Complete Interior Removal for Stereo
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Senior User
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That's a little secret at the moment. Heading to nationals hopefully with this truck so we are keeping exact details quiet for now. When we are done I will post exactly what we are doing and why.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2018
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From: Fairbanks, AK
Looking forward to following this project and seeing the final details once you can release them. Looks like an insane amount of work but I bet it sure will sound good.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5,650
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From: GA
If so and in an earlier post, I asked him about the mid bass going in the doors and the problem with the molex and he said that was the worse place for them so more than likely he`ll put them in the kick panel with some outside venting but maybe not.
Very nice build he has going and I can`t wait to see the results.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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is there a difference between woofer and "mid bass"? Yeah I saw his reply and I was reserving my comment until I crawled under my own dash and then I saw the picture of the entire heater core. I don't know where the volume is coming from unless you start to remove passenger foot space. Either that or start cutting holes in the floor.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3,674
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From: SoCal
No, none at all. Maybe Midrange and Midbass....but semantics at best.
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E.hahn...in the sound quality world bass is divided into three main areas:
0 - 80Hz: Lower-bass / sub-bass range
80 - 150Hz: Mid-bass
150 - 250Hz Upper-bass
The challenge with most stereos is people install a 6" speaker in their door, tweeter in the a-pillars and a sub in the back. With three different ranges of bass to be played by the sub and the 6" those speakers get almost overworked. This causes your male vocals to bleed off and not be nearly as smooth and clear. So in a perfect system you would want something in between the 6" and the sub. This is where your mid-range 7" and 8" subs do a great job. With a DSP I can make sure almost all male vocals are covered by one set of speakers. This leaves the 6" to play the higher bass and the sub to only play the lower bass. A system can sound good without the mid-range add on but you are always going to struggle getting it "perfect".
0 - 80Hz: Lower-bass / sub-bass range
80 - 150Hz: Mid-bass
150 - 250Hz Upper-bass
The challenge with most stereos is people install a 6" speaker in their door, tweeter in the a-pillars and a sub in the back. With three different ranges of bass to be played by the sub and the 6" those speakers get almost overworked. This causes your male vocals to bleed off and not be nearly as smooth and clear. So in a perfect system you would want something in between the 6" and the sub. This is where your mid-range 7" and 8" subs do a great job. With a DSP I can make sure almost all male vocals are covered by one set of speakers. This leaves the 6" to play the higher bass and the sub to only play the lower bass. A system can sound good without the mid-range add on but you are always going to struggle getting it "perfect".
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Joined: Oct 2007
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E.hahn...in the sound quality world bass is divided into three main areas:
0 - 80Hz: Lower-bass / sub-bass range
80 - 150Hz: Mid-bass
150 - 250Hz Upper-bass
The challenge with most stereos is people install a 6" speaker in their door, tweeter in the a-pillars and a sub in the back. With three different ranges of bass to be played by the sub and the 6" those speakers get almost overworked. This causes your male vocals to bleed off and not be nearly as smooth and clear. So in a perfect system you would want something in between the 6" and the sub. This is where your mid-range 7" and 8" subs do a great job. With a DSP I can make sure almost all male vocals are covered by one set of speakers. This leaves the 6" to play the higher bass and the sub to only play the lower bass. A system can sound good without the mid-range add on but you are always going to struggle getting it "perfect".
0 - 80Hz: Lower-bass / sub-bass range
80 - 150Hz: Mid-bass
150 - 250Hz Upper-bass
The challenge with most stereos is people install a 6" speaker in their door, tweeter in the a-pillars and a sub in the back. With three different ranges of bass to be played by the sub and the 6" those speakers get almost overworked. This causes your male vocals to bleed off and not be nearly as smooth and clear. So in a perfect system you would want something in between the 6" and the sub. This is where your mid-range 7" and 8" subs do a great job. With a DSP I can make sure almost all male vocals are covered by one set of speakers. This leaves the 6" to play the higher bass and the sub to only play the lower bass. A system can sound good without the mid-range add on but you are always going to struggle getting it "perfect".
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Are you speaking of the dash? If so there are a total of 14. 3 on the left, 3 on the right, 2 up under the front drivers side area, 1 on the front passenger side area, 2 on each side of the transmission tunnel and one pesky one hooked on the front of the heater box.
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Joined: Feb 2017
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Are you speaking of the dash? If so there are a total of 14. 3 on the left, 3 on the right, 2 up under the front drivers side area, 1 on the front passenger side area, 2 on each side of the transmission tunnel and one pesky one hooked on the front of the heater box.
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Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Canada
Digging up an older thread but it’s the most relevant one I could find.. I just ordered a 19 XLT CCLB w/ Sync3. Before it shows up I plan on having the basic upgrades here and waiting for it, audio included in that.
I was wondering if you guys could suggest to me what would be a good package to put together to retain the stock HU, but replace the speakers and also add a sub (or two) behind the rear seat. I’ve seen this VSS kit from Kicker but it appears to only be for trucks that have a factory sub/amp which I’m pretty positive my truck does not.
I don’t mind spending decent $ for quality but I’m not a audiophile by no means, I just enjoy rocking out every now and again.
I was wondering if you guys could suggest to me what would be a good package to put together to retain the stock HU, but replace the speakers and also add a sub (or two) behind the rear seat. I’ve seen this VSS kit from Kicker but it appears to only be for trucks that have a factory sub/amp which I’m pretty positive my truck does not.
I don’t mind spending decent $ for quality but I’m not a audiophile by no means, I just enjoy rocking out every now and again.
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 259
Likes: 2
Digging up an older thread but it’s the most relevant one I could find.. I just ordered a 19 XLT CCLB w/ Sync3. Before it shows up I plan on having the basic upgrades here and waiting for it, audio included in that.
I was wondering if you guys could suggest to me what would be a good package to put together to retain the stock HU, but replace the speakers and also add a sub (or two) behind the rear seat. I’ve seen this VSS kit from Kicker but it appears to only be for trucks that have a factory sub/amp which I’m pretty positive my truck does not.
I don’t mind spending decent $ for quality but I’m not a audiophile by no means, I just enjoy rocking out every now and again.
I was wondering if you guys could suggest to me what would be a good package to put together to retain the stock HU, but replace the speakers and also add a sub (or two) behind the rear seat. I’ve seen this VSS kit from Kicker but it appears to only be for trucks that have a factory sub/amp which I’m pretty positive my truck does not.
I don’t mind spending decent $ for quality but I’m not a audiophile by no means, I just enjoy rocking out every now and again.
kept head unit- switched door speakers to Hertz Milli Pro 3 way and coxials. Back of cab has 2 Jdl w3 10” subs. 1 amp is a hertz 5 channel. Never have turned it up enough to get distortion. Supposedly the Hertz line loves power. Anything you listen to will sound great