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I believe I f**ked up my turbo tonight. I was installing the new wicked wheel and I hand started the wheel on the turbo and bumped it with the impact checked it and bumped it again, when I bumped it again I saw shaving start flying. I looked and the end of the wheel with the "nut" is stripped. Also the wheel is not seated all the way and I checked the spin and you can feel its not right like something is rubbing, now what?
What could I have done to the turbo? Is it completely f**ked or not?
Also what are my options for a new turbo? If I have to get new I would like more power but more cost effective way. IE: keeping everything stock but the turbo. I dont want to have to put new uppipes in or pedestal or intake manifolds. Get my point?
Start by taking the WW back off. Then check the shaft to see if it still spins freely. If it does, put a new wheel on but leave the inpact wrench in the tool box, hand tight is plenty. If it does not you will need to rebuild or replace the turbo. The best dropin option would be a 38r. Riffraff Diesel: Garrett GTP38R PowerMax Ball Bearing Turbo
Pull the turbo a tear it apart. If you didn't bend the shaft your fine. But use a new wheel.
As far as a new turbo, and you want to upgrade, 38R from Clay is the most cost effective and its a direct replacement. Way more boost, you mit have to get a boost fooler to, to be able to take advantage of all the new boost.
Chet
The best option to install a WW is to remove the turbo. That way you can securely hold the turbine wheel and thread the compressor wheel on without damaging anything and you will get it fully seated.
Thanks for all the responses.
I'm headed over now to try and fixed it... a couple questions...
First:
How do i free the EBPV actuator from the valve arm, thats why I didn't completely remove the turbo. If its a pain in the a** to get off, will it be a pain in the a** to get back together?
Second:
is the GTP38R a direct replacement?
Third:
Whats up with the van turbos? are they also a direct replacement?
Sorry for being such a noob, i'm learning as I go...
Thanks for all the responses.
I'm headed over now to try and fixed it... a couple questions...
First:
How do i free the EBPV actuator from the valve arm, thats why I didn't completely remove the turbo. If its a pain in the a** to get off, will it be a pain in the a** to get back together?
Second:
is the GTP38R a direct replacement?
Third:
Whats up with the van turbos? are they also a direct replacement?
Sorry for being such a noob, i'm learning as I go...
You should just slide the locking clip towards the pedestal. That will unlock it from the pin. Then when the turbo is loosened, you will be able to unload it just enough that it will slide off the EBPV pin. Reinstall is easy. Just align the rod on the pin and snap the clip on. Then reinstall the turbo to pedestal bolts. Instructions here
Yes, the GTP38R is a drop in replacement turbo on the 99.5-03 trucks..
Van turbo's are also a direct replacement on the 99.5-03 trucks.
I pulled the whole turbo out and got the compressor wheel off checked the shaft, no play. put the old wheel on everything spins good. Reinstalled the new wheel with no problems. IDK what I did last night
I pulled the whole turbo out and got the compressor wheel off checked the shaft, no play. put the old wheel on everything spins good. Reinstalled the new wheel with no problems. IDK what I did last night
did the same thing with my first w.w. install. "Thought" the wheel/shaft was seated correctly, but a few months later...BAM, snapped ur in half. Realized, there wasnt the "3/16-1/4in" of shaft protruding through the wheel...
Put everything back together and the truck has NO power and hard to start. When I put the Y pipe on and was connecting everything noticed the green vac line was broken. Could this be the source of no power?
The next logical item to check is the Up-Pipe collector to turbo clamp. Did you verify that the flange and pin were aligned tightly before you clamped it up? That is usually where people mess up. It is a little hard to get aligned and it is hard to see. You should be able to check it with a mirror and flashlight. Look between the gaps in the clamp and verify there are no gaps.
That will be the most logical low power items. Also verify the EBPV is not closed.
Pulling the turbo should not have any effect on the hard to start issue.
My friend and I both check the up pipe since it was a PITA. I'll check it again tomorrow. Would the truck sound any different if it wasn't fully connect?
It may sound different. If you loosen the manifold to up-pipe bolts it will slip on easily. I have done it several times and don't even struggle with it at all when I loosen those bolts. Once everything is torqued up top, tighten them back up.
For got to hook up the boost line coming from why pipe to the sensor. Which makes since bc the turbo spooled buy wouldn't go anywhere like there was no fuel. All hooked up and running great.