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Tugly has a very short video of him using a rifle cleaning kit to clean the fuel passages in the engine, I will see if I can find it and post it before headed off to dinner with my wife. If not, perform an advanced search and check it out.
The video is very short, but does provide a visual aid in regards to another step you could do since you have the injectors out already.
Thank you Brian42, that info and the illustration was exactly what I was looking for. I went ahead and ordered the FRx as well. Can't think of a better time than now to install it since everything is pulled apart.
Set aside some time for it. I had the HPOP reservoir out when I did this. I tried to install it previously to that but could not get the forward fitting removed with the reservoir in place where others have succeeded.
Tugly has a very short video of him using a rifle cleaning kit to clean the fuel passages in the engine, I will see if I can find it and post it before headed off to dinner with my wife. If not, perform an advanced search and check it out.
The video is very short, but does provide a visual aid in regards to another step you could do since you have the injectors out already.
Thank you Sous. I will be searching for this video this weekend. Tomorrow evening we plan to put the valve covers on and soak the engine in degreaser, pressure wash the block, and start the dig into the fuel system. Saturday we should be able to drop the tank for inspection, perform the Hutch Mod and work our way back towards the block. I will take some pictures along the way and post my findings. I really appreciate all the wisdom and advice on getting this accomplished.
Shane, be very careful with the pressure washer. The general consensus is to use low pressure water from a garden hose or equivalent, and cover the PS pump, fuse blocks and other components that are directly "exposed". Lots of sensors on the engine so be careful.
Hey guys just wanted to post an update on the progress. Every moment has been taken up between work and wrenching on the van. I ended up putting the old injectors back in and ran a few bottles of Diesel Purge directly through the fuel pump and return in hopes that it would loosen some of the gunk. From there I pulled the fuel bowl out and it was a mess. The stuff on the bottom was fairly solid, thick, brown, and resembled something like seaweed or kelp.
The fuel lines were equally as bad. This is the lower line on the fuel bowl facing the drivers side. Scary stuff...
I'm guessing the fuel pressure relief was not operable.
I plan on replacing the drivers and passenger cylinder head fuel line with the CNC FAB 4 Line Fuel Bowl Retain Kit and return the Riffraff FRX. I'm going to attempt a cleaning of the fuel supply and return line this weekend. I bought a couple 36" line cleaning brushes from a home brew store that may be able to flex around the bends of the fuel lines. I'm hoping to salvage some of the line if possible. I have an array of solvents and cleaners that I'm going to throw at it. So far nothing really seems to cut the stuff.
On a positive note the fuel rails seem to be free of any large blockages. I pulled the passenger side fuel line to the head off and the small screen in the fitting was clean. Thank you Sous and Brian42 for posting the video. I'm not sure what I can do about the fuel rails, at this point I may just leave them be unless anyone has a suggestion to clean them out.
Since I'm in this deep I plan on upgrading quite a few parts to get the most out of this tear down.
160/80 injectors
PHP Hydra / Custom Tunes by Swamps and Tony Wildman (Just ended up this way based on my purchases)
CNC Fab 4 line Kit
Valve Springs / Valve Seals
KC Turbo DIY KC66 - I'm leaning towards this to help flow on the Van Turbo. Please chime in if this is a bad idea.
Custom Air Intake
I'm new to the 7.3 so if any of the above stands out like a red flag please let me know. I really appreciate everyone's help and support you guys have been a wealth of knowledge!
Pretty sure that gunk is algae. To kill it you'll need a biocide. I've never had to deal with that problem but google is your friend there. Plenty of flushing with fresh fuel and several filter changes, I'd guess.
Looks like you are in CA so you need to pass smog like me. As mentioned the engine must look stock. Nobody can see the injectors of course, but that KC66 turbo and regulated return are verboten. Any CAI is fine. A lot depends on the smog tech tho; some will try to fail you for the CAI even though it is perfectly legal, and they may or may not notice the turbo and reg return. Van turbo is already bigger than the truck version, was a popular upgrade for a long time. If a billet wheel is available for a van turbo that might be all the air required. I'd do more research there before laying out the coin.
The little rubber Parker fittings on the fuel lines should not be reused, btw. Included in the o ring kit from Bob.
Need a new style fuel bowl heater too, that one is the old style original which is more prone to shorting out.
Wow, you have your work cut out for you, there is no other way to say it.
David is right, you need to pick and choose your parts cautiously. Although, when you get done cleaning and refreshing the parts and plumbing, it will run like a champ.
Yep, that's some stuff in there alright.
I'd follow aawlberninf350's advice on addressing algae and I'd put some hose on the fuel feed while you have it apart and run the pump into a clean bucket a while to blow the lines clean. You probably have that stuff in the mouth of your pump as well and I have no clue if it will clear up or if a pump replacement is in order. On the upgrades and your CA smog tests...most things under the hood are buried deep on a van and cannot be seen. I don't think that they could see the turbo without opening up the dog box, do they do that? Same could be true with the frx. A custom air intake could alert an astute smog tech to engine upgrades and prompt him to dig deeper.
Looks like you are in CA so you need to pass smog like me. As mentioned the engine must look stock. Nobody can see the injectors of course, but that KC66 turbo and regulated return are verboten. Any CAI is fine. A lot depends on the smog tech tho; some will try to fail you for the CAI even though it is perfectly legal, and they may or may not notice the turbo and reg return. Van turbo is already bigger than the truck version, was a popular upgrade for a long time. If a billet wheel is available for a van turbo that might be all the air required. I'd do more research there before laying out the coin.
I lived through exactly what aawlberninf350 said with the intake. I already had a 6637 filter when the smog check thing started. I went to the closest station near me and they "did me a favor" by doing the visual in the parking lot. He told me he would fail me if I pulled it into his garage since it was an aftermarket filter. I showed him in the CA smog instructions where it can be any adequate filter as long as it retains the OEM intake tube. He said no and I said have a nice day.
The station I go to now is fair about things. I also ask them before I buy stuff to make sure it will pass for big ticket items like exhaust and intake. They have not failed me for my chip in the past but a cable sticking out of your PCM is easy to spot and is technically a failure. The visual is at the discretion of the shop/technician. I would talk to your shop before any large purchases. Mine only has 2 guys that test diesels so I know who I'm going to get and they are the ones I ask before I buy. That being said this month is my smog test and I have several items that I've done that I didn't ask about so am rolling the dice with:
- FRx
- Removed red and green lines (I passed with the Turbomaster Wastegate controller but left the lines in the engine compartment last time). I did leave the solenoid bolted (and plugged in) on the spider so hopefully that's enough.
- S&B Intake
- 160/80 single shot sticks
- Hydra (had a 6 position chip last time that passed)
As much as I'd love a KC turbo one of the things I've heard is that the technicians look for 'Garrett' stamped on the housing. Since I'm not planning on sled pulling or embarrassing Camaros I know I'd be happy with a 38R (it has the stamp on the housing). Again, this is a subjective examination by the shop. You have to remember that a lot can happen in the two years between smog checks: you might move, change shops, or the shop could get another tech (or close altogher) so you have to keep that in mind too. I've done enough other stuff that may not fly at other places so I'm trying to avoid glaring discrepancies to minimize the attention I get during the visual inspection. I've also had my PCM flashed so that if I fail for my Hydra I can pull it and the truck will run stock-ish with the new sticks.
What Brian said about smog techs and visual inspections. Apparently the CARB keeps tweaking thins in the visual inspection as well. I've had my AFE setup for a few years now and no issues with smog (intakes/filters are supposed to be exempt) but last time he mentioned that it was a good thing that I had the paperwork with the CARB approval sticker or it would have been an issue.
You fellas have it rough out there. I have a Mercury Sable that leaks every fluid it has, including brake fluid as of this week. It is in such bad shape, that if I took that into a shop to be tested in CA, they may shoot me. Well, depending on how the tech feels about the 2nd Amendment, they may just kick me out of the state and tell me never to come back.
Maybe the Smog Guy was referring to a performance cam...maybe?
I took my truck in for an alignment awhile ago. They took an inordinate amount of time to get the job done (over 2 hours). Knowing full well that only the toe can be adjusted on the truck I asked what took so long. He told me they "took care of me" and adjusted the toe and camber because it was "pretty bad" and it took awhile to align the steering wheel straight as I had requested. When I asked him how it takes 2 hours to set the toe with one adjustment tube then straighten the steering wheel with the other adjustment tube, he had no answer. Looking at the scrape marks on the adjustment tubes I'm pretty sure they just put a big wrench on it and never loosened the bolts when they turned them. Needless to say that was the only time I ever went to that shop.
Maybe the Smog Guy was referring to a performance cam...maybe?
Well, umm... He had to charge me for adjusting the engine.
It passed after he set the timing to factory and leaned out the jets. Also ran like crap then, but it passed.
He was nice enough to tell me exactly how much timing change and how many turns of each of the mixture and idle screws. Just for my records, of course.
You fellas have it rough out there. I have a Mercury Sable that leaks every fluid it has, including brake fluid as of this week. It is in such bad shape, that if I took that into a shop to be tested in CA, they may shoot me. Well, depending on how the tech feels about the 2nd Amendment, they may just kick me out of the state and tell me never to come back.
A SABLE!!!! Last time I saw one of those, I crashed it into an Old Massey- Ferguson Combine at the local Combine D-Derby 2 years ago. Then it leaked Profusely......Ahhh the Memories!.....
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