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ok im changing the head gasket on my new 85 f250 6.9 and im wondering if the head bolts stretch or are they continuously re-usable? also my first ford and truck so anythign i should look for or fix now whife i have it apart and parked?
The 6.9 head bolt are not reused due to stretching, some have done it and gotten away with it by increasing the torque 10pounds. ARP studs are the way to go, an expense that will pay off in the long run. If you expect to go turbo get the studs.
Please put a signature up with truck info....all of it.
The 6.9 head bolt are not reused due to stretching, some have done it and gotten away with it by increasing the torque 10pounds.
IH lists head bolt torque for new and used head bolts on a 6.9. The only mention of changing them is if they are stretched. I've changed a few head gaskets and heads on the 6.9 and the only time I've replaced head bolts is if they showed signs of stretching. I can only recall changing a few of them, on a certain 84 with a turbo. Is this something that has been changed in the last few years by IH or is this more of a personal habit?
ok how would i know if they are stretched? do they have to go back in in the same order? and does anyone work at ford or know somebody with a discount cause if i have to get knew ones i dont want to pay 7.39 each.
ARP headstuds are about 264 for a set including shipping.
That is about 10 dollars more than a set of bolts would cost at the price you quoted and they are much stronger.
RC you would then have a missmash of bolts old and new.......it may be a personal habit, but none of the guys who have done the ARP studs has ever complained that I've seen.
With head studs, the normal complaint is that the heads are difficult, or impossible to remove with the engine still in the vehicle. Can they be removed with the studs installed without removing the engine?
i called ford and they said thta the bolts should not stretch so i shuld not have to replace them. and i was thinking about the head studs and i dont think it would be possible to put head studs in with it in the engine bay. well maby cut some firewall out and that black air box in the pasenger side. will be plenty fun putting them back in with just the head bolts.
but i got the heads in to a machine shop today and monday i will know if they are good or dead here's hoping
Since the ARP heads studs do have an allen wrench socket in them I think you could actually use the fuel line to hold them up just like you do the head bolt trick.
ARP recommends that you run the head studs up to torque and then remove them 5 times as you install them. I did this when I installed mine, the first two times I found the studs did tighten almost 1/2 turn more before the torque was reached. The 3rd and 4th time the extra turn was reduced to 1/4 turn and 1/8 turn. The 5th time the wrench was in the same position before and after loosening and retightening.
I am old and the engine compartment is tight. If I do a head job, the engine will be removed first. It is so much easier to work on things and do the job right when you can stand up and don't have to worry about knocking dirt somewhere you don't want it or how bad your back and legs hurt.