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My 56 has Monte Carlo front disk, Ford rear drums and a brake master cylinder for power brakes. The MC is a 15/16" dia bore from a Mustang (?). The brakes work fine, but it takes a lot of leg to stop my truck. I want to stay with non-power brakes. I have read before that an early Mustang master cylinder would do the job.
What is the non-power master cylinder I should be looking for?
aw c'mon just slip a power booster and the brakes will be awesome. A diffrent MC will just be marginally if any better. If you pedal setup was originally from a PB car the flucrum may be diffrent and may be the bigger problem.
I THINK the one you want is the '69-'70-something disk/drum master from the mid size Ford/Merc line. I want to say they're 1 1/8" bore? (Dont quote me on it!) I think the guys that race should have ALOT of input on this.... seeing as stopping is important to those guys!
ANYHOO... I'm pretty sure it was any Mustang, Cougar, Fairlaine etc. that ran those masters.
Im trying to figure out what master/booster combo I need for drum/drum brakes. I'm looking @ '66-'69 drum/drum masters from Ford/Mercs and boosters from the Mustang II family. I plan to use the available mounting brackets, but find $400.00 a little brutal for a master/booster set-up from the vendors.
I THINK the one you want is the '69-'70-something disk/drum master from the mid size Ford/Merc line. I want to say they're 1 1/8" bore? (Dont quote me on it!) I think the guys that race should have ALOT of input on this.... seeing as stopping is important to those guys!
ANYHOO... I'm pretty sure it was any Mustang, Cougar, Fairlaine etc. that ran those masters.
Im trying to figure out what master/booster combo I need for drum/drum brakes. I'm looking @ '66-'69 drum/drum masters from Ford/Mercs and boosters from the Mustang II family. I plan to use the available mounting brackets, but find $400.00 a little brutal for a master/booster set-up from the vendors.
I got my setup from the Fatrodder on Ebay. $187 to my door:
Haven't installed it yet, but it looks like a decent unit. 1" bore dual MC w/booster. If I ever get my cab back on, I'll let you know how it works out.
When power brakes were first introduced in 1951, most cars didn't have suspended pedals. On certain cars like: Packards, Olds, Buick and Cadillac, a Treadle-Vac was used. This booster mounted on the firewall t'other side of the pedal, where a rod went from pedal to booster. On Studebakers with masters mounted on the frame underneath the floor (all 1951-66), and 55-57 T-Birds (among others), a Hydro-Vac was used. This booster was remotely mounted on the left inner fender apron.
i am going to run the power booster and master set up from no limit.it has the 30 inch rod so the set up set's back about 30 inch's from the peddle on the frame.i fabbed it up before i removed my cab.look's sweet and hope it work's that way too.
I think once you put discs on, you're bound to use a booster. Discs aren't self-energizing like drums, so it takes a lot of squeeze. I've driven some musclecars with discs but without power assist, and it was beyond "exercise". The same car with a booster is downright pleasant.
Is your existing M/C built with one large reservoir and one little one? That would be appropriate for a disc/drum setup. If it has two equal chambers, it is for a drum/drum car and you won't likely get much out of the discs. It would have a residual valve in each side, too, (unless you've removed it) which isn't good for the disk half of the system.
I got my setup from the Fatrodder on Ebay. $187 to my door:
If I ever get my cab back on, I'll let you know how it works out.
Goob, is that drum/drum or disk/drum? I've seen Fatrodders stuff on ebay too. One of the ebay vendors didnt carry under floor drum/drum pwr. set-ups. I think it was him.
For manual brakes you want a smaller bore diameter so you can build more pressure. You also want a 6:1 pedal ratio. A 1 1/8" master cylinder would most likey be off a power setup. One thing to note is a Disc/Disc master cylinder will have equal reservoirs but big ones.
Randy, how come you don't want to upgrade to a power setup?
Because I'm concerned that the under floor power brake setup I can buy from most vendors will:
1. Put the master cylinder aft of the floor fill hole.
2. interfere with my (FMX) tranny crossmember.
I am looking for an softer pedal to activate the brakes I have without going to the power brake conversion.
I could go to a hanging pedal setup, but I'm looking for a less complicated option.
Please stop talking about power brakes and answer my question. I'd appreciate that.
My, my, my, aren't we being Snippy, ya' olde grump.
Having already answered your question, I acutally found the Article on this site, I believe you may find what you wish to know in it.
Complete w/ Pix no less, so you wont be so confused. https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ough_1964.html
P.S.
Just in case R.J. has me Blocked & can no longer read my posts, someone else may wish to repost this link to the article.
1965/66 Mustangs only offered manual discs, no power discs were available. The m/c used is specific for these discs, and is not the same as the one for manual drum, or power drum. This disc setup also used a brake proportioning valve on the rear axle (C5ZZ-2B091-A).
The 67's did have power discs, and a proportioning valve was used here too (C7OZ-2B091-A). The 1968 and later discs didn't use the valve.