Hey I'm building a 51 ford f1 and contemplating what to use for master cylinder. I know that this has been probably beat to death but ill just ask again so I don't have to scour the interweb for days on end and still end up with a set up that doesn't work well. I am upgrading to disc drum, it will be a 276 flatty with a t5. I'm thinking manual brakes and I understand about residual valves and proportioning valves it just gets confusing when some drums have them built in and some don't. I'm thinking of using stock mounting location and stock brake pedals. ( I know I have to modify the cross member for the t5). I'm wondering if any one has adapted and used one of them willwood master cylinders down under the floor. I know people have used the mustang master cylinders so if you guys want to jump in and throw me some good leads to what works well and what doesn't that would be great thx.

 

I have drum front and drum rear, with the front converted to self-adjust.
Rather than complicating the issue, I used a '68 Mustang drum master from Nieoff that was new old stock (probably sourced from Raybestos or Bendix back in the day). It's a 1" bore manual drum/drum master. I believe it did have residual valves in both front and rear ports. I used an ECI EC-410a to make the 2 bolt master bolt up to the 3 bolt truck provision.
I'd probably use the Granada/Maverick 15/16" bore master for front disc, rear drum on your truck. The same ECI conversion bracket will probably fit.

 

Hey thx for the info. Even found one in town already. Now im wondering about having to modify my pushrod. Why does that sound dirty ha. I can probably fab that three to two hole bracket. Im gonna let this thread stew for a few days and im gonna call wilwood tomorrow to see if they have something as well cause i was thinking about ordering the residual valves from them. I was looking at their master cylinders with the combo metering and proportioning valve deal with a remote filler as i want to put matting on the floor and never have to see the old filler hole again. Mind you its quite a bit more compared to a granada m/c. If any one else has any more ideas im all ears.

 

Keep in mind that the disc brakes will require more pedal force than the original drum brakes.

I used a disc/drum combination. I used components sourced by these guys: Engineered Components, Inc. - Your One Stop Brake Shop!

It all went together pretty well with a firewall mounted master cylinder. I will say that one thing that I want to re-do is to put in a power brake booster.

Dan

 

I agree with old_dan, you may want to consider a booster.

I bought a CPP kit for an F1 and put it on my F2 which has a different trans crossmember than F1. It works great. The proportioning valve is mounted under the master cylinder. Don't forget to get a remote fill kit as there is little room to remove the cover once the cab is in place. Here is a previous thread regarding this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-48-52-f2.html


CPP kit mounted under the floor using stock brake pedal on an F2


White remote fill reservoir location.


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I converted to disk/drum with manual brakes I used this master cylinder:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dual-...eve,50597.html

I used an adapter I purchased from Bob Drake, but it appears to be out of stock.

 

I went with non power and am very happy with it. Disc,drum on my 48 F68, keeping it 8 bolt all around. I made my own adapter and used the original push rod. The proportioning valve is out of a 77 F250. The master is Dorman M99084. You can get it from Wrench Monkey online (Canadian site). Another good place to get parts is Parts Avatar. Both deliver to your door. After a certain amount they have free shipping in Canada. ,Doug.

 

Sorry for the hijack.....
Interesting. Didn't know about F-2's having a different crossmember.
Wonder if you could slide an F-2 trans crossmember into an F-1
frame? Seems like that would make several different trans swaps a much cleaner deal.

 

Yes you could but it would not help. You would be better off on your F1 to either make or buy a replacement trans crossmember (Speedway and others) if you change to a more modern transmission. Your current trans comes out from the top pretty easily. Just remove the seat and floor trans cover.

If you change to a more modern trans in order to keep the stock pedals and master cylinder mount just cut off the right 2/3rds of the crossmember. The rivets holding the left 1/3rd will hold the pedal securely to the frame with no problem.

Or you can go to hanging pedals but I think that you will need to install a reinforcing plate on the firewall.


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Doug, what calipers and rotors brakects did you use for the front disk conversion..

 

Right on guys thanks for the info. Went and grabbed a wilcap adapter and t5 today from a fella so getting close to getting all the parts i need for the frame. Picked up a nine inch rear the other day another guy was selling. Has all the mounting for 4 link and air bags so havent decided if im gonna go that route or get a different rear and do the rear perch flip and save the air bag rear for another project. Feel free to chime in with any helpful tips or any
thing you may have on the brakes. Im still on the fence on the brakes but gonna make a pick soon. You guys shared a lot of great info so thx again.

 

I used calipers and brackets from 77 F250. I used the following info as a guide. I can provide you with the different part numbers if you want. Doug.
F-2/F-3 Front Disc Brake Conversion

 

well i got my cylinder ordered. Went with the granada one. After much stewing about it i figured why pay for the wilwood one if no one will see it. I ordered the cylinder, proportioning valve, and residual valves from a buddy locally. Cost altogether around 300. Why is everything in Canada twice as much as every where else in the world. I probably paid a lil more than ordering it online but i try to support the lil man. I didnt want to run the booster and power on it because the flatty will be running a pretty aggressive cam and wasnt sure how much vacuum it will make. I could probably run a canister but i spent a long time cleaning up the firewall so my plan is to have the league minimum of clutter. In fact if i have nothing on it that would be the best. I just want to see motor when u pop the hood. Thanks to everyone with the input its was a big help and nice to see how every one gets the job done. Im taking bits from a few of your guys ideas and running with it. Im sure over the next few weeks ill be picking your brains some more
. Il try to get some more pics over the next cold snap that starts tomorrow. Cheers

 

Haven't ordered a Granada master in awhile, you may find a residual valve already in the port leading to the rear drums.....
Unfold a paper clip, stick it in the hole gently and check to
see if there's one in there. It'll be right below the flare seat
if it's there.