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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 09:38 PM
  #16  
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Yes, all '99 and up F model Super Duties have intercoolers.
Thank you Walleye Hunter I was under the impression that only the late 99's had intercoolers. I figure the van should run similar EGT's as the earlier model 7.3 with stage ones. I'm just having a hard time putting stock injectors in when I may be able to detune some single shots and open up a little more power in the future.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 12:06 AM
  #17  
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714, you in my hood! I can spare some time next week if your still fighting with it..tank drop, rebuild fuel bowl, remove fuel lines from heads, shoot compressed air through the feed/return lines along with the heads.... Lemme no.. I'm in Placentia
 
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 12:17 AM
  #18  
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I’m in the same boat as you with injector sizing. I’m in process of converting my 2001 E350 to 4x4 and was thinking of doing the 160/80’s and detaining them with programming. I want to have future options with power down the road. I’m going try the wicked wheel 2 and watch egt’s, if that’s unacceptable i’ll Upgrade to a kc66. What are you doing for a cold air intake?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 12:35 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
714, you in my hood! I can spare some time next week if your still fighting with it..tank drop, rebuild fuel bowl, remove fuel lines from heads, shoot compressed air through the feed/return lines along with the heads.... Lemme no.. I'm in Placentia
Wow thank you Timmy! I really appreciate the offer and may take you up on it. The van is in Garden Grove pulled apart as a work in progress. Thank you for outlining the areas that need attention. I will be working on it this week and I will let you know how it goes.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 12:51 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by gb81
I’m in the same boat as you with injector sizing. I’m in process of converting my 2001 E350 to 4x4 and was thinking of doing the 160/80’s and detaining them with programming. I want to have future options with power down the road. I’m going try the wicked wheel 2 and watch egt’s, if that’s unacceptable i’ll Upgrade to a kc66. What are you doing for a cold air intake?
Hey GB81, I'm in the process of moving the battery under the hood to the fame rail beside the auxiliary battery. Removing the battery, the battery tray, factory air box and hose frees up a decent amount of usable space. I haven't figured it out yet but I may try and come up with something custom to fill the battery hole.

I recently found a guy on one of these forums that used to custom make air boxes for vans years ago. I hit him up and he said he could still make them but, due to materials and costs he would have to make 2. PM me if you're interested in costs. It didn't make sense for me to buy 2 lol.

Also.. I was really surprised how easy it was to pull the injectors out of the van so don't let the tight hood space and dog house keep you from pulling that seized injector

​​​​
 
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 05:46 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 714shane
...I live in Southern California with warm Temps....

...I need to order some injectors today. I was planning on the swamps 160/80 remans, but now I'm thinking I should save a bit of money and get them from Rosewood incase I end up wrecking the injectors....
Uh... I think we have an issue - emissions.

Originally Posted by 714shane
...​​​I ran quite a bit of fuel system cleaner through it over the last 4 months such as 2 full treatments of Diesel Extreme from Hot Shots, 64oz of Striction Eliminator oil treatment from Hot Shots, Every Day Diesel fuel treatment used with every fill up from Hot Shots, and finally a bottle of Diesel Fuel Therapy Diesel Injector Cleaner from CRC. Hopefully that pushed out some of the gunk...
In all honesty, I may have just discovered the source of the gunk. I don't suppose you saw any symptoms of gunk in there (other than misbehaving injectors) before all the creative chemistry?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 11:07 PM
  #22  
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"Uh... I think we have an issue - emissions"

Don't know about So. Cal but a smog check in my area is a visual only to verify stock "configuration". I know things may be different in the Southland but from things that I have read it sounds like some folks are getting jacked around with the smog issues due to kids in the mix that don't really know what they are doing.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 12:07 AM
  #23  
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Correct I’m battery to frame and going to air filter in that location. Thinking of a hood lover possibly. Maybe a snorkel but I don’t like the look of hem
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 11:11 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by gb81
Correct I’m battery to frame and going to air filter in that location. Thinking of a hood lover possibly. Maybe a snorkel but I don’t like the look of hem
I think your autocorrect needs to be scolded
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 01:08 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
In all honesty, I may have just discovered the source of the gunk. I don't suppose you saw any symptoms of gunk in there (other than misbehaving injectors) before all the creative chemistry?
Thank you for the reply Tugly. The only source of gunk that I originally seen was the black fuel filter. Based on that I decided to run a bunch of cleaner through the system in hopes of relieving some cold start issues. Obviously the cleaner didn't solve the problem so I purchased an AE and it helped me to determine that the poppet valves were weak.

I never mixed any of the cleaners. I did have the striction oil additive running with the diesel extreme fuel additive but never mix fuel cleaners in the same tank. Is it possible that the cleaners pushed all that gunk out of the fuel system and into the injectors?

​​​​​I would like to inspect the fuel rails if possible. Can anyone tell me where I can find the plug, if one exists? I have searched Google but my search hasn't provided a clear image of where to look.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 01:36 PM
  #26  
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You will certainly want to drop your fuel tank and pull the fuel bowl, cleaning both thoroughly. You will have to pull the center post and fuel bowl heating element from the bowl to get the gritty stuff out of it.

Your fuel pump may have a screen on the pickup side that could be clogged up with the debris as well.

You have a LOT of debris in your system. "Destruction level" kind of debris if you do not remove it ASAP and hope that the rest of your system is not too worn or damaged. You may get lucky, but surely won't be happy if you don't address it with due diligence.

I don't know if it would be wise to try and flush the fuel rails into the cylinders, then evacuate them via vacuum and manually turning over the engine with the glowplugs pulled.

I was surprised how much junk was in the bottom of my fuel bowl- out of sight until I removed the heater- when I first got my Excursion.

You'll get it. It was a good thing you decided to pull the injectors and check things out now.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 02:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 714shane
Can anyone tell me where I can find the plug, if one exists? I have searched Google but my search hasn't provided a clear image of where to look.
There are four connections that I know of. Two of them (driver's forward and passenger's rear) are where the fuel lines are currently connected. The other two have a port plug. The passenger's side forward is next to the HPOP reservoir and the driver's side rear is near the turbo inlet. I'm not sure if there are fuel rail port plugs on the front and rear of the engine block as there are for the oil rails (which are difficult locations with the engine installed).

You can see their location in the instructions from Riffraff Diesel for installing their FRx (Figure 6 for the passenger's side and Figure 8 for the driver's side):

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf

I don't think you'll see much since the ports are on top of the rails instead of the ends unless you have a really small inspection scope.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 03:53 PM
  #28  
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Thank you for the detailed breakdown ExPACamper. I'm going to get started on the fuel system Friday evening and work on it through the weekend. I ordered the Hutch mod kit, fuel bowl resealing kit, along with a laundry list of other seals and replacement parts from Riffraff this afternoon.

I'm open to any ideas and suggestions along the way to help get this crud out. I can't thank you guys enough for all the help and advice
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 03:59 PM
  #29  
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Tugly has a very short video of him using a rifle cleaning kit to clean the fuel passages in the engine, I will see if I can find it and post it before headed off to dinner with my wife. If not, perform an advanced search and check it out.

The video is very short, but does provide a visual aid in regards to another step you could do since you have the injectors out already.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 04:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by brian42
There are four connections that I know of. Two of them (driver's forward and passenger's rear) are where the fuel lines are currently connected. The other two have a port plug. The passenger's side forward is next to the HPOP reservoir and the driver's side rear is near the turbo inlet. I'm not sure if there are fuel rail port plugs on the front and rear of the engine block as there are for the oil rails (which are difficult locations with the engine installed).

You can see their location in the instructions from Riffraff Diesel for installing their FRx (Figure 6 for the passenger's side and Figure 8 for the driver's side):

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf

I don't think you'll see much since the ports are on top of the rails instead of the ends unless you have a really small inspection scope.
Thank you Brian42, that info and the illustration was exactly what I was looking for. I went ahead and ordered the FRx as well. Can't think of a better time than now to install it since everything is pulled apart.
 
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