Background: 2002 F250, CC Lariat, 315,XXX miles. Truck is running great. No major mods, stock turbo, stock injectors, HPOP, Etc.

My up pipes were leaking around the baby's butt so I decided to replace them with Dorman bellowed up pipes. To my knowledge the turbo had never been rebuilt so, I figured while I had it out for the up pipes I would rebuild it and change the compressor wheel. I used a rebuild kit from SP turbo with their 7x7 wheel and a reinstall kit from Dieselorings. The removal and rebuild went smoothly and so did the rebuild until I went to install the new wheel. The new compressor wheel would not spin on by hand so after a few hours of research on the correct thread size and measuring I determined that the threads on my new wheel were correct but had not been cut deep enough. So, I dug out the correct size tap and chased the threads, the wheel still didn't spin on freely but only required light pressure from a wrench. I checked to ensure the turbo spun freely before reinstalling, all was well as far as I could tell.

Reinstall took somewhat longer due to the v-band clamp being a royal pain but, I eventually got it together. Side note: the easiest way I found to do this was to put the clamp all the way around the baby's butt then with the up pipes as loose as possible, line everything up and slide the clamp in place. I removed the t-bolt so I could easily stretch the clamp as far as I needed to and rotated it around to ensure it was seated properly.

After getting it all back together and checking for leaks, I took it for a light test drive to the fuel station around the corner, at idle the turbo does not seem to sound any different than before but, when giving it throttle it sounds like a blower on an old school muscle car. A deep bellow sound with a little chirp in it. My first thought was that the wheel was making contact with the housing, so I pulled the air filter and spun it by hand, everything spins freely with no shaft play or contact that I could find.

Does this wheel make this sound for everyone? Did I mess something up during the rebuild? Any other Ideas?

Trying to figure out how to upload a video now, Ill post it as soon as I can.

 

Here are the links to a couple of videos of the noise in question.


And

 

My loose change says, you got a boost leak

 

If it spins freely by hand, and it doesn't touch the housing at all, then the next question is whether it builds boost. When spinning it by hand, also check to see whether there's any in/out play (axial or thrust movement) or any sideways (lateral) movement. I couldn't tell anything from the video. Buy a BT OBD-II dongle and get Torque (free) or Torque Pro ($5) if you have an Android phone - literally the best investment.you could make for your truck. With that you can check boost, and everything else. Otherwise get Forscan for your laptop for analysis (free).

 

I agree with Timmyboy76 and have a few quarters in my pocket to bet as well.

Double check the collector to up-pipe connection and if you find it is OK, keep looking. If you can freely spin the wheel of the compressor then your turbo is more than likely just fine and waiting for you to feed it more exhaust.

 

Sounds like an exhaust leak, probably the baby butt and turbo didn't get align right.

 

Alright yall, its definitely got an exhaust leak either from the manifolds to the up pipes or at the baby's butt. It is making a few pounds of boost but nowhere near what it should be. The highest I saw on Torque pro was 6psi during WOT. During that test I was blowing a little smoke and it actually started smoking from under my hood. The half second it took me to realize that was exhaust smoke was scary.

Any tips for aligning the baby's butt since my previous method apparently did not work?

 

Leave the V band clamp over the baby butt lip with the bolt and nut unattached from the side that can be reinstalled, then align the turbo to the baby butt, then slide over the V band clamp making sure both the turbo and baby butt are still align, then slide the bolt bolt over the clamp and tighten just a bit so they wont come loose. Then hand thread the 2 turbo pedestal bolts, once they are threaded then tighten the V vand clamp all the way and lastly the pedestal bolts.
Hope I explained this where it can be understood.

 

I changed the title of this thread slightly, so as not to fall afoul of the guidelines. No big deal, in my eyes, but if one person does it, the rest feel free to go to hell and back

These guys got you covered, Jschon

 

 

 

Considering the uppipes are in the equation, hit up bob orings for a new set of a$$ gaskets for the butt. There no good second time around. This go around, assemble everything loose, then work your way around snug'n crap up as a whole

 

Well, I finally got it fixed, had a busy week at work and some rain so I couldn't get to it as soon as I had hoped. Turns out, the baby's butt connection was not lined up right. I think the dowel pin moved while I was trying to clamp it last time.

This go around, I loosened up everything, including the turbo mounting bolts and put the v-band clamp completely over the baby's but. I then ran a ratchet strap around the drivers side up pipe. I hooked one end to the little mounting bracket the Air intake tube bolts to (next to the CCV) and the other to one of the tow hooks. I reached around and lined it up while a friend snugged the strap up. This kept the pipes in place well enough for me to ensure that the connection was good by feel and use of an inspection mirror. It only took maybe 10 minutes of messing with it including setting up the strap.

So,moral of the story is to use something to hold the baby's butt in place while you tighten everything down. I haven't had time to go for much of a test drive yet but I ran around the block to check for leaks and it sounds like it should. No more blower sounds. Thank yall for the help.