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So it looks like I’m changing gears on this, my injector pulse width is very high like 3.03 sometimes and used to never go over 2.4 . I’m guessing either my HPOP, ICP or IPR is screwed, any insight on what to check now, I rebuilt my HPOP last year for leaks and it was good up until now I guess.
Well, in order for us to help you diagnose this, we need more logged info from a WOT or close to it run: RPM's, ICP, IPRDC, MFD, MPH, BOOST, EBP, etc with approximate EGT's thrown in from time to time since you can''t log them with anything that I know of.
3.03 ms FIPW is not that bad considering that some tuners write tunes that exceed 4-4.5 ms on a regular basis. Who wrote the tunes?
Well, in order for us to help you diagnose this, we need more logged info from a WOT or close to it run: RPM's, ICP, IPRDC, MPH, BOOST, EBP, etc with approximate EGT's thrown in from time to time since you can''t log them with anything that I know of.
3.03 ms FIPW is not that bad considering that some tuners write tunes that exceed 4-4.5 ms on a regular basis. Who wrote the tunes?
I have tunes from Brian Jelich, I have 180/30 injectors and a D66 turbo, I can do a data run tomorrow and possibly try to get it uploaded too with my edge. But yeah when I’m in the race tune the injector pulse width jumps even with a small step on the skinny pedal, EGTs are much better in lighter tunes so I’m guessing it’s down to something non boost/exhaust leak related
I was about to ask why we were all over the boost numbers when it was an exhaust component that was replaced? You even mentioned suspicion of the EBPV, but no EBP numbers are provided to mate up with the boost numbers.
A full spread of PIDs will help to evaluate the performance of the truck, now that you allegedly have full air. Maybe your tune was pulling back on the reigns when it sensed low air numbers, but now it's spurring all the ponies since they can breathe. That's what Cody did for me... because it protects the engine in the event of an air leak. It's these little extras that separate the caliber of the tuners.
I was about to ask why we were all over the boost numbers when it was an exhaust component that was replaced? You even mentioned suspicion of the EBPV, but no EBP numbers are provided to mate up with the boost numbers.
A full spread of PIDs will help to evaluate the performance of the truck, now that you allegedly have full air. Maybe your tune was pulling back on the reigns when it sensed low air numbers, but now it's spurring all the ponies since they can breathe. That's what Cody did for me... because it protects the engine in the event of an air leak. It's these little extras that separate the caliber of the tuners.
Very true statement. I can't believe how good my truck runs with Cody's tunes. It ran great stock, but after he tuned it, wow.
I was about to ask why we were all over the boost numbers when it was an exhaust component that was replaced? You even mentioned suspicion of the EBPV, but no EBP numbers are provided to mate up with the boost numbers.
A full spread of PIDs will help to evaluate the performance of the truck, now that you allegedly have full air. Maybe your tune was pulling back on the reigns when it sensed low air numbers, but now it's spurring all the ponies since they can breathe. That's what Cody did for me... because it protects the engine in the event of an air leak. It's these little extras that separate the caliber of the tuners.
In the second video your readings seem to be more of where they should be, but I would think that you should be seeing more boost. Although, you are running larger single shot injectors with a D66 turbo which is really a hybrid between GTP38 and GTP38R.
In the second video your readings seem to be more of where they should be, but I would think that you should be seeing more boost. Although, you are running larger single shot injectors with a D66 turbo which is really a hybrid between GTP38 and GTP38R.
Where did you mount the EGT probe?
Mounted in the driver side manifold. Adjusted up pipes, EGTs hit 1000 degrees now unloaded in the race tune and I hit 35lbs of boost easy.
I see the problem. You're used to babying the throttle and you've never seen an actual volcano on the gauge, where many of us have the opposite experience. I had one situation where the EGTs jumped over 1500 degrees F, and redline is 1250 degrees.
Let me go over that last statement. EGT redline is 1250 degrees, and going over that is not an issue - sustaining over 1250 degrees is an issue, because heat soak is the enemy. It takes a while for metal to build enough heat to melt. Worrying about 1000 degrees is akin to saying "Oh my gawd, my tach hits 2600 RPM now".
I see the problem. You're used to babying the throttle and you've never seen an actual volcano on the gauge, where many of us have the opposite experience. I had one situation where the EGTs jumped over 1500 degrees F, and redline is 1250 degrees.
Let me go over that last statement. EGT redline is 1250 degrees, and going over that is not an issue - sustaining over 1250 degrees is an issue, because heat soak is the enemy. It takes a while for metal to build enough heat to melt. Worrying about 1000 degrees is akin to saying "Oh my gawd, my tach hits 2600 RPM now".
So me towing my 6500lb boat and trailer and at those EGTs is normal? I drive up a short but high grade hill and can only use 2nd gear (3rd gear) in my truck cause I’ll hit 800 in 2nd
So me towing my 6500lb boat and trailer and at those EGTs is normal? I drive up a short but high grade hill and can only use 2nd gear (3rd gear) in my truck cause I’ll hit 800 in 2nd
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