Thanks for your patience, first off, cause its been awhile. I have read quit a few threads that others have started and have usually found the answers I required. However, I find that this instance will require a formal introduction and an attachment. Down to it.

Truck has: 246,xxx; BD GT; stock inj.; Banks ram air; powermax; BD up pipes; straight piped; harpoon & hutch

Symptoms: very hard start when oil is at operating temp(185) while starting considerably easier at colder temps like 50 or 60; noticeable lose in power; drastically lower ICP numbers'; have noticed this issue getting progressively worse

I replaced the starter and the power cable required trimming back 4" due to heat/corrosion. Started chasing HPO side with new ICP sensor and IPR. Then new HPOP. Pulled valve covers. no oil coming around the retaining collar and all the spill spouts seem very even and consistent. Buzz test sounds ok with valve covers off. Batteries are up. I then got AE. Tried it out expecting to see duty cycle up. When everything looked good to my inexperienced eye, I harpoon & hutched it thinkin that I may have been getting air since previously cleaning the tank screens. I did pry on the screen housing a good bit and possibly nicked an Oring. It seemed to make a slight difference with the hot start. I don't know why, cause I sure didn't expect it to. Just thought it better to try that than the light 'er up and roll 'er down the yard approach. And yes, ladies and gents, I brought data logs to the campfire. Let me know if you can not access the attached file, as I could not during preview for some reason. Thanks again

 

First, are the IPR and ICP sensors OEM Ford or aftermarket from one of the stores? You probably already know this but the non OE IPR and ICP are generally crap at best.

Next, a friend of mine purchased a bad IPR from Ford and had similar problems. Ford warrantied it. Had someone put a used IPR in a Ford bag and resealed it? Who knows?

A quick, easy, and inexpensive test would be to purchase a can of air: computer keyboard type and invert it and spray the IPR when the truck is hot. This cooling/freezing lowers the resistance in the coil on the IPR. If that causes the truck to crank and light easy when hot, then you have found the problem.

I have no way of looking at your log currently. Sorry!

 

You can pressurize the HPO rails (nick named The Cody Test) and see if the injector O rings are leaking. Warm, thinner oil can squeak past bad O rings that cold, thick oil can't.

 

^^^^ Cody test

 

Ok, I have learned that csv. format can be viewed with Excel. Gonna post some logs of cold crank and hot crank. Will also see about using a more common format.
The IPR and ICP are Standard brand. I may have and issue with my IPR pigtail. The wires are not impregnated but the rubber insulators have turned to snotty bubble gum.
I did previously pressurize the galleys with shop air but did not command the IPR shut with 12v since I didnt have a pigtail to do so. Would it help to reassemble and do some hard pullin logs? Just didnt wanna put her all back together to have to tear back down. I guess the back valve cover bolts and removing the pass inner fender to get the rear lower valve cover bolt is more of a pain than anything.
What the hell, Im already having dreams bout it. How much worse can it get, right? Famous last words.

Thanks

painandgain

 

Pass side valve cover can be removed without removing the inner fender.
1/4" drive ratchet with 6" extension, and a universal joint.

 

will be stowin that lil tid bit away. thanks

 

When you get good at it from lots of practice that you didn't necessarily want...you can have both valve covers off in less than 20 mins...trust me. And that inner fender cover need not come into play.

 

I'm down to about 35-40min...lol

 

Has anyone been able see anything in the posted data log that would indicate a problem?

 

I could be me or my computer or both. All I see are 5 columns related to time, 1 for B+, 1 for engine oil temp, 1 for IPRDC, 1 for ICP, 1 for RPM's. Based upon what I see, there is only enough info available for a rudimentary diagnosis at best.

We only need one column for time. Please include FIPW (Fuel injection pulse width), MFD (Mass Fuel Desired), MAP, and EBP along with the PID's that you have already provided. If you feel the truck is safe to drive and won't leave you stranded, give us a run and include MPH in the PID's as well as the ones above in an extended log.

Based upon EOT I assume that the engine is warm.
Assuming that the time stamps are aligned correctly in EXCEL, your IPRDC jumps to 44.53% yet your ICP is only 675 psi. The highest ICP is 1550 with an IPRDC of 22.26. Something is wonky....... ....IPR.... maybe.... unless those readings are simply due to starting the truck and then it settles into idle.

Have you sprayed the IPR with the inverted can of keyboard air to see if there is a difference yet?

What does "Standard" brand sensors mean?....FORD OEM (very highly recommended) or some other cheap knockoff that will fail you without notice at the worst possible time?

 

Standard is the name of the brand, company is Standard Motor Products (SMP for short). They're on the higher end of aftermarket in my opinion - been running their ICP/IPR combo for a couple years with no issues. While I do plan to eventually get International sensors again, I have no problem running Standard - especially since I get a much better warranty on them if they go through my old workplace than Ford or International offer.

 

Thank you for that info. I was not aware that company made sensors for our trucks.

OP: I'd get a can of air or a different IPR and give it a go.

 

Headed out now to reassemble and run some log time with the requested PID's. Been shavin time off on the disassemble and assemble. Still not as fast as you guys. I actually loath the idea of gettin faster at it. Not to mention the comments as my brother, father, and uncle walk around my truck and talkin bout their cummins. "never had any of those issues with mine" "shoulda got a cummins" "this is what you get for always being different" blah blah blah. lol. I gotta get ol girl back to pickin it up and layin it down, cause when it comes down to it, my truck is a daily driver and a hauler. Theirs rarely work. Will check back soon with some relevant info

 

OFF POINT

havent been able to gather new data logs. starter woes. 3rd re-man just to get it outta the garage. one with cracked composite around the main power stud from abuse while in the box during shipping or whatever. second starter heated up pinch(?) bolts that hold together the motor and then the end of the motor case(suspected internal ground issue). third stater worked great for 15 starts or so. randomly started not kicking out the bendix. tried to start the truck with 10 or so crank attempts. no engagement at all at this point. just free, strong motor spin. the last attempt left the starter motor cranking with the key off. brand new re-man. a well known local shop specializing in starters and alternators threw it on the tester with me standing there. solenoind relay contact was stuck and bendix did not kickout and the bendix shaft had massive amounts of end play. i tested it myself but wanted the second opinion for the store i had gotten the starters from. ANYHOW, the local shop that tested it for me said that for a couple years, ford used a starter design that was way under built which resulted in numerous issues. this un-named brand of re-man starter priced at $188. the shop that tested the 3rd starter for me, ordered me a NEW denso-nippon built for a tractor or backhoe or something with a price of $250. the shop owner(a mellow fellow) actually got a lil excited, saying "thats double the weight for 5x's the starter" and that "its the cats meow". will let you know how it does. data logs coming soon