Oh, and if the truck has the latest flash, if the egr isn't communicating, the truck may think it's deleted and go into limp mode. So may be as simple as failed egr and the pcm thinking it's not plugged in.

 

Alright update:
I double checked system voltage, batteries and fcim, all is well. I revisited the egr valve for the heck of it after learning more about its operation and the fact that my problem actually is occurring at op temps. I pulled the valve again and noticed that closed, there is just a tiny enough gap that would allow exaust into the chamber.NFG right? So I replaced the stupid thing, shaking my head at an obvious overlook. Also the wiring harness I replaced as the original plug was crazy corroded. All codes cleared, took her for a drive and guess what? Back to stage one. I scanned the truck on the side of the road, only code is P0266, that stupid number 2 injector....
Alright so when I had the degas out of the way to check the fcim power, I pulled the #2 plug and tested for resistance in the plug and the injector. all was well. I did not however check the power to it(I will do that after I bloody well warm up 9F out there and snowing..brr). Now I am hoping and praying it's not the injector itself.
What I'm trying to understand is why this loss of throttle and poor running happens at op temp and not having immediate running issues or start up? Is this stiction or just a bad injector? I'm on the path of understanding that there is sludge stuck in the injector and comes dislodged once the pressure is off( I shut the truck off). Once the oil gets upto op temp it dislodges and gets stuck again...causing the injector to not operate at all...sending the truck into limp mode. Am I on the right train here? I've got about $750 into this prob. If its the injector, its the owners prob, but I dont really have much more money to see if it's just stiction to find out infact, it is the injector.
Thanks again for the help troubleshooting!

 

I don't think I posted this here but you never know.
You can have stiction in 2 places. The first one is the
spool valve and the second one is the intensifier piston.
You can have both at the same time or not.

Now on the rest of the story. I was having some minor issues
with stiction and a grumpy engine when cold but never smoothing
out even once warmed up.I got my first clone IDS and found out
on the power balance test that IDS does I had both an injector that
was unhappy when cold and one that got unhappy once up to temp.
I would have to do some digging to say what one was the cold one
but it came down to replacing both #7 & #8. After that it was amazing
how smooth it made the engine run. You could put a cup of water
in the cup holder in the center console and no ripples like it used to have.

So your best plan of action would be find access to a VCM2/IDS
package to run an uncompensated power balance test. That will go
a long ways in ruling out an injector. There are other tests you can
do while your hooked up to it

Simple stiction fix is to just use Archoil in the oil.



I forgot to do a cold start on this run. Also this was before I replaced both #7 and #8.

Here is the cold start after 5K miles and you can see that #7 is still being a pig.



If you want to go look at the other videos just search the videos I have on Youtube.

 

Thank you Yahiko.
I'm going to talk to some diesel mechanics on Tues and see if I can get the contribution/balance test done.. What is really perplexing me is why its going into limp mode. As your videos show...and many others, your trucks dont go limp...they just run like crap. Mine is fine until op temp and then goes into limp mode. This is why I readdressed the egr valve as the culprit...especially after noticing the obvious leak when closed. I figured the chamber was getting too hot and shutting the engine down. Which made sense in my head when the problem occurs at op temp and the egr kicks in. I am also still getting an "egr monitor bank 4" incomplete with MID$34 and TID$80 and can't find a clear answer for that test fail. I didnot reset the comp after installation of the new egr valve/pigtail, which I will do tm. Could the comp be reading the old values of op and the new info from the new parts together?
Even with the 2nd injector fail/stiction, why is the truck still going limp rather than running like crap like yours?? I'm still also looking at fuel pressure(in which I will also ask for that test Tues) but again...why at op temp and not right away???
This puzzle is killing me. I don't even care about the truck driving now, I just want to know what the heck is going on. I have never had issues troubleshooting like this.

 

I was just reading through forums and did not mention, this is limp mode with no CEL and the P0266 is a soft code

 

egr valve and pigtail resolved the 403 and 405 codes that were soft aswell...anything other that I posted was me running unplugged sensors...of course the IAT@ read 36,600C unplugged....and that still didnt send the truck limp, wtf?

 

..I would hope the truck would go limp after a crazy temp reading! now after rereading, could it be my IAT2 isnt reading correctly? how would it read 36000 degrees and not shut the engine down? Would that be the sensor, the wiring or, the fcim processing?

 

I meant "didnt send it limp immediately". It still runs fine upto to op temps then goes limp. I had a 36000C reading right at start unplugged and it ran upto a 94-176F ish reading on eot and ect before it went limp. Plugged sensor back in and I get within 10 degrees of outside temp air and still goes limp at eot and ect temps previously stated. Another thing I found for limp mode is a possible tranny issue? with no tranny codes wth could that be?

 

I think it in the same place.
On the intake front driver side just after the beds where it heads back
is where that sensor lives (at lease on mine) You might take a look at the
harness there to see if there is a short. Also would not hurt to remove the
sensor and make sure it's clean. They can get really nasty.

How are you reading the engine temp?

 

there isn't a short and I found a post about the tranny causing limp mode. Weellllll after talking to the owner tonight, who put a new one in shortly before lending it to me, he said he "flashed"(which would just be tuned) the comp to accept it. He had a problem seating the rear speed sensor...which would cause my problems. I had to replace a battery and resetted the comp in the process doing so.Well I imagine now thats where the problem started. I'm going out first thing to check the connector and sensor but I have a funny feeling that his "flash" (tune) got deleted. I am so pissed off that this info wasn't given to me earlier. He replaced with a 5R0W...anyone got info on that tranny?

 

5R110W sorry...frustrated, just seen a relearn post....going to it now

 

You can't remove a tune by unhooking the batteries.
The PCM used EEPROM so it will stay until it is erased
and reprogrammed.

BTW that back plug is a speed sensor and it can be a bear to get at.
Also the rear sensor is the output shaft speed (OSS). The front one
if I recall correctly is the turbine shaft speed (TSS) and intermediate
shaft speed combination sensor. I got the book out and looked it up.

 

awesome info Yahiko. i did get a c0300 code from a ford app on the phone...I didn't pay too much mind to it as everyone seemed to confuse it with the abs on the rear diff....which I knew was not a prob. Like I previously said, I just found out that there was an initial prob on installation of what Im guessing is the oss sensor. Please tell me im on the right track for that possibly sending the truck to go limp? This is killing me! Good to know Id didnt reset a tune by resetting the comp though... ty for the fyi

 

Actually I have only been reading eot and ect from torque pro...not totally accurate I know but, I haven't found another temp reading for the engine outside of those 2 on the app. Ill have to go back through the PID's but I don't remember seeing another...

 

Mark K would be the one to ask about if that sensor could do that.
I would have to stumble in the trans manual to find it.

Just for giggles you might try unplugging the IA2 sensor and see what
that does and if it gives you any reading or not. If you have it unplugged
and are still getting an oddball # I would still lean to a short of some kind.

I'll do some digging in the PC/ED book in the morning.