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I disagree with that, I have auto lockers in the rear of all 3 of my vehicles and they do great on the pavement. However a truetrac is a good choice if you don't need a full locker.
I had one in my Nissan and I couldn't turn the steering wheel and press the gas while going slow at the same time without tires chirping and loud banging engagement/disengagement. I would never buy one again. That was a 4,600 lb vehicle though. It was a slip and slide on snowy pavement too. It was great off-road! Not worth it for my driving though.
Lets see, I’ve had front and rear ARBs in current Ex for 10 years, my f250 before that for 8 years.
i have run them in every wheeler I have had for the last 20 years including winning the Baja 1000 3 times with them.
I have yet to be left stranded by a seal and the only maintaince I have done is clean the compressor air filter we added on the race car. Then again the race car gets completely disassembled after a race and maintained so it added maybe 5 minutes to a 60 hour task.
so I have to ask, what maintaince have you had to do to your ARB ?
In my experience, in dry-*** Colorado/Arizona, you need to replace seals at the pumpkin every 3-4 years, and that you won't know they are bad until you get stuck somewhere and try to engage the locker.... I'm not saying they are a bad product, just that they seriously lack simplicity.. I'm not running the Baja 1000 and neither is the OP. Not bashing ARB's products just saying their air locker system is overpriced, overly complex and overkill for anyone who doesn't spend every weekend off roading and a day per week maintaining/cleaning/testing components.
The Truetrac was my choice. No wiring, no fuses, no compressor, no air lines, no seals, no clutch packs... no fuss. It works every time. It's an F250... not the best choice for off-roading to begin with! But if you're stuck in a field, or on a beach... it will lock when you need it to.
I had one in my Nissan and I couldn't turn the steering wheel and press the gas while going slow at the same time without tires chirping and loud banging engagement/disengagement. I would never buy one again. That was a 4,600 lb vehicle though. It was a slip and slide on snowy pavement too. It was great off-road! Not worth it for my driving though.
Sounds like it was installed wrong to me. I put one in a Ford ranger and never had any problems. That being said I never locked it on dry pavement and tried to turn. You can't expect that to work well.
Sounds like it was installed wrong to me. I put one in a Ford ranger and never had any problems. That being said I never locked it on dry pavement and tried to turn. You can't expect that to work well.
The locking mechanism is not selectable on a Detroit Locker, it's automatic and it's fairly unpredictable on pavement.
When I say turning at full lock I am referring to the steering wheel. For example: I could not do a u-turn without it auto-locking and binding the tires, even with zero throttle. It was installed just fine and locked as it should, worked for 40,000 miles before I sold the truck.
The locking mechanism is not selectable on a Detroit Locker, it's automatic and it's fairly unpredictable on pavement.
When I say turning at full lock I am referring to the steering wheel. For example: I could not do a u-turn without it auto-locking and binding the tires, even with zero throttle. It was installed just fine and locked as it should, worked for 40,000 miles before I sold the truck.
I mis-read what you wrote. I thought you had an ARB. Disregard...
I had one in my Nissan and I couldn't turn the steering wheel and press the gas while going slow at the same time without tires chirping and loud banging engagement/disengagement. I would never buy one again. That was a 4,600 lb vehicle though. It was a slip and slide on snowy pavement too. It was great off-road! Not worth it for my driving though.
Originally Posted by JT250
Sounds like it was installed wrong to me. I put one in a Ford ranger and never had any problems. That being said I never locked it on dry pavement and tried to turn. You can't expect that to work well.
Originally Posted by beef ****
The locking mechanism is not selectable on a Detroit Locker, it's automatic and it's fairly unpredictable on pavement.
When I say turning at full lock I am referring to the steering wheel. For example: I could not do a u-turn without it auto-locking and binding the tires, even with zero throttle. It was installed just fine and locked as it should, worked for 40,000 miles before I sold the truck.
Originally Posted by JT250
I mis-read what you wrote. I thought you had an ARB. Disregard...
Originally Posted by 00t444e
I have no issues turning on pavement with my Detroit locker, it unlocks like it should.
(just playing with the multi quote)
Before I bought my Detroit Locker I did a ton of research. Seemed to me the the majority of users that did not like how it behaved on the street were light short wheelbase trucks and jeeps. I am very happy with mine. It just works. I even survived driving it last winter in the snow, rain, ice, and slush. And by that I mean none of the "bad" things happened to me that you hear about. Granted I drive with a little common sense but will slide around a snowy corner for fun. In my opinion it was much better than the open diff before and overall more capable than my old 4x4.
Yes I have said this many times. I just feel it is one of the best decisions I have made on my truck.
Is there a specific model # for the Detroit? My LSD has never worked properly. As far as install goes can you just unbolt the ring gear, match the shims on the bearings and install, or do you have to mess with the pinion as well?
Is there a specific model # for the Detroit? My LSD has never worked properly. As far as install goes can you just unbolt the ring gear, match the shims on the bearings and install, or do you have to mess with the pinion as well?
Is there a specific model # for the Detroit? My LSD has never worked properly. As far as install goes can you just unbolt the ring gear, match the shims on the bearings and install, or do you have to mess with the pinion as well?
They only make one that fits all model years of the Ford 10.25/10.5. No you don't have to mess with the pinion if you just changing carriers, you just have to measure backlash before you remove the carrier then set it the same when you install the locker.
They only make one that fits all model years of the Ford 10.25/10.5. No you don't have to mess with the pinion if you just changing carriers, you just have to measure backlash before you remove the carrier then set it the same when you install the locker.