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Crusty Injectors

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  #61  
Old 03-02-2018, 06:56 PM
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I believe you can put a penny in the bottom in order to keep debris from falling into the cylinder and then use a brush kit for injector holes to clean them. I know International makes one, it is pricey though.
 
  #62  
Old 03-02-2018, 07:38 PM
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I was under the impression that those brush kits we used to clean the bore before installing new cups.

How about some sort of chemical to help loosen the stuff?
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  #63  
Old 03-02-2018, 07:42 PM
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You could be right, I never really paid much attention to them other than they were available. Maybe use a nylon brush like a toothbrush or something to be sure you are not damaging the cups. Spray the brush with brake cleaner or something before reaching in there to scrub them.

Just putting some ideas out there for you to either use or come up with your own ideas.
 
  #64  
Old 03-02-2018, 07:51 PM
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Much appreciated Sous
I'm heading to the garage to try a few things ​​​​​​
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  #65  
Old 03-02-2018, 08:18 PM
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I've not tried this in an engine and someone might have a reason NOT to do it, but I'll offer this.

1. Biodiesel is a great solvent and shares some chemical chains with WVO

2. Biodiesel has worked fine in my construction equipment. I have not run it in any concentration in my Excursion

3. If you are not *running* the truck, just using BD as a solvent, I don't imagine it would do anything bad.

It was recommended to use a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning wire brush (new) for cleaning the injector holes when replacing cups. I found the "new" copper brush to be very soft- more a factor of "cheap brushes" I think, but that could work in your favor and treat the cups with care?

I'm not sure about the cup sealant and biodiesel?

...and the Elephant in the Room....

Wouldn't it be wise to go ahead and replace your cups while it is apart?

The benefits would be 1) Clean cups and injector holes, 2) New sealant, 3) New cups, and 4) KNOWN procedures and course of action with predictable results.

It's your call, I'm throwing this stuff out there for your consideration and opinions from the collective knowledge trust
 
  #66  
Old 03-03-2018, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
I'm not sure about the cup sealant and biodiesel?
Funny you would mention that point...I was going to recommend Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) as a solvent but I'm pretty sure that it is effective at getting loctite off of things when you want to remove it and would not be a good choice in this case.
 
  #67  
Old 03-05-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Sous
I believe you can put a penny in the bottom in order to keep debris from falling into the cylinder and then use a brush kit for injector holes to clean them. I know International makes one, it is pricey though.
There are two. One is a thick brush that cleans the bore and a thin brush that cleans the hole into the cylinder. And you are right...they are not cheap. I found them moderately useful along with some brushes that I bought from Harbor Freight (similar to https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piec...set-66129.html). This kit would be more effective than the two International brushes: Injector Cup Bore Brush Kit - Riffraff Diesel Performance. Depending on how much cleaning needs to be done you will go through more than one of these brushes. That's one of the reasons I got a brush kit from Harbor Freight to minimize the cost.

Originally Posted by 714shane
How about some sort of chemical to help loosen the stuff?​​​​​​
I did not use any chemicals to loosen the old Loctite. There wasn't any on the upper portion so that was easy. I put a paintbrush handle in the injector hole and used a long, thin screwdriver to chip the old stuff out then vacuumed up the pieces. I used cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol to clean up the seats.
 
  #68  
Old 03-05-2018, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by brian42
I did not use any chemicals to loosen the old Loctite.
I think he was asking about removing the WVO residue and keeping the cups intact. I believe I was the one raising questions about how any solvents would impact the Loctite and suggested considering replacing the cups. Sorry if that created some confusion
 
  #69  
Old 03-05-2018, 11:56 AM
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Thanks for the correction. That is way outside my wheelhouse. The only thing I know is that our engine is only rated for B5 by Ford.
 
  #70  
Old 03-05-2018, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42
Thanks for the correction. That is way outside my wheelhouse. The only thing I know is that our engine is only rated for B5 by Ford.
I used to make biodiesel. The "new" barrel I stored it in...from small leaks while pouring, the paint came off the side where the biodiesel was spilled. It's a great solvent
 
  #71  
Old 03-05-2018, 04:01 PM
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Thank you for all the suggestions, and I apologize for the late reply.

I threw everything I had at the residue that accumulated on and and above the cups. I soaked a small thin chunk that I chipped off in MEK, Acetone, Thinner, and finally Easy Off. Nothing touches this stuff.

I have decided to do the wise thing as ExPa suggested, replace the cups, and clean out the bores.

Brian42, did you use the harbor freight kit to brush out your bores? I like the price. I found a nice stainless steel brush kit on Amazon but its $107.99. I'm not sure if we are allowed to link an Amazon product but the is the name of the kit. Diesel Injector-Seat Cleaning Kit (Stainless Steel) IPA 8090S
 
  #72  
Old 03-05-2018, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 714shane
Brian42, did you use the harbor freight kit to brush out your bores? I like the price.
I used the IH ones to clean the hole (thin brush) and the upper portions of the bore (fat one). For the flat seat itself I used the Harbor Freight kits. I have a rotary tool with a flexible extension so that made it easier. I went through 2 Harbor Freight kits as each set of brushes was pretty much done after I finished a bank (side).

Originally Posted by 714shane
I'm not sure if we are allowed to link an Amazon product...
You can post a link as long as you are not profiting from it. If you are not financially associated with it then you're good to go.
 
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