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Cranking No Start-- Updated/ Solved

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Old May 20, 2018 | 09:03 PM
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Cranking No Start-- Updated/ Solved

I am experiencing a fast crank no start issue on my later build 04 F250.

Backstory... The wife and I were headed out to my doctor's appointment on Thursday. I started the truck without problems and let idle while I grabbed my coffee. Truck appeared to be running fine as we left. We made it a block from the house when the truck acted as though it ran out of fuel. Truck died after chugging for a second and would not restart.

I have gone over what I am capable of on the no start checklist and can't identify the problem. The truck cranks just fine, and sounds as though it's starting but it won't run. I've had it start a couple of times while troubleshooting, but it's like an 8 second ride on a bull! Sounds awful to boot.

Batteries and alternator are less than 6 months old. When i installed the batteries, I also installed 1/0 cables. FICM voltage is good. Oil changed Monday with Rotella T6 and Motorcraft filter. Fuel pump is doing its job and no bubbles on fuel bowl. Unplugged IPR, no change. After removing fuel filter I did make sure to purge the system. Fuses and relays check out.

I have pictures of my CTS Insight that I'm attaching. One key on engine off, one cranking, and one of my DTC's.

I'm at my wits end, and don't have a lot of funds for parts at the moment. Can any of you offer some insight?

KOEO


Cranking


DTC
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 09:39 PM
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From the codes. it looks like you have already tried starting it w/ the ICP disconnected. Is this the case?

The ICP shouldn't read 1.7 volts at KOEO

Inspect the wiring and the connector at the EGR valve, ICP sensor, and at the MAF sensor.
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 09:41 PM
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That's correct.

EGR is deleted by previous owner
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 09:44 PM
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Try starting w/ the ICP and the MAF disconnected. If the EGR valve is still in place, disconnect it.
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 10:01 PM
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Still no joy. Acts like it wants to start but won't. Threw code 113 without MAF connected.
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 06:04 AM
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need you to post engine data when cranking

cam/crank sync
FICM sync
rpms
FICM VPower, LPower, and MPower
ICP psi and volts
IPR % duty cycle (may be labeled ICP duty cycle on the CTS)
Vreference voltage
fuel pulse width
mass fuel desired

Also, KOEO
Double check the ICP volts and post
What are your IAT1, IAT2, and EOT (oil temp) readings
Are your injectors buzzing w/ KOEO?

Lastly, I remembered the P098 code wrong (my apologies), it is for the IAT2 sensor, not the MAF/IAT1 sensor. Check out the wiring and the connector to it (IAT2)

After getting the above readings (since you have a couple of glow plug codes), you might try plugging in the block heater for 20-30 minutes and then trying to start.
Try it w/ the IAT2 plugged in and with it unplugged.
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
need you to post engine data when cranking

cam/crank sync
FICM sync
rpms
FICM VPower, LPower, and MPower
ICP psi and volts
IPR % duty cycle (may be labeled ICP duty cycle on the CTS)
Vreference voltage
fuel pulse width
mass fuel desired

Also, KOEO
Double check the ICP volts and post
What are your IAT1, IAT2, and EOT (oil temp) readings
Are your injectors buzzing w/ KOEO?

Lastly, I remembered the P098 code wrong (my apologies), it is for the IAT2 sensor, not the MAF/IAT1 sensor. Check out the wiring and the connector to it (IAT2)

After getting the above readings (since you have a couple of glow plug codes), you might try plugging in the block heater for 20-30 minutes and then trying to start.
Try it w/ the IAT2 plugged in and with it unplugged.
I am working on getting my phone app up and running to see if I can get you those readings. Most of those PIDs don't exist on my CTS. The IAT and oil are same as coolant, the temp in my garage is right around 60* and the sensors reflect that. I have had the IAT2 code since purchasing the truck 2 years ago. All of those codes are "normal" for my truck, it's been running fine until last week. Plugging in the truck doesn't make a difference at this temperature. I have only had to plug it in when it was below 0 up here. Injectors are buzzing at all key on. Give me a few and I will look for the PIDs on my phone app. I appreciate your help with this.
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 04:50 PM
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These are the PIDs that I could find on the Torque app. The top left PID is FICM Logic, I hate screenshots on my phone... stupid volume button!



KOEO


Cranking
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 05:30 PM
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While you are trying to get the other readings, Are your injectors buzzing w/ KOEO?
Most important ones to get first would be
ICP volts KOEO and cranking
Cam/Crank Sync
FICM sync
Vreference voltage
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
While you are trying to get the other readings, Are your injectors buzzing w/ KOEO? Yes, I hear the injectors buzz KOEO
Most important ones to get first would be
ICP volts KOEO and cranking .3v KOEO 1.7 +/- Cranking
Cam/Crank Sync
FICM sync
Vreference voltage
I can't find these 3 PIDs on either CTS or Torque app
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 05:59 PM
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Torque App

Cam / Crank Sync PID 2209cd
Min Value: 0
Max Value: 1
Scales Factor: X1
Unit Type:
Equation {A:0}
Unit header
7E0

FICM Sync: PID 2209cd
Min Value: 0
Max Value: 1
Scales Factor: X1
Unit Type:
Equation {A:1}
Unit header
7E0
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 06:01 PM
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PID: 221155
Long name: Calibration Input Voltage
Short name: VREF
min. value: 0.0
max value: 5.0
scale factor: x1
unit type: Volts
Equation: ((A*256)+B)/13107
header: Auto
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 06:05 PM
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You stated earlier that the fuel pump is doing its job. How did you determine this? Filling the secondary fuel filter bowl w/ KOEO?

Any water in the fuel? Any gasoline smell to it (had to ask)?
 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 06:35 PM
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Thanks bismic for the PID info. I have screenshots of KOEO and cranking again.

I did verify fuel pump by filing secondary fuel filter bowl. No gas here!


 
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Old May 21, 2018 | 07:40 PM
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Is the injector buzzing sound strong on all 8 injectors?

Do you have access to a known good FICM to try?

I just don't think that a few bad glow plugs could hold you out, but maybe you have a few injectors acting up.
 
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