The IPC is covered with oil so I can clean it with Carb cleaner as suggested.
Is there any way I can repair the existing IPC and stop it from leaking oil?
I think the OEM replacement is around 150 dollars.
Marvin

 

I disconnected the ICP and cleaned it and the wiring harness with carb. cleaner.
I tried to crank with it disconnected and no run.
I plugged in the harness and it cranked and ran fine. ( a little rough)
Then I unplugged the harness AGAIN and it cranked and ran fine. (a little rough)
I'm having trouble understanding the circuits to the point that I don't know what to check.
How do I tell if it is a bad ICP or a bad IPR or both?
When I get to PIN 42 How do I set my test meter and is the ignition switch on or off?
I know if I take it to FORD they will replace a bunch of stuff and charge me an arm an a leg.
Thanks again
Marvin
PS The IPR nut is tight.

 

 

Hello and thanks for the advice I have been given on this Forum.
I finally got my F250, 7.3, repaired. It was the ICP sensor leaking oil so I had the 3 wire Pigtail replaced too.
Thank you everybody, you are a great online Team.
Marvin

 

 

I can't believe it--------------------------I tried to crank it and it would not start.
15 minutes later it cranked fine----------------------I can't imagine what would cause it to do this.
The RPM's register when cranking the engine over but it didn't run. Now it runs.
Fuel filter, water in fuel, wiring under the valve covers, IPR, I don't know where to start looking.
Marvin

 

My truck is a 6 speed manual transmission. When my Son in law cranked it he asked if I held the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.
I'm not sure if I do or not as I push until the engine turns over. I'm thinking there is only one set of contacts on the clutch switch to allow it to turn the engine over. If there are two switches that may be the problem-----------------not sure though.
I don't have a schematic of the electrical parts of the clutch switch/switches.
Does anybody know?
Marvin

 

BUMP
Since nobody can get any codes from it I guess I'll start throwing new parts at it.. Three people have tried.
So far CPS and ICP and 3 wire pigtail have been replaced. I thought it was fixed but it failed this AM again so I let it sit for 20 minutes, unplugged the ICP, tried to crank, plugged it back in and it cranked. Not sure if the wait 20 min. did the trick or if unplug/plug back in helped.
The valve cover wiring harness and the IPR seem to be the only things that will affect cranking.
Do I replace harness's (2) or the IPR first and test or Both?
Thanks, Marvin
PS, does anybody make these parts that are as good as OEM?

 

Did you take it to a regular repair garage for the codes to be read? Dealer? FWIW, I can't understand why someone with a diagnostic scanner can't read codes. That should be no problem with proper equipment.

That being said I am not a fan of throwing parts at something until I fixed it. It just doesn't make sense. I realize you are frustrated but you really need to get those codes before attempting anything.

Edit to add: Go and purchase a ELM327 OBDII adapter and download torque lite to your cell phone. It will read all codes for yo and give you some diagnostic capability. You need to be monitoring rpms, and injector pressure readings when you are cranking. Without those two readings it is a crapshoot what might be happening. JMO

 

fefanatic, I took it to a diesel repair shop and they had an expensive machine. They did not get any bad codes.
My regular Mechanic has a $3K machine and got no codes.
I'm taking it to my regular mechanic Monday and leaving it until he figures it out without throwing parts at it. He has a Ford Mechanic that can help him without taking it to a dealer..
My Mechanic said if the wiring harness was bad it would be skipping.
Marvin

 

Once again I still have problems.
Recent history.
1. Would not start although engine turns over fast.
2. Had SIL crank and I sprayed either-------------Cranked and ran until either ran out.
3. Had it towed to Ford Dealer in Commerce.
4. They got it to run using either and drove into shop.
5. They did the Diagnostics and no codes showed.----------Cranked and ran fine several times.
6. I paid the $100.08 and drove it home.
7. Sitting in my Carport and will not run.
Now I think I will start removing parts such as air tubes, etc so I can get to all the electrical connectors, Disconnect clean them with electronics cleaner and apply Dielectric grease. Then try to crank. If no run I'll go to the next connector and repeat until that Sucker runs.
Any other suggestions will be appreciated.
You all can't imagine how exasperating this is.
Marvin
EDIT 2 hours later---------------------The darn thing cranked and ran fine. I will still clean the different connectors.

 

 

Thanks, will do and get back later today.
Marvin

 

Reading this thread, my money is on a bad IPR. The only way you will trigger a code for it during a no-start is about 20 seconds of solid cranking, should register a low ICP code at that point.

Sticking IPR's are common and usually don't trigger codes, but often they give the same symptoms as a failing CPS where the engine won't start at times, or will stall suddenly and randomly.

 

Now it will crank and run fine with or without the heater plugged in.
I will have to wait until it it WILL NOT run with the heater connected and then unplug and see if it will run. I will CK the frame pump tomorrow.
The agony continues.
Marvin