Injector contribution code #3 buzz test fail on #7
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
Now you have the new FICM on the way double check all your injector connectors and injector harness wiring then plug the new FICM in and see what happens and go from there. It could very well just be the FICM and now you can rule that out.
If you do replace injectors get the proper tools and go ahead and reseal that side of the HPO system and if you end up popping the valve cover on the other side I’d reseal it too. If you’re going to remove the nipple cups and rent or buy the nipple cup socket you might as well get the best and get the HHC nipple cup kit. I’m one of those crazy people that would rather replace everything while I’m in there than have to fool with it later. I learned the hard way about trying to just rebuild one bank of injectors and ended up wasting a bunch of time and money that could have gone towards a full set of new injectors. It’s the best thing I could have done.
I have to add this...buy an air nozzle with the long blower tip that you can use to bend and blow the oil out of each injector hold down hole so you get the correct torque. Read read read all you can before you dive in. Watch yourube videos from the good guys (Diesel Tech Ron and Makaluco) not any goofballs that will mislead you and cause you to screw up and waste time and money.
If you do replace injectors get the proper tools and go ahead and reseal that side of the HPO system and if you end up popping the valve cover on the other side I’d reseal it too. If you’re going to remove the nipple cups and rent or buy the nipple cup socket you might as well get the best and get the HHC nipple cup kit. I’m one of those crazy people that would rather replace everything while I’m in there than have to fool with it later. I learned the hard way about trying to just rebuild one bank of injectors and ended up wasting a bunch of time and money that could have gone towards a full set of new injectors. It’s the best thing I could have done.
I have to add this...buy an air nozzle with the long blower tip that you can use to bend and blow the oil out of each injector hold down hole so you get the correct torque. Read read read all you can before you dive in. Watch yourube videos from the good guys (Diesel Tech Ron and Makaluco) not any goofballs that will mislead you and cause you to screw up and waste time and money.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 18
From: Millersburg, OH
That's sort of my plan with the FICM. I have enough of a question about it to replace it. Once it's in I'll see what's what. I was pretty puckered up over spending that much but now I wish I would have spent a bit more and got the Atlas40 tune. Oh well.
I'll report back once I get the FICM in.
I'll report back once I get the FICM in.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 18
From: Millersburg, OH
The FICM has always been a concern of mine but really I don't have a real reason to condemn it other then it will drop to 47V at times.
I took the truck out for the first time since I got the contribution code on Saturday. Seemed to run fine. I stopped near home for a minute and let it idle and when I took off I was blowing smoke. Smells and looks to be fuel.
I took the truck out for the first time since I got the contribution code on Saturday. Seemed to run fine. I stopped near home for a minute and let it idle and when I took off I was blowing smoke. Smells and looks to be fuel.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 18
From: Millersburg, OH
The new FICM will be here today. IDS is ordered but won't be here for a bit yet. I ordered two injectors anyway along with stand pipes and dummy plugs. If the new FICM doesn't solve it (which I have a gut feeling it won't) I will replace #3 and #7. Once I get the IDS I will see what other injectors might be an issue. I need the truck up and running so I need to move forward without the IDS and hope the information I have it accurate.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 18
From: Millersburg, OH
Got the new FICM and relay in. Cleared the codes, started the truck up and let it idle and high idle for a few minutes. P0269 showed up again. Also I still saw flashes of 47.0V on the power side. I guess this is from the bad injector?
The injectors should be here tomorrow but I realized I forgot to order the bore brushes so I will have to wait for them to show before I can replace #3 and #7.
The injectors should be here tomorrow but I realized I forgot to order the bore brushes so I will have to wait for them to show before I can replace #3 and #7.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 18
From: Millersburg, OH
Got all the bolts and studs out of the odd side valve cover tonight. Was actually easier than I was expecting.
Worst thing was the trans dipstick bolt. The stud was pretty rusty. I had the work the bolt up and down. I was afraid of snapping the stud otherwise. I also don't know how DieselTechRon (RIP) and other guys like him get a rachet on that bolt. I had to use a rachet wrench.
Only dumb thing I did was not cover the battery terminal and I managed to bump my rachet against it taking out the top front stud out. Made a nice spark. Wasn't one of my prouder moments.
I'll need to go tool searching tomorrow. Can't find my long shank torxs bits. Searched for half a hour and gave up. I still need to get some shallow bits anyway so might as well add another set of long shanks. I'll probably find the missing set the day after I get everything put back together.
Worst thing was the trans dipstick bolt. The stud was pretty rusty. I had the work the bolt up and down. I was afraid of snapping the stud otherwise. I also don't know how DieselTechRon (RIP) and other guys like him get a rachet on that bolt. I had to use a rachet wrench.
Only dumb thing I did was not cover the battery terminal and I managed to bump my rachet against it taking out the top front stud out. Made a nice spark. Wasn't one of my prouder moments.
I'll need to go tool searching tomorrow. Can't find my long shank torxs bits. Searched for half a hour and gave up. I still need to get some shallow bits anyway so might as well add another set of long shanks. I'll probably find the missing set the day after I get everything put back together.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
When I’m doing major engine work both batteries come completely out to avoid arcing. I used a long shank T40 Torx bit with a 3/8” drive that came in a set of three (T40, T45 and T50) for brake caliper work. $9 at O’Reilley’s and it never broke or stripped after removing and installing injectors about 4-5 times. A 12mm flex ratchet is your best friend on that passenger side valve cover removal and a box end 8mm for the oil rail bolts that are closest to the air box. What a PITA. Another great set of tools to do it right are a telescopic and adjustable inspection mirror, small LED flashlight and a good flexible air nozzle that you can bend to get into the injector hold down bolt holes to blow the oil out before reinstalling the hold downs and torquing down. Instead of using a bore scope I held the little light in my mouth, shined it at the inspection mirror so I could see how clean the injector cups and injector hold down holes were. This is very critical for the injectors to be torqued correctly and the hold down holes and cups are clean! If you leave oil in the hold down threaded hole you will torque the bolt down and it will not truly seat and back out later causing severe motor issues when the copper crush washer loses seal between the cup and combustion chamber.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 18
From: Millersburg, OH
When I’m doing major engine work both batteries come completely out to avoid arcing. I used a long shank T40 Torx bit with a 3/8” drive that came in a set of three (T40, T45 and T50) for brake caliper work. $9 at O’Reilley’s and it never broke or stripped after removing and installing injectors about 4-5 times. A 12mm flex ratchet is your best friend on that passenger side valve cover removal and a box end 8mm for the oil rail bolts that are closest to the air box. What a PITA. Another great set of tools to do it right are a telescopic and adjustable inspection mirror, small LED flashlight and a good flexible air nozzle that you can bend to get into the injector hold down bolt holes to blow the oil out before reinstalling the hold downs and torquing down. Instead of using a bore scope I held the little light in my mouth, shined it at the inspection mirror so I could see how clean the injector cups and injector hold down holes were. This is very critical for the injectors to be torqued correctly and the hold down holes and cups are clean! If you leave oil in the hold down threaded hole you will torque the bolt down and it will not truly seat and back out later causing severe motor issues when the copper crush washer loses seal between the cup and combustion chamber.
I got everything broke loose. I got the dummy plug out but had to use an 18" long 1/2" breaker bar on the stand pipe to break it loose. For the bottom back two fuel rail bolts I improvised a tool. I haven't been able to find a stubby 1/4" socket yet. Pic below. I'll have to find some stubby torx sockets as I doubt this will be effective for installation.
Question. Does anyone actually torque the bottom back two fuel rail bolts on the passenger side? I don't even know of a 1/4" torque wrench that can go 20 ft-lb and I don't think there is anyway a 3/8" torque wrench will get in there.
Also I am glad I bought an updated dummy plug and stand pipe set. The dummy plug was starting to go.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
Your not missing anything, the other guy has an early build and they use a bolt that takes an 8mm, it's a totally different oil rail from yours.
As far as the torque spec in concerned, I don't recall not being able to not get those two done. It's tight but should fit.
That being said, if you can't reach them then just go by feel. You are not compressing a gasket, it's metal on metal. If you can get things done this far then you will know about what 20 lbs is......it's been done before (wink wink)
As far as the torque spec in concerned, I don't recall not being able to not get those two done. It's tight but should fit.
That being said, if you can't reach them then just go by feel. You are not compressing a gasket, it's metal on metal. If you can get things done this far then you will know about what 20 lbs is......it's been done before (wink wink)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 9
From: South Alabama
I want to say my hold downs on the 06 and 07 are torx 45. Not positive cause I can’t remember
But i used the same setup as SmackDaddy 4” long torx (could be 3”) and 3/8 torque wrench. And on that 12mm flex wrench make sure its a stubby. Good luck, fairly easy job. 
But i used the same setup as SmackDaddy 4” long torx (could be 3”) and 3/8 torque wrench. And on that 12mm flex wrench make sure its a stubby. Good luck, fairly easy job.