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So I went pulled the valve covers off and I was going to replace the valve stem seals l.... well I found out that I had bad valve guides and bent push rods (couldn' turn some of them) so I bought new heads from local scrap yard and they are rebuilt and damn pretty lol I wanna get new head studs not going to turbo it so wandering what kinds of studs are the next best wishes I had money for the arps but no I don't lol broke man lol thank you for yalls information
If you have a 7.3, then R&D's prices for ARP studs are pretty affordable (compared to other vendors like Summit): ARP 7.3 Head Stud Kit
But considering you are not going to turbo it, studs are overkill. You can buy new head bolts from places like RockAuto if you are willing to put your eggs in that basket. If for any reason you think you might ever turbo your truck, then you should really consider studding it now. It's a hassle to do after the fact.
Wondering if the head bolts International put on the IDIs originally were TTY? Is there a reason to buy new OE hardware from RockAuto if you don't intend to install a turbo and go with studs?
Guys,you don't even need studs if you are going to put a turbo on it.These old trucks will take plenty of your money where they need it,don't worry.
You don't even need new headbolts..
Originally Posted by Olds64
Wondering if the head bolts International put on the IDIs originally were TTY? Is there a reason to buy new OE hardware from RockAuto if you don't intend to install a turbo and go with studs?
They are not TTY, At least I can confirm this on the 6.9 because I have the actual international manual for it. I reused mine. Been in there almost a year, none broken yet..
R&D's price is good but shows out of stock. When I throw gaskets at my 7.3 I'm going to upgrade to allen cap bolts. Either from Fastenal or Cat to increase clamp force. Not necessary but is cheap insurance compared to studs.
They are not torque to yield, but the 7.3 bolts are garbage compared to the 6.9 bolts. The 7.3 bolts start to stretch just past their torque spec. There is a really good headbolt / stud discussion in the headstud thread. Every IDI ive pulled the heads on needed bolts due to corrosion, so just count on doing them. In fact the 88 i built for my 92 had 5 bolts break in the block.... Without a turbo, there is no reason to stud, even with a turbo, you dont need to stud the 7.3 until you make "more than you need" by XLTs standards.
Started the tear down today got the altinator out the compressor out gpr and wiring harness cdr valve
tried to get the vacuum assembly?? Out but I don' have the right socket size I guess lol a question in have is do I need to take it off to get the heads out what about the pulley bracket that there all on?? ... just want to get this done as easy as possible lol
and about the injector pump I got little front plate off and I see the 3 12sided bolts and I see the 3 bolts on the other side of the front cover that the ip has just take all six off?? Or take front cover off and just Mark it since I am putting new heads on it