I'm sorry to be the 50 billionth person to ask this question. I tried searching the forum to no avail of a direct answer to my prob. Direction or link would be appreciated....I suck at electrical troubleshooting.
Aight so I have an 04 6.0 turboboost and on a CONSISTANT basis driving stop and go after about 2-3km I get no throttle response. I then shut the truck off, wait about 40 sec and start up(no probs starting/idling at this point) and another 2-3km it does it again. I get to a stop and rpm go down to about 5-600 and it sounds like its about to stall but doesnt. When I hit the gas pedal it doesnt do anything at all. So I replaced the stupid accelerator pedal assembly in which I have the adjustable one...set back cost>>>$850 and the app was obviously not the problem. I had assumed from the CONISISTANCY of the issue it had to be that. If its a wire it would be random and if it was fuel or fuel system related it would be constant. HPOP is out of the trouble shooting realm because truck starts and runs fine initially.....everytime I start it up, I think? Im fine highway aslong as rpm stays up around 2000 consistantly. No loss of throttle response then. Just lower idles after 2-3km of slowing down/stopping and going driving and its like it goes into limp mode.
I see alot of people are getting the tps and app confused and now I am too. I just dumped alot of money into what was not the problem and would love some direction please 😊

 

Always helps to get an app that will read the info the truck generates. Otherwise you start making expensive guesses.
Get a WiFi obd2 adapter and the Forscan app. Maybe $30 total. Look for codes and see where that takes you.

 

will codes still come up without the check engine light?

 

Sorry Im a bit of a dummy with electrical....I much prefer mexhanical probs

 

I mean because the check engine light isnt on doesnt that mean the comp is not putting a code out and I then have to read the diagnostic readings to troubleshoot with a reader? Unless it pumped the problem and I didnt notice the light I guess I just do a past/history lookup?

 

sorry xcrsp i just reread what you posted. Got it

 

Like others have said, you need to check for codes before spending any more money throwing parts at it.
Codes can be present on the 6.0 without a CEL. I've experienced it myself. If you have an Android device, get the $5 Torque Pro app and a $25 elm327 Bluetooth adapter from Amazon. If you don't have Android, but have a windows laptop with bluetooth, get a program called Forscan and that same elm327 adapter (if your laptop doesn't do Bluetooth, there are wifi versions of the adapter too). For iPhone, I don't know since I have the previous 2 options, but I've heard an app called Dashboss is good.
Here's an adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W0SDLRY/ref=pd_aw_lpo_263_bs_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q GP6GR921ZNEYM74TGN

 

Also, if you don't find any codes, be prepared for the experts on this forum to ask you for detailed sensor readings that you'll need Torque Pro, Forscan, or Dashboss for. Small differences in some sensor voltages can make a big difference in how the truck runs.

 

One very easy thing to check. (Anyone recall Miles issue?)

The connector for the EBP sensor can get damaged wires and short
the Vref out and take the throttle out. Once the wires are not touching
all will go back to normal until they make contact again.

I don't have a photo handy so if someone can post one of the 04 EBP
location that would be nice.

If you were to install some type of monitor you want to look at the Vref
and it should be very close to 5 VDC. It is used for the reference voltage
for the sensors in the truck. If it's shorted than you have no power for
the sensors like in the throttle.

Use a good magnify glass to check the connector and the wires leading to it.
I had it happen to me and the broken insulation took some looking to find.
It was right where the wires go into the plug.

If this is what you find a new pigtail is the easy way to fix it. Only do one wire
at a time so you don't mix them up. The other option is disassembly of the
connector and adding small heatshrink tubes and then shrinking them and then
reassembling the connector.

 

Thanks guys and I was just talking to my cousin and he initially agreed and said the EBP could be shorting. Im going to find a reader or adapter today and plug it in. The only prob from my understanding is that alot of no light codes that come up are probly going to be "blanket" issues as the comp would compensate for the original problem. I can google the voltage for the sensors to find the prob. Right now my list is exaust back pressure, and both torque converters. Cam and crankshaft are now on the table as the consistancy and predictability of the issue may very well be timing causing the truck to go into limp mode. However i am aware that if the comp is pulling power from other sensors to compensate for the inial prob i suppose i would be wrong to think it would be those sensors. Ill be back after i do some readings. Thanks for the tips again☺

 

If your having random issues then I would check the EBP sensor and the
conector. After it's free to take a look at the wires.

 

I just had APP issues as well
If you have a volt meter you can back probe the APP plug for the Vref voltage 5v
Mine was at 7v
Turned out to be the EGR plug wires insulation was cracked and the 12v along with oil was crossing to the Vref
Once I fixed it all is fine
You can check the Vref voltage at any of these ICP, EBP, Baro, Map APP and EGR

Here's the wiring diagram it's 05 but the blue line is the same Vref

 

Alright. Got it on the scanner and got 401, 403, and 405 codes amoung some misfiring codes but obviously all related to the egr. I unplugged the sensor and truck still runs like ****. Looks like the valve is stuck. I also unplugged the ebp sensor to double check Im on the right track. So now I guess I'll be waiting for warmer weather to pull the valve to clean or replace. Ty again for the help guys. Figured I would post my findings for future browsers

 

Ha! #6.0 Tissues is right. So I sucked it up( the cold) pulled the egr valve and cleaned. I did not replace gaskets I just wanted to see if it helped then would purchase down the road....to no avail. Torque app is telling me "egr monitor bank 4" is reading 0.999%....well below the 1.9% min and way off the 34% max. Should I go ahead and assume the valve motor is toast? This is what torque pulled for codes....
Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================

Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: VXBC9F2.HEX*
A

Current Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no current faults

Pending Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no pending faults

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
P0266: Cylinder 2 Contribution/Balance
P0269: Cylinder 4 Contribution/Balance
P0272: Cylinder 4 Contribution/Balance
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0401: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit
P0405: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit Low
P0472: Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low
P0603: Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error

End of report.

The KAM error Im pretty sure came from me replacing the batteries a cpl weeks ago. I did purposly reset the computer at that time.

 

Alright heres my update so far. I cleaned the egr valve and iat2. Too nervous to shove anything in the ebp sensor but none of these sensors where badly coked. The iat2 had "oily" matter in the plug which tells me its not ok but readings from torque pro say operating temp is fine from that sensor. Replacing tm regardless. Tested the wiring harness for proper volts and resistence in grounds...checked out. The wet or gumming was also on the valve. Tells me the engine is not burning the fuel all the way(am i right here????)
now back to the ebp....im reading a fluctuation of 16.3-19.6 psi at idle...fluctuating rapidly(i mean the damn number changes as i blink)....is this right at baro and map of 12.8psi koer?? Koeo says a solid 13.1psi for ebp and 12.8 for baro and map. Im just under 3500ft above sea level so baro and map are reading right. From what I understand the fluctuation should only be 3 psi at idle for ebp compared to baro and map. Is the ebp shot or am i diagnosing this incorrectly? Unfortunately the truck is not drivable at this point so i have no numbers "underload" so to speak, just idle.
thanks for bearing with me here guys. I dont know if I meantioned that this is my first Ford....I totally understand the "6.0 Devil" now....