Cranking No Start-- Updated/ Solved
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 252
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From: Lake of the Ozarks
You guys are full of great information, that's why I'm here! Thank You!
I have the fuel pump running as it should (sounds great and you can hear it pushing fuel.) Upper bowl isn't holding pressure so I'm going to check the pressure regulator now.
I have the fuel pump running as it should (sounds great and you can hear it pushing fuel.) Upper bowl isn't holding pressure so I'm going to check the pressure regulator now.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
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May be a little too late, but finally trimmed the files to just the fuel system and got them to attach to post above. The files do contain information on the pressure regulator.
What was wrong w/ the previous install?
Any "gurgling" as described early in this thread?
What was wrong w/ the previous install?
Any "gurgling" as described early in this thread?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2016
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From: Lake of the Ozarks
Thanks Mark, I'll have a look at them when I'm back on the computer. I'm still out in the garage.
I can't say for sure what was wrong with the install, I can now hear air and fuel moving (gurgling) through the lines. Sadly, I just broke my fp gauge adapter so I will need another one to give good readings. This project has been one thing after another. Right now I have the regulator apart. So far everything looks good. I have a kit on order in case.
I can't say for sure what was wrong with the install, I can now hear air and fuel moving (gurgling) through the lines. Sadly, I just broke my fp gauge adapter so I will need another one to give good readings. This project has been one thing after another. Right now I have the regulator apart. So far everything looks good. I have a kit on order in case.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
While you’re there .....
Here is a thread I was in today.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pressure.html
Thanks for adding those training manuals Mark, I don’t think I have those.
Here is a thread I was in today.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pressure.html
Thanks for adding those training manuals Mark, I don’t think I have those.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2016
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From: Lake of the Ozarks
Thanks TMT, that's some handy information.
Mine looks to be upgraded already (spring isn't blue but long skinny and still stiff) The gaskets and o ringsare in good shape. I went ahead and put it back together, I don't have a lot of fuel coming out of the test port. I have some but not flowing out. If I take the filter cap off again I'll have to replace it. The "nut" is more rounded. Seems like nothing going right here.
Mine looks to be upgraded already (spring isn't blue but long skinny and still stiff) The gaskets and o ringsare in good shape. I went ahead and put it back together, I don't have a lot of fuel coming out of the test port. I have some but not flowing out. If I take the filter cap off again I'll have to replace it. The "nut" is more rounded. Seems like nothing going right here.
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Senior User
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From: Lake of the Ozarks
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2016
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From: Lake of the Ozarks
Replaced fuel pressure spring and fuel filter cap. Have fuel back at the bowl, can't check pressure until I replace the adapter.
I'm back to my original problem, cranking no start.
KOEO:
ICPV= .3
IPR= 14.7%
HPOP= 13.1 psi
FLP & FVP= 11.7v
FMP= 48
Cranking
ICPV= 1.4
IOR= 65%
HPOP= 994 psi (I've seen higher during troubleshooting)
FLP & FVP= 10.5v
FMP= 48
I'm letting the batteries recharge right now. I'll check for new codes later. The truck cranks and tries to fire off but won't run longer than a few seconds.
I'm back to my original problem, cranking no start.
KOEO:
ICPV= .3
IPR= 14.7%
HPOP= 13.1 psi
FLP & FVP= 11.7v
FMP= 48
Cranking
ICPV= 1.4
IOR= 65%
HPOP= 994 psi (I've seen higher during troubleshooting)
FLP & FVP= 10.5v
FMP= 48
I'm letting the batteries recharge right now. I'll check for new codes later. The truck cranks and tries to fire off but won't run longer than a few seconds.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,901
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Those are good numbers for high pressure oil. No apparent issues there. Need to absolutely nail down the fuel delivery (pressure and flow).
In your first post, you mentioned no bubbles in the fuel when cranking, but I am going to post a couple of links to videos on fuel bubbles. If you do more checking on this, do not crank w/ the key. It stresses the batteries, glow plugs and FICM. Best to crank w/ the starter solenoid wire so the FICM doesn't activate and the glow plugs don't activate. The glow plugs pull quite a few amps.
At about 4:00 minutes into the video, the Tech talks about compression entering the fuel system.
Here is another video (shows the starter solenoid wire and a good bubble test):
Bad bubble test (this one took quite a bit of cranking to see the bubble, at the 2:00 mark it shows up well):
Bubbles from the standpipe means bad injectors, From the side means air being introduced with the feed.
In your first post, you mentioned no bubbles in the fuel when cranking, but I am going to post a couple of links to videos on fuel bubbles. If you do more checking on this, do not crank w/ the key. It stresses the batteries, glow plugs and FICM. Best to crank w/ the starter solenoid wire so the FICM doesn't activate and the glow plugs don't activate. The glow plugs pull quite a few amps.
At about 4:00 minutes into the video, the Tech talks about compression entering the fuel system.
Here is another video (shows the starter solenoid wire and a good bubble test):
Bad bubble test (this one took quite a bit of cranking to see the bubble, at the 2:00 mark it shows up well):
Bubbles from the standpipe means bad injectors, From the side means air being introduced with the feed.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
OK.
Back in post 6 Mark asked you about plugging in the block heater and in the next post your kind of blew him off as it's too warm. I understand your point, but you really need to do that. Even in warm temps if the glow plugs for whatever reason are not heating up getting some more heat into the motor for 3-4 hours may make the difference in keeping the self ignition fire in the cylinders. It's a box that should be checked off. If the motor runs, then you can look at the glow plug system intently.
Back in post 6 Mark asked you about plugging in the block heater and in the next post your kind of blew him off as it's too warm. I understand your point, but you really need to do that. Even in warm temps if the glow plugs for whatever reason are not heating up getting some more heat into the motor for 3-4 hours may make the difference in keeping the self ignition fire in the cylinders. It's a box that should be checked off. If the motor runs, then you can look at the glow plug system intently.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2016
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From: Lake of the Ozarks
Thank You Mark. The starter solenoid is the only way over done the bubble test. I haven't run the test for longer than a few seconds though. Perhaps I should run it longer.
TMT, that's a good point. I didn't intend to blow anybody off. I'll plug the truck in and try to start it before bed tonight.
This is all very frustrating, especially when I literally can't afford to have a broken truck.
TMT, that's a good point. I didn't intend to blow anybody off. I'll plug the truck in and try to start it before bed tonight.
This is all very frustrating, especially when I literally can't afford to have a broken truck.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2016
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From: Lake of the Ozarks
Plugged in truck for 4 hours last night. I need to check the wiring because it didn't do anything at all. Both EOT & ECT were at 66*. Truck had been charging for a while so I decided to try starting again. The truck did start and run very rough for 30-45 seconds. I was able to do this a couple more times before it just cranks over. This is the most it's "ran" in 2 weeks! I haven't gone out there today yet, but I'll be working on it.