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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Injector contribution code #3 buzz test fail on #7

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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 10:15 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
Good catch, I'll also add I don't see anywhere that the SP's or dummies were done.
I don't either so I will get them. If they have been replaced then I will sell the replacements off.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 10:38 AM
  #17  
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I’m starting to put the ficm on the radar for this one, maybe towards the logic side, buts it’s just a feel ... still could be injectors. I get worried at 47v on the output, but you haven’t mentioned the logic volts. Considering its when acquired electrical issues.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I’m starting to put the ficm on the radar for this one, maybe towards the logic side, buts it’s just a feel ... still could be injectors. I get worried at 47v on the output, but you haven’t mentioned the logic volts. Considering its when acquired electrical issues.
The LP holds at 13-14V but to be honest I don't monitor this a lot of the time. I may just order a FICM to be safe.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 12:35 PM
  #19  
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One thing I noticed is that TorquePro report P0269 as Cylinder #4 and FORScan reports P0269 as cylinder #3. I believe P0269 is cylinder #3 but can anyone confirm that for me?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 01:46 PM
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269 is cylinder 3.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:02 PM
  #21  
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Thanks for confirming. I didn't really question it until I was reviewing some screenshots and TorquePro showed it as #4.



 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:07 PM
  #22  
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Anyone have feedback on which FICMRepair "level" to get? I'm leaning toward the "Premium" (I was1 click away from making a purchase) but is the "Ultra" really worth another $100? I guess you get a lifetime warranty that way...
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 04:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Monster-4
Drove my 6.0 to town the other day and it started idling rough. Seems to be ok on a trip earlier that day and seem to start idling rough out of nowhere. Anyway I scanned it with TorquePro and it reported cylinder #3. Today I fired up FORScan, did a scan it it's showing cylinder #3 contribution code. I ran a buzz test and #7 seems to be sticking. See video. Seems fine when warm. I might as well replace both injectors while I am at it.

Cold Buzz
https://youtu.be/CYMJFPXktuA

Warm Buzz
https://youtu.be/QXqT0Vv2THs

Watched some videos by SrMasterTech and DieselTechRon. Any suggestion on tools to get the oil rail bolts out up against the heater box? Also an good links for bore cup brushes? Be the first time doing this on a 6.0 so any tips and tricks would be appreciated.
A combination of various length 3/8 drive extensions, a swivel, and black tape to keep things from coming apart, along with a 3/8' drive torx (forget the size) are what you need to get at #7.
It's tight but it's doable, don't let it scare you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNzOgs7c5NA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1FwAbXctDY
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 05:09 PM
  #24  
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The firing order is 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8, so I wonder if a problem on #7 might "bleed over" to falsely indicate a contribution issue w/ #3?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 06:38 PM
  #25  
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I can tell you for sure the truck is running a bit rough and idling a bit rough. It didn't so until I got a contribution code on #3. Although I am wondering if it may be worth buying and IDS clone to double check.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 06:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
A combination of various length 3/8 drive extensions, a swivel, and black tape to keep things from coming apart, along with a 3/8' drive torx (forget the size) are what you need to get at #7.
It's tight but it's doable, don't let it scare you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNzOgs7c5NA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1FwAbXctDY
Thanks. I watched the videos but worth watching again.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 08:31 PM
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When I did 5 (and when I pulled the motor) I removed the heater box cover to gain more room. It’s not that hard, you just have to hunt for all the screws.

With a 6.0 screwing around with anything other then IDS, is just screwing around. You just can’t get around testing injectors uncompensated.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 09:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
When I did 5 (and when I pulled the motor) I removed the heater box cover to gain more room. It’s not that hard, you just have to hunt for all the screws.

With a 6.0 screwing around with anything other then IDS, is just screwing around. You just can’t get around testing injectors uncompensated.
Priceless advice here Mike, combined with what Bismic said about "bleed over". I think you're getting some program compensation with the injectors chasing each other around like they are.
 
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Old May 1, 2018 | 06:14 AM
  #29  
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Ok you guys convinced me. I PMed Sean to see if he has any clones left before I go dumpster diving on Ebay.
 
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Old May 1, 2018 | 01:49 PM
  #30  
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Well I dropped $600 on a new FICM and relay. I went with the "Ultra". I figured I haven't went small or rational on the rest of the electrical system, why stop now. Still hurts dropping that much on something I can't say I really need. However, with all the electrical issues I had when I bought the truck and the fact it drops down to 47V sometimes on the highway I think it's best to put a known good component in and not worry about it.
 
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