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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 04:37 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Bowtech32
I stoled this idea from somebody here, can't remember who. But thank you for posting it!!!! So i made me one, best thing ever. Pole to reach everything that slides to the front. Best of all did cost me a dime, had everything laying around in my shop.

Haha, you're welcome!

 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 05:07 AM
  #122  
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Years ago my dad made something similar for his truck using an old broom handle and L bracket. Our son called it a grandpap stick! My tonneau cover came with one as a bonus, and we still call it a grandpap stick! Very useful.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 07:25 AM
  #123  
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From: SW VA
Originally Posted by danr1707
It's been a while since I did it, but I found this on another thread:

Locate YELLOW/GREEN pull through wire. Cut off the cap and strip back enough to solder. Solder YELLOW/GREEN wire DIRECTLY to the AUX switch wire you want to use.

Locate PTO_RPM wire (Solid GREEN). Cut off the cap and strip back enough to solder.

Locate PTO_REF wire (WHITE w/ BROWN STRIPE) DO NOT use the BROWN w/ WHITE STRIPE wire!!! Cut off the cap and strip back enough to solder.

For FIXED idle:
Solder the resistor that you have chosen to PTO_RPM wire (Solid GREEN) and PTO_REF wire (WHITE w/ BROWN STRIPE). i.e. If you want a 1200 RPM (minimum suggested by Ford) you would use a 20K Ohm resistor.
Dumb question, but will this work with a 6.2L gasser?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 04:43 PM
  #124  
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I bought the Homelink module on eBay for $20 shipped. Took about an hour to cut the hole in the panel and wire it in. Works great! I need to get the darker grey faceplate, but very happy with the way it turned out.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2018 | 09:40 PM
  #125  
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Cost about 22 bucks for all the materials, minus the soldering iron and tools. Plugs into the factory puddle light connectors on the frame. The flickering is just the camera frame rate/sync not lining up

 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 10:55 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by briangp
Cost about 22 bucks for all the materials, minus the soldering iron and tools. Plugs into the factory puddle light connectors on the frame. The flickering is just the camera frame rate/sync not lining up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFN0wlL9xKU
is this the plug for the running board lights?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 11:24 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by briangp
Cost about 22 bucks for all the materials, minus the soldering iron and tools. Plugs into the factory puddle light connectors on the frame. The flickering is just the camera frame rate/sync not lining up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFN0wlL9xKU
What do you mean solder iron and tools?

Can you just use adhesive?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 01:08 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Gwilkrrs
is this the plug for the running board lights?
yep!

Originally Posted by dksmith17
What do you mean solder iron and tools?

Can you just use adhesive?
I solder all my wiring. I used the led strips you cut every couple inches. Solder them all together and used heat shrink. I ended up diking the plugs and soldering it in for now, but I will need to install some quick disconnects or buy the other end of the plug at some point if the cab ever needs removal.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 02:42 PM
  #129  
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I added some ambient lighting for about $1.30 lol. I missed this feature from my Audi S6 and Tundra. It looks super bright in the pics, but you honestly can't tell its there unless you are looking for it, or are looking for something in one of the cubby's in the console. Exactly how it should be.



 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 02:45 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Tricon
I added some ambient lighting for about $1.30 lol. I missed this feature from my Audi S6 and Tundra. It looks super bright in the pics, but you honestly can't tell its there unless you are looking for it, or are looking for something in one of the cubby's in the console. Exactly how it should be.


Saw your post earlier. Looks good! What circuit did you tie it to?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 04:07 PM
  #131  
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it works great. easy to take out and slide
 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 11:07 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by briangp
yep!



I solder all my wiring. I used the led strips you cut every couple inches. Solder them all together and used heat shrink. I ended up diking the plugs and soldering it in for now, but I will need to install some quick disconnects or buy the other end of the plug at some point if the cab ever needs removal.
can you post any pics of the work?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 12:30 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by briangp
Saw your post earlier. Looks good! What circuit did you tie it to?
I tied into the PTO wire on the passenger kick panel. Its orange and green if I remember correctly. Its always on with the ignition. I ran out of time trying to source a power point for lights on action, but I honestly don't even notice it until the sun sets. I'll find a source this weekend if I have time.

Just remember if you use a loose LED, you need to put some resistance on the cathode side so you don't prematurely burn them out. I think I used a 480 ohm, youll need to figure it out based on the forward voltage of the specific LED you use.....OR, just buy a pre-wired 12v LED and you dont have to worry about any of that.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 08:21 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Tricon
I added some ambient lighting for about $1.30 lol. I missed this feature from my Audi S6 and Tundra. It looks super bright in the pics, but you honestly can't tell its there unless you are looking for it, or are looking for something in one of the cubby's in the console. Exactly how it should be.



How do you remove the overhead console from the headliner?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 08:55 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by mmuglia
How do you remove the overhead console from the headliner?
Just pull on it. You can see the tabs here, one good yanktank it'll start.
 
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