6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

before 9/2003 ford f250 diesel 6.0 wont start hot or cold ICP=about 250 to 450

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Old 02-16-2015, 12:21 AM
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before 9/2003 ford f250 diesel 6.0 wont start hot or cold ICP=about 250 to 450

Hello my early 2003 f250 diesel with the 6.0 wont start. it died driving up freeway. and never started back up.
I got it towed home, bought a scangauge II from autozone, I set it up so I can see ICP, FMP, IPR and few others.
The ICP and IPR i replaced with brand new ones from ford the day before I bought the scangauge.

WIth the scan gauge I get a reading of anywhere between 150 all way upto 450... I got way higher when I tried early in the morning when oil was thinker and and cold. but I did not have thing hooked up to where it would start, I was just cranking it.

So after about 5 days of reasearch I found how to figure out if HPOP is bad. However I am little scared I may have wrong understanding of the tests I did.
I pulled The ICP and hooked air up to the ICP port. about 130psi. I have a pigtail on the IPR and I apply 12v to it and it switches, I make sure the voltage is never applied for longer then 30sec like you guys say.
AIr test results:
With the IPR not closed (no 12v applied) I hear gurgling down by oil pan maybe, but not sure. I can hear it by taking the oil filter out. with the IPR CLosed (with 12v applied) I dont hear a leak most of the time. however sometimes it seems give little different results like depending on where the HPOP stopped at when I last cranked it.
Most of of the time with IPR closed I dont hear or feel leaks coming from the valve convers or anywhere else.
I pulled driver side valve cover to make sure no small leak but could not find one.

Here is my big question.... If the IPR is not closed (with no 12v applied) but has air feeding the ICP port do I care if I hear bubbling in the engine below oil filter.

I am trying make sure I need replace HPOP before I order one or take it all apart.
I am broke so parts need to be tested now... LOL

Brian
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 07:34 AM
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Have you tried starting with ICP unplugged? Any oil in the connector when you replaced it? Unplugging it forces the truck to use default 500. With the IPR closed, you should hear no air.
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
Have you tried starting with ICP unplugged? Any oil in the connector when you replaced it? Unplugging it forces the truck to use default 500. With the IPR closed, you should hear no air.
I just tried starting the truck with ICP unplugged, It would not start. I got no error codes except ICP circuit low which is because its unplugged. The scan gauge doesnt just report 500 on the icp it keeps showing real high numbers and all over the place, i assume thats because its unplugged and picking up noise or something.

Yes the connector was soaked in oil, the old ICP drained oil into it. I replaced the pig tail for the ICP. the new ICP connector and ICP still look clean.

With IPR closed I dont hear air, except few random times. But mostely never, those random times could have been related to my pig tail or how i was holding wires on the battery.
Does anyone Know If I should hear air bubbling in the engine below the Oil filter if I have air feeding the ICP port and have the IPR circuit open with no 12v applied, is that normal?

I really really would like to know for sure if something is wrong with the HPOP before I take it apart. Due to money issues.

Some more history on the truck:
It has almost always had a problem starting cold. takes alot to get it started in the morning. been like that for at least a year. I found by plugging the truck in at night on cold nights made it easier to start.
Few more notes the truck if parked with the front higher then the rear of the truck would make it even harder to start which seemed like fuel bowl was draining back or something. It would do that even if it was warm sometimes, if I had it parked like that for 30 min or so.

Weird thing
The FICM which is suppose to 48V seems to be going down and then back up while I try to start no matter if I have ICP unplugged or not.
I think I am gonna have to check out the FICM, anyone know the best place to find a procedure on checking that out.
I am not sure I am trusting the ScanGauge II at the moment. It keeps flickering and scrolling thru menus by its self. It acts as if maybe a button is stuck down, so i bang it against the steering wheel and it stops. once I get it to stop freaking out like that it seems to be giving good numbers. Not sure why the FICM "FMP" is changing from 48 to other lower numbers at random times. Wire harness issue??????? bad rectifier in the FICM????

Do these sound like that best next steps I should take:
- Check FICM out to see if its bad.... need find good proceedure on that...
- Take all the wrapping off the wire harness on the engine and check wires?
- Is there any other things I should monitor with the scangauge II after all the tests I did above.
- Got any ideas anyone.... I am starting to get so overwhelmed by this crap... LOL

Thanks Millwrightbrian
 
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Old 02-16-2015, 06:39 PM
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What is the FICM voltage dropping to? No codes on anything? Check the FICM by removing the cover, black to ground and red to the terminal... anything less than 45 it's toast.

Also check your RPM for the starter, needs 150 or more.
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
What is the FICM voltage dropping to? No codes on anything? Check the FICM by removing the cover, black to ground and red to the terminal... anything less than 45 it's toast.

Also check your RPM for the starter, needs 150 or more.
Sorry my truck was getting so much attention that my wife got jealous, never the less I had few distractions and havent got to check this yet.

I will check this out tmrw, hopefully FICM is ok... I wish I knew for sure if it was the pump or the d-oring on the pump output. I seemed hear some people talk about that.
Tearing into the 6.0 is gonna be a pita, I think i am gonna go ahead order tmrw morning.
Got any tips on a place that sells them for cheap but still good enough to last at least another 100,000miles

Knowing my luck I will buy some crap brand that requires replacing soon. LOL

Millwrightbrian
 
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Old 02-18-2015, 03:27 AM
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One more quick question is there a way to tell if I have the updated HPOP cover. My truck is a pre 9\2003 so I assume it had came with the old cover but I am not sure what the previous owner had updated or changed. I know they took real care of it and few other things have been updated.
Just curious if I can tell from looking at it if its updated. That way I can get one ordered and be here at same time as the pump.
I do have to do a updated cover, Right?
Millwirhgtbrian
 
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