Where to cut the frame?
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Where to cut the frame?
Looking to cut my frame down from 118" wheelbase to 110 to accommodate the bed I have. Where is the best place to take the 8" out? I plan on cutting in a "Z", not just a straight cut. I've found some good articles and videos on shortening frames in general, but not on the 56. I've searched and read a lot of the posts here too, but nothing is really said about where to take the 8". Just looking for some advice before I hack! Thanks!
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 467
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From: Austin, TX
I'd move the rear end closer to the cab and cut the bedrails short.
But on my truck I'm chopping it right behind the cab, only because my F4 was lengthened at some point at the same spot. Rather chop out their suspect work and have it done right.
But on my truck I'm chopping it right behind the cab, only because my F4 was lengthened at some point at the same spot. Rather chop out their suspect work and have it done right.
old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
Posts: 5,921
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From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
I think easiest place is behind the cab ... nice long stretch with nothing in the way... of course you know you'll have to shorten driveshaft and the fluid lines will have to be redone... ebrake cable also... but those are just things...
In addition to the "Z" cut I'd also recommend adding some plate on each side of frame rail to stiffen the cut/weld... at least 5 or 6 " past the end of the cuts. Google 'fish plates' or 'shortening frames" to see examples
In addition to the "Z" cut I'd also recommend adding some plate on each side of frame rail to stiffen the cut/weld... at least 5 or 6 " past the end of the cuts. Google 'fish plates' or 'shortening frames" to see examples
Knuckle Bandage Sales Rep
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,677
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From: Maine
Since these trucks have a two-piece driveshaft with a support bearing in the approximate midpoint, will the geometry be affected? Is there a point in which a carrier support is rendered ineffective if shifted towards either end?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,594
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From: North Central Arkansas
I would cut the frame in the straight part just under the back of the cab. Cut it at a long angle, 20-30 degrees, instead of a "Z", it would be a lot easier to fit and line up. If welded properly, a fish plate wouldn't be necessary. You can fish plate it on the inside only, so it won't show, with a diamond shaped fish plate.
Mark
Mark
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
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From: Northville, MI
Looking to cut my frame down from 118" wheelbase to 110 to accommodate the bed I have. Where is the best place to take the 8" out? I plan on cutting in a "Z", not just a straight cut. I've found some good articles and videos on shortening frames in general, but not on the 56. I've searched and read a lot of the posts here too, but nothing is really said about where to take the 8". Just looking for some advice before I hack! Thanks!
The rear wheels are too far forward.
I moved the fenders forward 4" to compensate for the odd frame dimension.
The frame was cut right behind the cab then fish-plated. Good welds but I think an offset or Z cut would have been the right way to do it. . . . but I didn't have a vote.
I replaced the rear part of the frame rails and installed a rear crossmember. I them mounted a gas tank in the rear so that I could get the tank out of the cab.
I would recommend that you cut it down to 114"
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,522
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From: HUDSON, FL
i saw them cutting the frame of a real big truck on diesel brothers.they said that it should be cut at about a 45 degree angle.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: AKRON ohio
53-56 have to be cut down to 110" to be correct for the short bed running boards to fit. That's the correct WB for a 53-56 short bed
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Northville, MI
Sorry. I missed that it was a '56.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 263
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From: Moorhead, MN
I shortened mine back in the dark ages(pre-internet). I did a straight cut and a square fish plate. We cut it right behind the 3rd running board mount, and took out 8". If your using a short box box and running boards(i.e. not shortening your long box stuff) the 3rd running board mount will have to go, and will give you a little more room to play with for a diagonal cut. You also need to take about 10" off the back. It would help to have pics(or a short box frame to reference) I didn't and it has bitten me in the @ss a couple of times now.
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I shortened mine back in the dark ages(pre-internet). I did a straight cut and a square fish plate. We cut it right behind the 3rd running board mount, and took out 8". If your using a short box box and running boards(i.e. not shortening your long box stuff) the 3rd running board mount will have to go, and will give you a little more room to play with for a diagonal cut. You also need to take about 10" off the back. It would help to have pics(or a short box frame to reference) I didn't and it has bitten me in the @ss a couple of times now.
Great tips. Thank you everyone! I didn't think about the 3rd running board mount, but i'm sure that will have to come off for the "z." I've been knee deep in rust repair and just need to step away and have plenty of work to do on the chassis. I'll come back and let you guys now how it turns out with the frame.
Thanks again!
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2017
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The reason is to get more weld surface. 45* works because you can use a speed square to get both sides semetrical Good rule of thumb.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2017
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You can see I had to reattach the 3rd running board. Wasn’t a big deal. 24 1/8 on center, I used a straight edge to keep it level.
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