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Hello! Help or assist to understand with a problem. When the street became cold, the car began to get badly started, and then it stopped completely. The candles and the glow relay were checked, so there was one possible reason - FICM. Fuse OK. Verification FiCM showed: the voltage when the ignition is not switched on 48v, when the ignition is on, drops to 20-30 then rises to 48V, and when you start, it again drops to 20v. What advise in this case? Apply a photo of Ficm, visually everything is in order ....
Did you do as Yahiko advised: "check the 50A fuse in the CJB (Central Junction Box) F2.03 That is the fuse box in the cab unlike the newer trucks that have it in the BJB (Battery Junction Box) Check the fuse with a meter."?
It is most likely that your FICM itself has failed. You can try repairing it per Dr. Quad's thread, but IMO that still leaves areas that could fail in the unit. Also, if you mess up, it might not be fixable by the pros like FICMrepair.com.
Not sure what options exist in Belarus (if that is where you are) but the best thing for you to do (IMO) is find a known good FICM and install it to verify that your problems are solved. Do you have access to a known good module?
Next best option is to just send the FICM in to FICMrepair.com. As Yahiko said, it will come back better than new. To begin with, they test and repair both the power board and the logic board.
The next best thing for you might be to order a power board for it, but be aware that the logic board also fails more commonly then you would think.
Did you do as Yahiko advised: "check the 50A fuse in the CJB (Central Junction Box) F2.03 That is the fuse box in the cab unlike the newer trucks that have it in the BJB (Battery Junction Box) Check the fuse with a meter."?
It is most likely that your FICM itself has failed. You can try repairing it per Dr. Quad's thread, but IMO that still leaves areas that could fail in the unit. Also, if you mess up, it might not be fixable by the pros like FICMrepair.com.
Not sure what options exist in Belarus (if that is where you are) but the best thing for you to do (IMO) is find a known good FICM and install it to verify that your problems are solved. Do you have access to a known good module?
Next best option is to just send the FICM in to FICMrepair.com. As Yahiko said, it will come back better than new. To begin with, they test and repair both the power board and the logic board.
The next best thing for you might be to order a power board for it, but be aware that the logic board also fails more commonly then you would think.
Still there is a moment. Earlier, when the ignition was switched on, a "crackling" sound was heard from the engine compartment for 5-10 seconds. Now this sound is not ... Is this related to the non-working FICM ???
Have you checked the battery and alternator cables to verify they are in good shape and all connections are tight? This includes the ground cables?
I would hate to do any more guessing than that - check for electrical cable and wire harness chafing.
I have not ever heard of crackling sounds specifically related to a failing FICM (if that is your question), but I suppose an internal component failure on the FICM could make a sound of some sort when/if it shorted out.
Have you checked the battery and alternator cables to verify they are in good shape and all connections are tight? This includes the ground cables?
I would hate to do any more guessing than that - check for electrical cable and wire harness chafing.
I have not ever heard of crackling sounds specifically related to a failing FICM (if that is your question), but I suppose an internal component failure on the FICM could make a sound of some sort when/if it shorted out.
About the sound when the ignition is turned on, it's the cracking of the injectors. So they are not signaled by FICM, if I understand correctly ... I'll try to find the same car with a working FICM and try to put it and start a car.
Bring it to a radio/TV repair guy or someone that is familiar with electronics repair. Commonly the highlighted resistors become unsoldered and just needs to be reattached. There are 4 of them so it's 8 joints that need to be soldered. You could also replace the resistors if you can get them. There is also the option of replacing the board for a fraction of the cost of the whole unit. But if you find another FICM, from any truck will work.
On that solder. You are better off removing all the solder and
re-soldering a new resistor with fresh solder. The solder that was
used when the FICMs were built sort of sucks. It like the crap
used in the overhead displays that quit all the time.
On that solder. You are better off removing all the solder and
re-soldering a new resistor with fresh solder. The solder that was
used when the FICMs were built sort of sucks. It like the crap
used in the overhead displays that quit all the time.
I know that Ed does international shipping and if he can't get something to you
I would still call and have a talk with him or you can do email and save on the toll
calling. Ed is a really good guy and has given a lot back to 6.0L community.
The trick with the resistors is getting the right service temp rating. That and the
brittle solder is part of the failure. Also if your want to do it right there are some
capacitors that should also be replaced..
12-30-2017, 04:47 AM
