Edit: I see you went with the 195. Good choice. Read on if interested in more input

I'm live in the blazes of hell known as Phoenix, Arizona. Where daytime temperatures run well above 115* in the summer and the pavement itself is close to 180*.

I was running a 195* thermostat for the first few years that I had the truck. It would never "overheat", but those hot summer days it would run up and sit around 210*. I knew it was a bit TOO warm when it would start to run "loose" and be down on power. So I switched down to a 180* thermostat this last year. In the summer time it's great! But in the winter time, it's barely warm enough.

Like was said, the 195 thermostat, the heater would light my feet on fire and drive me out of the cab. Or make me shut it off and crack the window. The 180 keeps it warm, but takes a few more miles to do so.

If you're looking for good heat, run a 195. If you're in hot weather more often than not, a 180 might work better. This is assuming of course that the rest of the cooling system is up to snuff.

 

Right - now usually, though not always, people remove a thermostat altogether because of overheating. The previous owner did this for a reason. Keep an eye out to try and figure out why.

Keep in mind too we need to make a distinction here. "Overheating" is not simply a gauge indication, if it's not spitting out coolant, it's not overheating. People worry about gauges a lot. Overheating is definitely bad stuff - but the gauges on these are notoriously inaccurate. So, just don't get spooled up over a nonexistent problem.

SO... This is something you'll want to keep an eye on. If there IS an issue with the radiator, or sediment and scale in the block, it can still (truly) overheat (and probably will) even without a thermostat installed, just not right away. Remember the T-stat sets the minimum engine temperature that it won't go below.

Yanking out the t-stat altogether in an OHV motor is kind of a rookie move though and eventually can cause major problems by itself. A serviceable radiator with clean water passages and jackets in engine, good water pump should be OK.

Sometimes people get turned around on their ignition tuning or the vacuum advance fails - sometimes overlooked is retarded ignition timing - this can raise engine temps into the danger zone real quick.

 

The truck has a new radiator In it, I hoping the t stat was pulled before that and that may have been the issue. I'll be watching it closely especially when summer rolls around. As far as running the 195 temp, that's the stock temp and it was only 5.99 to change if I want to lower it.

 

Ok, so that likely was the issue. So.... now the question becomes - why didn't a T-stat get installed along with the new radiator?

Eggzackly, BUT, don't use 5.99 special t-stats. The cheapies are no good. Well they never were, but now they are REALLY bad because QC is just a distant memory in the minds of old cranks like me. Stick with OEM when it comes to ignition parts, cooling parts, brakes, etc.

 

Nobody mentioned a Brand name for a T-Stat?

 

T-stats is one of the most over looked engine part that gets replaced.
It really needs to get changed out 3- 5 yrs a long with coolant.
When should not be any T-stats stuck open or closed.
When it gets stuck some!
Stuck open engine don't reach operating temp.
Stuck close the engine temp gauge goes up to max temp then some times they open a little an coolant get push
through the bypass hose that will cause the gauge to boob up an down if your lucky that is.
An not do any damage but that's iffy if not notice right a way.

Orich

 

I wouldn't buy anything but Genuine Ford (Motorcraft).
160 degree stat is part number D5PZ8575A. Still available from Ford.
180 is........................................D5PZ8575 B. Still available from Ford. And my personal choice.
192 was part number D5PZ8575C. Discontinued.

 

Brand? Stant....Motorcraft....

I run a custom thermostat from TMeyer Inc in my Cleveland, because the Cleveland needs a special thermostat to perform properly.