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I just got a set of Hedman Elite HD headers #89830 for my F250 4x4 with a 390 motor. Called the exhaust shop and the guy said they're best in the trash, saying they're a constant problem. He was saying go with the Stan's headers, but $$$. Is there any truth to this?
I installed Summit branded Hedman's on my 351m. The paint burned off quickly, but no problems. The flange is thick and they don't leak - although they did need three hot/cold torqueing sequences...
I installed Summit branded Hedman's on my 351m. The paint burned off quickly, but no problems. The flange is thick and they don't leak - although they did need three hot/cold torqueing sequences...
Same here. Used Summit brand (exact same as Hedman) and sprayed High Temp POR15 and baked them. Damn paint burned off anyway. But as for the headers themselves, no problem at all.
May we assume that your heads are stock? I ask that b/c the Edelbrock aluminum FE heads have some subtle differences from stock and at least one of those concerns header choices.
Thats an awesome write up, I'm going to go ahead and install the headers. Yup, the heads are all stock, from what I've read the Hedmans sound like they will work out nicely. Just got to get them in. Cant wait, thanks everyone for the help!
I'm looking at getting some replacement headers for mine (along with new pipes all the way back and re-use my 2 year old Super 40's) and had a couple questions.
1. I've got block hugger headers on it now and while I don't have an issue with that type of header I'd just as soon kick them outside the fenderwell on the replacements. Is that logical thinking?
2. I see that Hedman, Hooker and Sanderson make headers for my 400. Read the posts here about Hedman and was wondering if the Hookers were any better (16 gauge instead of 18 gauge, etc.). Anybody have an perspective on those?
3. Hookers state they are full length headers... does that mean fenderwell exit, block huggers or something else that could be a pain?
4. Rich - in your thread you mentioned some trim work you did on the drivers side to support the fenderwell exit - what kind of work was that?
Fenderwell exit design get more of the heat producing pipe out the engine compartment faster. Way easier to finish the rest of the exhaust system, meaning header mufflers, turn down tips and done. Or at least you do not have to work around the trans/xfer case crossmember.
Block huggers produce heat also, but IMO the design puts it on the block/starter and that keeps it in the engine compartment. Also a caged starter meaning PITA to remove starter.
Full length are long tube/longer ended. Usually right in front of the crossmember. PITA again. Fenderwell exit are just that, exit outside the fenderwell.
I have Headman fenderwell on the F250 4wd red truck. Easy peasy, no steering shaft interference, little brake line reroute. Only had to trim like 2" tall X 6" long strip of innerfenderwell. Maybe bump grind a bit of the front cab mount cup?
Put the straights with tips at 1st (insert STUPID LOUD), then stacks STUPID LOUD X100....then the header mufflers. Way better now, I can hear myself scream in the cab. LOL
Thanks Rich - I'll go with the Hedman fenderwells as you suggest. (note: after looking at the install guide for the Hookers I think that's whats on the truck now). PO has the fuel line about 1/4" from one of the header tubes, I'm surprised I haven't had vaporlock on this truck yet.
When I ordered the headers for the 78 (f150 4x4 351m) i guess I didn't understand that the fenderwell exit still come right down the framerail, albeit externally. I installed the longtube inside-the-rail, and they work fine, but have several drawbacks:
Heat is hard on the starter
Hard to get the starter in/out
hangs low to clear the transmission and crossmember
Traps heat
If I were to do it again, I'd go fenderwell exit. Or I'd just stay with manifolds. I'm staying with manifolds on my F-350s
I'll be "That Guy". As I've said before in other threads, headers are a huge misunderstanding in the truck world. My biggest regret when it comes to my truck is installing headers. Look at the RPMs needed to see any power results from headers. We're talking above 3,500 RPMs before you gain anything noticeable. Not to mention the loss of low end torque at your normal operating range of 1,500-3,000 RPMs. But some people say headers gain MPGs. FALSE!! I got 12 MPGs with manifolds, swapped to headers and dual exhaust and it dropped to 10 MPGs. Once you understand that back pressure is a good thing for a stock to mildly built engine, you will see what I am talking about. Not every truck needs headers.
Once I find a good 460 worth buying, I will make damn sure it will have manifolds. I have spent way too much money on my 351M (close to $2k) just to see maybe 225-250hp. A stock 460 will give me much closer to the 300-325hp I'm looking for, with manifolds.
Now that I've stepped down off my soap box, let's talk "actual use of your 400ci truck"- DD, save your money and get manifolds. Play truck 250-300hp, shorties or mid-length headers. Mud truck over 300hp, then full-length headers. Quarter mile drag truck over 500hp, definitely FL headers. Just don't buy headers to gain anything. Headers are for the power that you already have, not to gain anything.
Okay guys. Somebody tell me I'm wrong!!