I forgot to appologize for my ignorance on the valve readings on the previous post...obviously comming from the fact the stupid thing is unplugged. Ive been having a hard time and no wheels has made me overlook some obvious things....obviously

 

P0472 means that the EBP sensor is possibly bad internally. Also, if you had the P0405 before the EGR valve was unplugged, then it may be bad internally as well.

That said, I would focus the troubleshooting on the cylinder contribution codes for now (btw you have a typo - P0269 is injector 3).

It may come down to needing an injector or two, but there are some things to check first that might be a cheaper fix.

So maybe you are experiencing some stiction. What oil are you using and how many miles since your last oil change? Hopefully you are using OEM oil and fuel filters. Have you ever used an oil additive for stiction (I like Archoil 9100 the best)?

Are your batteries strong (make sure they are fully charged and I like to have them load tested before troubleshooting)? Do you know if your FICM healthy?

What are your FICM voltages (need 2 sets of readings - cold engine readings, then hot engine readings). Post FICM MPower, LPower, and VPower:

KOEO
cranking
2000 rpm

 

Oil change and all filters replaced today. 5w40 lucas sythetic and quaker filter and i dont remember the fuel filters. No oil additives. Have not done a load test on batteries yet. Main one is brand new from Napa and secondary Im told is new from november.
Fcim at crank is same as at koeo and cold( might have dropped a bit but torque did not show any change during crank)
L 12v
M 48.5v
V power 12v

@2000rpm
L 13.5v
M 48.5v
V power 13.5v

@op temp
L12-12.5v
M 48.5v
V power 12-12.5v

Injectors were brought up twice today so I put some seafoam in with the fuel filter when I got home to try cleaning to no avail. Another thing that was brought up is a possible exaust clog in the cat? I was told there should be more smoke comming from the exaust pipe then there is....I had initially ruled out injector due to lack of smoke😑. No obvious leaks comming from elswhere that I can see. I scanned again when truck was failing and only get the pending 266 403 and 405. Mechanics scanner didnt see what torque did which is odd imo. So the 2nd injector is still comming up anyways and it didnt really cross my mind to be a prob. I assumed it came up because of an emmission system prob. Although I have no codes and have ref power and ground to the icp/ipr should i look at them next? Would they fail without a code? And wouldnt the truck have a hard time starting? I dont have a prob with start up at all. Dont remember what icp was at at 2000rpm but at about 660 idle it sits around 500-550 psi. I think i seen it up in the 800s at 2000 but i have to dbl check. Didnt have the ipr gauge set up. Ill check its reading tomorrow first thing
The previous ebp code was me forgetting to plug the sensor back in after checking the plug btw<<<<dummy

 

Highly recommend NOT using any filters other than the OEM filters. Lots of reasons why - easy to search. The Quaker State oil filter may have come with its own cap. If it did AND if you go back to OEM filters, then you will possibly have to buy a new OEM cap.

Is the synthetic Lucas 5W40 synthetic oil REALLY $46 a gallon? If so, you can do a whole lot better (on oil and on price). JMHO.

What oil WERE you using. I am trying to assess whether or not you might have some injector stiction issues. If it was previously a 15W40, then in a cold climate you have a high likelihood of having stiction issues.

I didn't see your oil change practices posted (intervals).

I think you need to consider using an additive. The additive for injector stiction is an oil additive, not a fuel additive.

Lastly, if VPower at idle is only 12.5v, then your alternator is weak. Similarly, I have a hard time believing that VPower is 12v when cranking. The system voltage drops more than that due to the glow plugs and the starter draw.

 

Hey Bismic. Oil changes or previous oil type I cant say. Truck is my cousins on loan to me. I was told to change the oil at 324 and some odd clicks and I have now done it a quite abit km early..almost 1000 i think. I would guess the truck being from Edmonton alberta he also used a 5w40 synthetic due to temps up there. He is a heavy duty diesel mechanic but apparently i have driven it the most since he bought it and is about a 6hr drive away so no help. I doubt he had 15w40 in the thing...silly for our canadian climate. The lucas was about 38 bucks for just over a gallon...all I had access to without driving 5km in a truck that wont go. Lucky me the parts store is around the corner. All filters were pretty bunged up. The quaker didnot come with a new cap. Oem cap is still in place. I will look for a stiction additive as well as advised.
as far as voltage reading, thats what torque is telling me. I will reinstall the app and dbl check the readings in the morning. Im assumming you are along the lines here that the fcim isnt sending the proper signals for the engine to run due to lack of power?
updated are the icp and ipr readings.
at op temp and 2000rpm icp states 1345ish psi and a 42.5%ish ipr...now....fun fun. I noticed when i first did this for the fcim volt readings and thought i slipped off the pedal but the engine for sure when trying to hold a steady 2000rpm is audibly missing and dropping immediately about 4-500rpm then slowly comes back upto 2000. Torque is saying no cylinders are misfiring. Is this my bad injector sign?

 

Yes, it seems to require higher rpms to get the alternator to raise system voltage to the "healthy" state of 13.5 volts (vs 12 - 12.5 volts).

Not absolutely sure about the cause of the low contribution code. So many things can cause it. It looks like your high pressure oil system is reasonably ok (I don;t think 2000 rpms cruising at 1345 psig and 42.5% IPR is bad).

I wonder about fuel pressure as well as the system voltage and stiction.

 

Ok. I'll double check the fuel pressure...I can't remember for the life of me what it was reading. I dont have a manual gauge so we'll be going off the app again on that for now. I will also take a volt meter out in the morning to double check batts and lookup how to read the alt power. If I put a stiction additive in the oil how long does it take to work? Is there a specific heavy duty type cleaner I can put in?
It just seems to me because of the consistency this must be electrical or sensor based. I just cant find where. Its even more of a **** off that there are no more codes than what I have. I had a mechanic scan it and absolutely nothing came up for him on his much more handy capable( also expensive) one but torque still shows those 3 codes. Ill pull the air box and double check the harness below aswell. Have an ect sensor sitting here so I might aswell toss it in while I have the space opened up.(both sensors read 176F even at op temp...Ill just replace one cause i have it on hand) While I have you, do you know of any good Ford specific apps for the Elm? Maybe I can luck out on a 6.0 special code, lol. Like the devil is residing in your engine bay code xD
Thanks again for your help. I really need the troubleshooting help. Hand me wrench and Ill fix it no problem....ask me to find the initial problem outside of an audible mechanical noise....lost

 

Nm on the stiction question. I found the post in the tech thread

 

Don't put any Seafoam in the fuel or the oil. That is just asking for it.

 

Well too late for that. I added some to the 2nd filter for a go in hopes of cleaning some crap out of the injectors. Although that was after having 2 mechanics say it was a dirty injector. With no smoke...I'm getting more into this stiction issue...which is new to me but makes sense now that I understand how the injectors work in a 6.0 much better.
Regardless whats the go on the seafoam, out of curiousity?

 

Btw I would like to add, it's gotten between -4F to -22F here for the time I've had to trouble shoot and the exaust did look almost like white smoke but now it was 46F today and I can definately ascertain (because I was paying attention) it was not smoke and just condensation from the cold. When I picked it up from Edmonton back in late Nov temps there were around -25F and it "smogged" the same with no running issues.

 

FYI - I have several scan tools, and the best for reading codes is Forscan. I am using a BAFX Elm 327 WiFi adapter with my i-phone.

I also have Torque Pro w/ a bluetooth ELM 327 adapter and an Android tablet, a ScangaugeII, and an old DashDaq unit.

 

Awesome sauce. I heard Forscan is good but Id be on android with the bluetooth Elm 327. Ill get it now I have a realtime review. Torque came with the Elm aswell as obddoc....just went with torque cause ppl seem to swear by it for backyard diognostics. I know its not a pro tool but it does help. Ill try the forscan for the codes but its just weird that my $30 purchase is seeing stuff that the pros aren't

 

Seafoam will break things loos that you don't want in the injectors
on both sides. So any crap in the oil system will end up in the injectors.
As far as the fuel system goes more or less the same. All it really is
happens to be an excessively aggressive solvent. And with the 6.0L you
have a large amount of carry over oil at each change that will hold that
solvent and the crap in it. Also with solvent in the engine oil it can cause
leaks at sealing gaskets.

 

I second frorscan. I just downloaded it on Monday and received my elm Bluetooth adapter from amazon on Sunday. I also bought a USB elm adapter just in case because In my experience Bluetooth doesn't always play nice. In this case it does. Anyway, forscan is free and seems to be just a step or 2 down from the Ford dealership diagnostic tool.

On to the problem, I'm also dealing with a cyl. Contribution problem on#5. I'm confident my problem is a failed injector so waiting on parts. Here's what I'm reading from your post, you have 3 cylinders failing, and exhaust related problems. So, failed egr valve or failed wiring harness/plug could be the 403/405 code. The ebp sensor could be faulty as someone said before for the 401 (i think). The exhaust back pressure (ebp) sensor is what reads the exhaust pressure to know how much to open the EGR (exhaust gas regurgitator (lol that's not its name, that's what I call it)) to send exhaust gas back into the intake to burn/breathe again. If the ebp is failed, bad signals are sent to the egr causing wrong flow of exhaust and intake gasses = wrong burn. If the egr valve is failed it is not able to respond to the ebp and the pcm (computer) could be misinterpreting those signals and causing fuel flow problems. But more likely it's just continuing on. (I also have the 403/405 codes right now and I'm going to replace the egr valve if the wiring is OK, but I will be checking that first.) So check the egr wiring plug for shorts, then pull the egr valve (its pretty easy, 2 screws and is right on top of the engine in front ) clean it (don't get cleaner up in it, just the lower section) push it to open and close a couple times for operation (it opens down not up), and put it back to see if 403/405 codes clear, otherwise replace it. (I'm personally going to buy an aftermarket one because it's been replaced 1 year ago with a Motorcraft one and if I'm only getting a year out of it, I'm not spending the money. Most on here will tell you to stick with Motorcraft parts which I do for 'most'things)

Finally independent of the exhaust issues, and aside from what oil you're using because I think we're past that, you have 3 cylinders that aren't contributing to the running of the engine. So either you have 3 injectors that have completely failed, or the injector wiring is not communicating the signals from the FICM (fuel injector control module) which is the electronic brain for the FI system. So possibly bad injector wiring harness, or wiggled loose from the bottom of the FICM. I've heard the snaps break on the bottom and zip ties can fix that. Or the FICM is failed, but with 48 volts at all times cold, crank and hot, I don't think so (at least not the typical FICM failure).

So, forscan can do the "injector click test" to determine if the injectors are even functioning at a base electric level and also to check for stiction. If they don't click they are sticking or failed. The forscan program is awesome and may look overwhelming, but it's not.