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If you have an early build truck it will not stop with a full tank. They did not install a check valve in the vent line and it will continue to drain unless you have a low amount of fuel remaining. I have experienced this with my truck. First time i did the filters it stopped the next time i did them it kept draining. Due to difference in fuel level.
If you have a later build date, i dont know when they fixed this, you have a check valve installed and it will stop draining.
If you have the early model you have to pull the middle line on top of your tank to get the fuel to stop draining. Then you can change them as normal.
Its gonna suck if you dont have a heated work area to do this.
Fortunately, I do have a heated shop. I believe this is a later build truck...July 2017 or later?
I am visiting family up in Iowa and received the same dash warning after having trouble starting the truck. I didn't look at the forecast and didn't realize the temperatures were supposed to dip into negative territory for so long. In short, I never added anti-gel. Once the truck started, I headed to the local Ford dealer to see if they had the Motorcraft anti-gel. This is a very small dealer in small-town Iowa and they did not carry the Motorcraft ant-gel. Instead, I bought the Power Service anti-gel and cetane boost all-in-one. I put some of the Power Service in the truck and filled up with the local winter blend of diesel. I haven't seen the dash warning since. I am wondering if you need the Motorcraft cetane boost as well.
NEVER put power service in your truck. It is an emulsifier which is very bad.
Fortunately, I do have a heated shop. I believe this is a later build truck...July 2017 or later?
I experienced the same thing 2 years ago. Driving down the highway, got the reduced power and it limited me to about 30mph because of the reduced fuel.
Got off highway and took back roads to dealer. Got there, ice chips in fuel filter, replaced and add pm23 to tank and all was fine. I'm in NH too, was -14 at my house 2 mornngs ago.
I normally have the dealer change my filters so the service is on record, but if forced to do so I would change mine, and it seems like a very straightforward process. The only part I didn't understand ( and excuse me if this sounds dumb ) is how do you prime the system with a key start? I definitely could understand turning the key on and off, but how do you cycle the fuel pump with the push button?
I normally have the dealer change my filters so the service is on record, but if forced to do so I would change mine, and it seems like a very straightforward process. The only part I didn't understand ( and excuse me if this sounds dumb ) is how do you prime the system with a key start? I definitely could understand turning the key on and off, but how do you cycle the fuel pump with the push button?
Just got back from two dealers...neither have any 2017 style filters in stock. All sold out or taken by service department since yesterday. I have one ordered for me coming tomorrow. Truck is now running well after dumping half a bottle of anti gel in and driving at 75 mph for 30 minutes. Bought two more bottles. Will change filters tomorrow to be safe. Just topped the tank with diesel and added even more anti-gel. Diesel jumped $0.10 per gallon today but gas stayed the same price. Talked to a tech at one of the dealers, he says they have changed filters on four 6.7L trucks just today that have waxed or gelled. He told me to only use the Ford anti-gel...says the 6.7L definitely doesn’t like Diesel 911.
For future reference - I know Advanced Auto carries Motorcraft filters for the 6.7 PS. Same as going to the dealer and the same price. Not sure about other parts stores, but I bought and changed mine last month from Advanced.
For future reference - I know Advanced Auto carries Motorcraft filters for the 6.7 PS. Same as going to the dealer and the same price. Not sure about other parts stores, but I bought and changed mine last month from Advanced.
Thanks, good to know. Of course, the nearest Advance Auto parts store to me is in the same town as the dealer, lol.
Another cold weather trick to prevent fuel gelling is to add kerosene to your diesel fuel. I don't quite remember the ratio, I'm thinking it was anywhere from 10-30% kerosene to fuel. We used to do this to keep heavy equipment running during bitter cold weather. I would think a commercial fuel supplier could give you the correct ratio. I would definitely recommend using a lubricity additive along with the kerosene mix. Stanadyne makes a good one.
As a matter of fact, years back when we did snow removal at O'Hare airport, the fuel suppliers brought us straight "Jet A" for our wheel loaders. Of course, you wouldn't want to run that in your diesel during the summer or for long extended periods of time due to the lack of lubricity in the jet fuel.
I really don't know how these new fuel sytems would take to having straight jet fuel run through them. Don't think they'd like it. But then again, they are designed to run on low lubricity fuel.
Another cold weather trick to prevent fuel gelling is to add kerosene to your diesel fuel. I don't quite remember the ratio, I'm thinking it was anywhere from 10-30% kerosene to fuel. We used to do this to keep heavy equipment running during bitter cold weather. I would think a commercial fuel supplier could give you the correct ratio. I would definitely recommend using a lubricity additive along with the kerosene mix. Stanadyne makes a good one.
As a matter of fact, years back when we did snow removal at O'Hare airport, the fuel suppliers brought us straight "Jet A" for our wheel loaders. Of course, you wouldn't want to run that in your diesel during the summer or for long extended periods of time due to the lack of lubricity in the jet fuel.
I really don't know how these new fuel sytems would take to having straight jet fuel run through them.
Knowing how sensitive the modern, ultra-high pressure fuel system is on the 6.7L Ford...I'm very wary to put anything in the tank besides pump #2 and Motorcraft additives.
I have several diesel tractors and particularly the non common-rail tractors I don't get concerned about putting aftermarket additives or kerosene in.
Got my low pressure warning again on my way to dealer to pick up the filters. Changed them tonight. The frame filter had ice/wax in the pleats. Definitely not totally plugged, but plugged enough to trip the pressure light. Top filter is a piece of cake to change.
Primed a few times and it started almost immediately. I let it run a couple of minutes then shut it down for cleanup. Next restart it cranked over a lot before starting.
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