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I’m starting to put the ficm on the radar for this one, maybe towards the logic side, buts it’s just a feel ... still could be injectors. I get worried at 47v on the output, but you haven’t mentioned the logic volts. Considering its when acquired electrical issues.
I’m starting to put the ficm on the radar for this one, maybe towards the logic side, buts it’s just a feel ... still could be injectors. I get worried at 47v on the output, but you haven’t mentioned the logic volts. Considering its when acquired electrical issues.
The LP holds at 13-14V but to be honest I don't monitor this a lot of the time. I may just order a FICM to be safe.
One thing I noticed is that TorquePro report P0269 as Cylinder #4 and FORScan reports P0269 as cylinder #3. I believe P0269 is cylinder #3 but can anyone confirm that for me?
Anyone have feedback on which FICMRepair "level" to get? I'm leaning toward the "Premium" (I was1 click away from making a purchase) but is the "Ultra" really worth another $100? I guess you get a lifetime warranty that way...
Drove my 6.0 to town the other day and it started idling rough. Seems to be ok on a trip earlier that day and seem to start idling rough out of nowhere. Anyway I scanned it with TorquePro and it reported cylinder #3. Today I fired up FORScan, did a scan it it's showing cylinder #3 contribution code. I ran a buzz test and #7 seems to be sticking. See video. Seems fine when warm. I might as well replace both injectors while I am at it.
Watched some videos by SrMasterTech and DieselTechRon. Any suggestion on tools to get the oil rail bolts out up against the heater box? Also an good links for bore cup brushes? Be the first time doing this on a 6.0 so any tips and tricks would be appreciated.
A combination of various length 3/8 drive extensions, a swivel, and black tape to keep things from coming apart, along with a 3/8' drive torx (forget the size) are what you need to get at #7.
It's tight but it's doable, don't let it scare you.
I can tell you for sure the truck is running a bit rough and idling a bit rough. It didn't so until I got a contribution code on #3. Although I am wondering if it may be worth buying and IDS clone to double check.
A combination of various length 3/8 drive extensions, a swivel, and black tape to keep things from coming apart, along with a 3/8' drive torx (forget the size) are what you need to get at #7.
It's tight but it's doable, don't let it scare you.
When I did 5 (and when I pulled the motor) I removed the heater box cover to gain more room. It’s not that hard, you just have to hunt for all the screws.
With a 6.0 screwing around with anything other then IDS, is just screwing around. You just can’t get around testing injectors uncompensated.
When I did 5 (and when I pulled the motor) I removed the heater box cover to gain more room. It’s not that hard, you just have to hunt for all the screws.
With a 6.0 screwing around with anything other then IDS, is just screwing around. You just can’t get around testing injectors uncompensated.
Priceless advice here Mike, combined with what Bismic said about "bleed over". I think you're getting some program compensation with the injectors chasing each other around like they are.
Well I dropped $600 on a new FICM and relay. I went with the "Ultra". I figured I haven't went small or rational on the rest of the electrical system, why stop now. Still hurts dropping that much on something I can't say I really need. However, with all the electrical issues I had when I bought the truck and the fact it drops down to 47V sometimes on the highway I think it's best to put a known good component in and not worry about it.
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