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Has anyone else run in to shifter on tranny hitting exhaust pipe because of headers ? Seems I will have to dent the pipe or cut out a larger notch and weld in to make a lower spot for shifter arm on a c6 tranny so it can clear,,
Can’t help you but I have long tube headers and I wish I never bought them. They are a major pain.
Just glad I have the body off so I can correct the issues easier now , only 3 spots , passenger side needs a notch on engine perch corner not to hard and crossmember just behind rear of engine the header rest on the top but easy to notch that as well , was more of a pain to install the header on that side than anything ,,the drivers side dropped right in but sits to close to shifter arm , if I can get that worked out they should at least sound good ,,
Can’t help you but I have long tube headers and I wish I never bought them. They are a major pain.
Fenderwell exit headers. They are your friend
Depending on what motor you have, you may not be able to run fenderwell exits as they're not made by many.. but dang do they ever clear up the engine bay nicely when it works out
Here's a link to a post by 77&79F250. He advocates for them all the time since he's already been through your frustration with headers that AREN'T fenderwell exits.
Just glad I have the body off so I can correct the issues easier now , only 3 spots , passenger side needs a notch on engine perch corner not to hard and crossmember just behind rear of engine the header rest on the top but easy to notch that as well , was more of a pain to install the header on that side than anything ,,the drivers side dropped right in but sits to close to shifter arm , if I can get that worked out they should at least sound good ,,
I have the Hedman long tubes on a 390FE, my truck is a 76 F250 4x4. To get my passenger side in I unbolted the engine and lifted it up a few inches to get more clearance. That was the only way I could get them in.
Also the headers were making contact with the starter and would heat soak the hell out of the thing. I had to swap in a mini starter just so I wouldn’t get stranded.
I used mandrel tubing with a s bend to neatly clear the shift linkage and go above trans mount. No problem just a little time a saw and welder.
I have some s bend extensions for both sides and going above the trans mount as well but the drivers side header is just to close to shifter arm , thinking of cutting and notching the pipe and weld in lower indent in the pipe
Cut a 'V' groove into a piece of timber and rest the pipe in that so the back side doesn't dent. Now use a sledgehammer to tap away at the face of the pipe you want dented.
Cut a 'V' groove into a piece of timber and rest the pipe in that so the back side doesn't dent. Now use a sledgehammer to tap away at the face of the pipe you want dented.
Finito.
Perhaps that might work, but with a cold day an snow possible for tomorrow , I plan on trying to make some cuts and weld in a low surface to remedy the issue ,,The lever sits quite aways in to diameter of pipe and close to flange , so we will see what happens, if I don't like the weld job then I have extra pieces for the hammer to dent trial .
Based on the video that The two crazy guys from Roadkill put out, I think its an Enginemasters video, they purposefully beat in some headers with a sledge and dynotested the results.....dents don't affect power so dont be afraid to make it fit lol. I just bought a set of Hooker headers (360/390) because they dont make the blackjacks anymore (dynomax went under) and i had to notch out my front crossmember (between radius arms).
Had my head backwards,,when I finally assembled this I was able to flip the stud over and put linkage on opposite side of lever and still have clearance , no more problem , wished I had look closer earlier