it should fit. I can't remember the size off the top of my head. It's been years and beers.
You can swap it fast and only leak out a little bit of oil from the HPOP. Put a rag under to catch most of it.
I bought a 29mm Axle nut socket from Auto Zone today and it was really deep. I had a small 1/2" ratchet and it worked fine. I had to unplug several wiring plugs and tie them out of the way so I could get on hand in there.
About 1/2 hour to remove it and another 1/2 hour to take it apart, clean, add new "O" rings, and re-assemble. It will be a PITA to get it back in because I have pretty big front paws. That will be a job for tomorrow afternoon.
I'm not sure how much oil leaked down on my Rags and paper towels but I will have to re-fill it.
I DO NOT know where the re-fill plug is on the HPOT. Does anyone know-----I would appreciate it.
Marvin
I trust it is OK to post a link? Here are the instructions I went by for the procedure. Rebuild instructions
Last edited by GA_Boy; Sep 22, 2018 at 06:20 PM.
Reason: add a few words
The HPOP draws oil from the engine oil pan. It's not on a separate system. Those instructions you posted says to refil the HPOP..... ignore that. When you crank the engine the HPOP reservoir will be refilled.
Also rebuilding the IPR is a hit-or-miss. So just keep that in mind.
The HPOP reservoir is the small tank right in front of the fuel bowl and if you want to check the level it's the cap on top that requires a hex wrench to remove.
The IPR was kind of cruddy when removed. I took apart and cleaned, put it back in and still NO RUN. I guess a new IPR is the only option unless someone can offer other suggestions as what I could do. I found a replacement IPR on line for around 60 dollars + shipping.
I am certainly not opposed to trying other suggestions.
BTW; RPM gauge still registers some when cranking.
Marvin
How long did you crank it? Any time you crack open the HPOP system the air has to purge out. This can take some time and lots of cranking.
Pocket, you should change your handle from Pocket to "Life Saver". I'm a 78 YR. old with some Memory loss, hence, not as sharp as I once was. I went back and cranked for another 20-30 seconds and it fired up. Very rough running until all the air was purged. Runs great now.
I can't begin to tell you and the Others how much I appreciate all the help I have received.
Marvin
EDIT-----I added SOLVED to the original title.
Last edited by GA_Boy; Sep 24, 2018 at 12:56 PM.
Reason: To add SOLVED to the Title
I drove around all day and cranked 12-15 times and t never hesitated. Cranked and ran fine. Actually before at low idle it seemed that one Injector was not firing properly but today it was as smooth as Grandma's sewing machine.
IMO-----Take a chance on cleaning rather than putting big money on a new one.
Marvin
Cranked and ran fine for 5 days. Would not run this AM-----------------I waited 30-40 minutes and it cranked and ran fine.
As of now the only thing I know to do is to buy a new IPR and try that. Maybe the old one that I cleaned is still the culprit.
Any suggestions?????
Marvin
I replaced the IPR I cleaned with a new one off the Internet. Now I let it sit for a couple of days and it is very hard to crank and skips some before it levels out and runs smooth.
I don't think the new IPR was OEM so could one not OEM be bad from the start.
Question 1=Should I install the higher priced one from Ford?
Question 2=Could it be a bad HPOP?
Marvin
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