One more problem
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
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From: Eureka, Ca.
One more problem
I was planning on runnig 3" exhaust on my truck. I have hedman headers. I already ordered 3" tubes and muffs along with the 3" collector to pipe adapter.
Guess what...
3" pipe won't fit between the C6 and crossmember.
What to do?
I was considering using the 3" to 2-1/2" adaptors that came with the headers to get through the tight spot. then going back to 3" pipe. The section of 2-1/2" pipe would be 3" long. what do you all think?
I will be running moroso crankcase evac. system. The 2-1/2" pipe would make a good venturi wouldn't it?
Guess what...
3" pipe won't fit between the C6 and crossmember.
What to do?
I was considering using the 3" to 2-1/2" adaptors that came with the headers to get through the tight spot. then going back to 3" pipe. The section of 2-1/2" pipe would be 3" long. what do you all think?
I will be running moroso crankcase evac. system. The 2-1/2" pipe would make a good venturi wouldn't it?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
That is what I did but I think it was only becasue the shifter arm was in the way. I think now that I have a B&M shifter and the arm is gone it will work now. My next headers is going to have 2 1/2 inch collectors and that is what I am going to run all the way back. 3" is loud as heck! It does sound sweet though but I doubt all the neighbors think so.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Evanston, WY
The size of pipe needed to carry your exhaust gets smaller as the exhaust gasses cool, so theres a possibility that it won't be a restriction at all. Also there are many guys running 2 1/2 all the way from the header back. So if there is no other choice, do it.
-Scouder
-Scouder
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eureka, Ca.
What if I remove the crossmember? Is it really needed in a street only truck? As far as I can tell it is there only too stiffen up the area where the control arms mount. I think I can live without it.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Evanston, WY
Now you're hot roddin! If you think you can do without the crossmember then take it out. If you see problems then solve em and let us know. Good luck.
-Scouder
-Scouder
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
That would alleviate the deep tranny pan clearance problem also. I'm thinking that it is needed for stability though. Maybe if you weld some solid steel rods in an X pattern in the general area you could make up for it and have your header clearance. I think it is bolted in there. Your tranny mount X-member and the engine perch crossmember might be strong enough. I'll have to crawl under the truck tomorrow and take a look and see what all it supports. Maybe we are on to something good here.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eureka, Ca.
I took another "look", well feel/blurry gaze.
Where the control arms mount is also where the body mounts. Do you think this would cause more or less frame flex? Considering that the cab is heavy and mounted with rubber.
Where the control arms mount is also where the body mounts. Do you think this would cause more or less frame flex? Considering that the cab is heavy and mounted with rubber.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
It could be a problem but I think it is in place due to the fact that most people who drove these trucks back then (and many today) don't keep them on the pavement. Off-roading can torture a frame.
I do see frame twist become a problem on the chevy cars though on the track. I have seen grand nationals lift the left front tire about 3 to 4 feet off the ground and the other is still stuck to the track. That scares me every time I see it. I would not like to see my truck do that. Right now the left only comes up a tad bit more than the right. They don't leave the ground yet but someday they will. I will post a video of me hopping a pop can when that day somes.
Even if you were to take it out and mount stell blocks under the frame with tapped holes to bolt it back in about 4" lower it would help.
Another thing I was thinking about is how much of a pain in the butt bolting up the collectors can be becasue of that dang bar.
Leave it up to the blind guy to point out the obvious!
I'm going to wait until tomorrow to look. Its dark out and I will probably hurt myself.
I do see frame twist become a problem on the chevy cars though on the track. I have seen grand nationals lift the left front tire about 3 to 4 feet off the ground and the other is still stuck to the track. That scares me every time I see it. I would not like to see my truck do that. Right now the left only comes up a tad bit more than the right. They don't leave the ground yet but someday they will. I will post a video of me hopping a pop can when that day somes.
Even if you were to take it out and mount stell blocks under the frame with tapped holes to bolt it back in about 4" lower it would help.
Another thing I was thinking about is how much of a pain in the butt bolting up the collectors can be becasue of that dang bar.
Leave it up to the blind guy to point out the obvious!
I'm going to wait until tomorrow to look. Its dark out and I will probably hurt myself.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 12
From: SW Michigan
crossmember clearance
I wouldn't drive the truck around without that crossmember in there. Where the radius arms meet the frame is not someplace you can skimp on strength, especially with the cab mounts right above that. If you can get that cross member out ( isn't it held on with some huge rivets ? ), you could consider modifieing it then putting it back in. Or maybe modify it in place. Here's what we've done on some other vehicles. Using a sawsall, cut away the raised up portion of the X-member, just where it interfears with the pipe. Then weld some square channel to the bottom of the crossmember to get your strength back. The mods are easiest if the piece is out, but not all of them will come out. You could also use the 3 inch pipe but flatten it out for a few inches where it goes over the crossmember. DF, @ his Dad's house
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
DF shows up just when we need him! I didn't think about the radius arms. Maybe removing it and taking a 1" piece of square stock and welding it to the bottom of the frame would work. It would be a heck of a lot easier to work around anyway. You could even mount it right where it would be easy to get your tranny pan bolts out without all the headache.
Edit: Look at Gtex's truck on this page and you will see what DF is referring to. They bolt to that cross member along with frame. You would have to leave at least a little bit. I'm gonna do something with mine one way or another.
Edit: Look at Gtex's truck on this page and you will see what DF is referring to. They bolt to that cross member along with frame. You would have to leave at least a little bit. I'm gonna do something with mine one way or another.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eureka, Ca.
I took it out. It isn't all that heavy of a piece. It can't be doing all that much stiffening. There wasn't any change to the frame due to static loading. I will have to wait till I get it on the road to see if it makes any difference in the handleing. It was only held in with three small bolts on each side. The mounts for the radius rods is very stout and rivited to the frame. I honestly don't think that that little crossmember can make too much difference.the trans crossmember is only 18" or so behind it. and the front crossmember is only 20" or so in front of it. I will be leaving it out. It will make everything I do down there much easier.