Power booster install '48-'52 F2
#1
Power booster install '48-'52 F2
As I promised in a previous post I did figure out how to modify a CPP '48-'52 (4852BB2) power brake booster/dual master cylinder kit to fit my '50 F2. It isn't hard once you figure it out. Here are the steps:
The lower hole in the support bracket for the new assembly does not perfectly match the hole in the old master cylinder pedal support riveted to the frame and the trans crossmember. Drill the hole in the old support 1 size larger. Use ⅜" fine thread, 4" long, grade 8, plated bolts.
The new cross brace does not fit into the frame either. Mark the amount to be trimmed.
Trim the amount marked with a high speed cut off grinder.
Temporarily bolt the two halves of the new mount together and secure the assembly to the frame with a clamp. Mark the holes to be drilled in the frame with a punch.
Drill the holes in the frame by drilling a pilot hole from the inside first and then drill the final sized hole from the outside. Bolt the cross brace to the frame loosely.
Remove the temporary bolts and install the booster assembly in its designed holes. Install and tighten the 4" long grade 8 bolts so that they clamp the new assembly securely to the old pedal support. Tighten the frame to cross brace bolts.
Install the new master cylinder push rod linkage Heim joint into the old pedal yoke and adjust the linkage for the proper pedal height. You may need to spread the old pedal yoke slightly.
Did I miss anything in the instructions?
The lower hole in the support bracket for the new assembly does not perfectly match the hole in the old master cylinder pedal support riveted to the frame and the trans crossmember. Drill the hole in the old support 1 size larger. Use ⅜" fine thread, 4" long, grade 8, plated bolts.
The new cross brace does not fit into the frame either. Mark the amount to be trimmed.
Trim the amount marked with a high speed cut off grinder.
Temporarily bolt the two halves of the new mount together and secure the assembly to the frame with a clamp. Mark the holes to be drilled in the frame with a punch.
Drill the holes in the frame by drilling a pilot hole from the inside first and then drill the final sized hole from the outside. Bolt the cross brace to the frame loosely.
Remove the temporary bolts and install the booster assembly in its designed holes. Install and tighten the 4" long grade 8 bolts so that they clamp the new assembly securely to the old pedal support. Tighten the frame to cross brace bolts.
Install the new master cylinder push rod linkage Heim joint into the old pedal yoke and adjust the linkage for the proper pedal height. You may need to spread the old pedal yoke slightly.
Did I miss anything in the instructions?
Last edited by petemcl; 12-07-2014 at 09:13 AM. Reason: Corrected part number
#4
#5
Thanks for catching that Mike. I had the wrong part number in there. That kit is for '48-'52 F1s (4852BB2) but I guess because of the difference in the F2 crossmember it doesn't fit. We had talked about the '53-'56 so I had to look up what I finally ordered and received.
#6
#7
Hi Pete and everyone,
I'm about to begin planning putting an under-cab brake system on my '49 F3.
This thread has a very good how-to but since it is three years old, I was wondering if there are any further modifications that are recommended to this set-up or any other kits that folks have found that will fit an F2/F3.
Thanks for any replies.
Tom
I'm about to begin planning putting an under-cab brake system on my '49 F3.
This thread has a very good how-to but since it is three years old, I was wondering if there are any further modifications that are recommended to this set-up or any other kits that folks have found that will fit an F2/F3.
Thanks for any replies.
Tom
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#9
My question is, why not put in engine bay where brake fluid can be added easily? Not only that but brake fluid is hydroscopic, and where do you get most water? Under the cab.
my two $.02
but then ive completly customized interior, so wouldnt want to pull up carpet, remove a floor plate every time i wanted to flush or do brakes.
my two $.02
but then ive completly customized interior, so wouldnt want to pull up carpet, remove a floor plate every time i wanted to flush or do brakes.
#10
#11
#13
My question is, why not put in engine bay where brake fluid can be added easily? Not only that but brake fluid is hydroscopic, and where do you get most water? Under the cab.
my two $.02
but then ive completly customized interior, so wouldnt want to pull up carpet, remove a floor plate every time i wanted to flush or do brakes.
my two $.02
but then ive completly customized interior, so wouldnt want to pull up carpet, remove a floor plate every time i wanted to flush or do brakes.
Later!
Mr. Ed
#14
#15
I have just changed the one on my 54 Coe. I made a plate with the 3 holes for ford and 4 holes for booster outside them. The plate bolts to original cross member with 1.5 inch spacers and the booster bolts to it. A small bracket from master cylinder to frame. I dont have pics and its too cold to lay underneath now. It fills from the wheel well with funnel.I wont be testing it until warmer weather but i intend to do my other coe the same.
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