Notices
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: DP Tuner

How To Replace Parking Brake Release Lever assembly and cable WRITE UP

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 29, 2017 | 03:29 PM
  #1  
Tailgate77478's Avatar
Tailgate77478
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,193
Likes: 2
From: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
Club FTE Silver Member

How To Replace Parking Brake Release Lever assembly and cable WRITE UP

After looking all over the internet, I could not find any write up or video that showed how to replace the Parking / Emergency Brake Release Lever and Cable for our Super Duty trucks. That may have been because it is not very difficult, but I figured I would do a quick write up with pics and a few tips. Should only take you about 20 minutes. In my case, I am blessed with ten thumbs (not bragging) so it took me about 45 minutes.

Apologies in advance for pics being so huge. But you won't have to zoom!

MATERIALS NEEDED
Motorcraft 2C3Z2783AA Parking Brake Release Lever assembly with cable ($38.57 at dealer wholesale cost)
“Stubby” flathead screwdriver
Long flathead screwdriver
Philips screwdriver
1/2” socket
9/32" socket
10mm socket
String (about 18-24”)
Pliers (optional, see step 7)


Here is the broken lever. See that there is no cable as that is what broke...and you have to buy the whole assembly to get the cable (stupid).


1. Pop the hood and use your 1/2” socket to remove both negative battery terminals (you are pulling PCM so this is a safety precaution).

2. Remove the “fuse panel” cover below your steering column. You can use your fingers, or even the flathead screwdriver to pop the screws (¼ turn is all that's needed).

3. If your truck is equipped with the sound-deader plate below that, remove it using the Phillips screwdriver.

4. Use the 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the release lever (see pic below #5).

5. Use the 9/32” socket to remove the two bolts holding in the side of your PCM.



6. Use the stubby flathead screwdriver to wedge in between the PCM and the bracket so that you can see and have some room to work. Otherwise, go under the hood and fully remove your PCM (easiest all together, really, in retrospect).



7. Pry the plastic cable housing out of the parking brake assembly using the long flathead screwdriver. Please note that has to wedge-shaped prongs so you can either squeeze it with pliers or just pop it out forcibly with the screwdriver. Remove cable from parking brake assembly if still attached.



8. Attach new Lever assembly cable to parking brake assembly by feeding the cable first through the hole and then pushing the prongs into the hole. Let the rest of assembly hang by the parking brake foot pedal pad.

9. Feed a piece of string through the brake assembly release mechanism. This will save you TONS of time.



10. Pull the release mechanism (using the string) toward you so that you can feed the cable into the side / bottom of the release mechanism. Once accomplished, remove the string.

11. Put the release lever assembly into the two mounting holes and tighten it back down with the 10mm nuts.

12. Push your PCM back in and tighen down with the two 9/32" bolts.

13. Replace sound shield, fuse panel, and reconnect your negative battery cables.

Done!
 
Reply
Old Nov 29, 2017 | 04:08 PM
  #2  
Sous's Avatar
Sous
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Veteran: Air Force
Community Builder
Top Answer: 1
Top Answer: 3
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,305
Likes: 5,900
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
FTE Emeritus
Nice job! Reps sent for taking the time to write this up.
 
Reply
Old Nov 29, 2017 | 05:21 PM
  #3  
Walleye Hunter's Avatar
Walleye Hunter
Hotshot
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,064
From: Douglassville, PA
Ditto, thanks for that!
 
Reply
Old Nov 30, 2017 | 06:40 AM
  #4  
fordboy2's Avatar
fordboy2
Cargo Master
20 Year Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,296
Likes: 11
From: freeland, mi
Nice work and write up
 
Reply
Old Nov 30, 2017 | 08:49 AM
  #5  
F250_'s Avatar
F250_
Hotshot
15 Year Member
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
Liked
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 262
From: North of Greenville
Thanks for the effort and quality write-up, Tailgate!

I went ahead and quickly pulled together a PDF for this write-up and have attached it below for everyone's enjoyment. Obviously, the pictures are smaller in the PDF, but should be readable when printed.

Merry Christmas!
 
Attached Images
Reply
Old Aug 5, 2023 | 01:41 PM
  #6  
marksman76's Avatar
marksman76
Laughing Gas
5 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 972
Likes: 79
From: San Diego
Originally Posted by Tailgate77478
After looking all over the internet, I could not find any write up or video that showed how to replace the Parking / Emergency Brake Release Lever and Cable for our Super Duty trucks. That may have been because it is not very difficult, but I figured I would do a quick write up with pics and a few tips. Should only take you about 20 minutes. In my case, I am blessed with ten thumbs (not bragging) so it took me about 45 minutes.

Apologies in advance for pics being so huge. But you won't have to zoom!

MATERIALS NEEDED
Motorcraft 2C3Z2783AA Parking Brake Release Lever assembly with cable ($38.57 at dealer wholesale cost)
“Stubby” flathead screwdriver
Long flathead screwdriver
Philips screwdriver
1/2” socket
9/32" socket
10mm socket
String (about 18-24”)
Pliers (optional, see step 7)


Here is the broken lever. See that there is no cable as that is what broke...and you have to buy the whole assembly to get the cable (stupid).


1. Pop the hood and use your 1/2” socket to remove both negative battery terminals (you are pulling PCM so this is a safety precaution).

2. Remove the “fuse panel” cover below your steering column. You can use your fingers, or even the flathead screwdriver to pop the screws (¼ turn is all that's needed).

3. If your truck is equipped with the sound-deader plate below that, remove it using the Phillips screwdriver.

4. Use the 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the release lever (see pic below #5).

5. Use the 9/32” socket to remove the two bolts holding in the side of your PCM.



6. Use the stubby flathead screwdriver to wedge in between the PCM and the bracket so that you can see and have some room to work. Otherwise, go under the hood and fully remove your PCM (easiest all together, really, in retrospect).



7. Pry the plastic cable housing out of the parking brake assembly using the long flathead screwdriver. Please note that has to wedge-shaped prongs so you can either squeeze it with pliers or just pop it out forcibly with the screwdriver. Remove cable from parking brake assembly if still attached.



8. Attach new Lever assembly cable to parking brake assembly by feeding the cable first through the hole and then pushing the prongs into the hole. Let the rest of assembly hang by the parking brake foot pedal pad.

9. Feed a piece of string through the brake assembly release mechanism. This will save you TONS of time.



10. Pull the release mechanism (using the string) toward you so that you can feed the cable into the side / bottom of the release mechanism. Once accomplished, remove the string.

11. Put the release lever assembly into the two mounting holes and tighten it back down with the 10mm nuts.

12. Push your PCM back in and tighen down with the two 9/32" bolts.

13. Replace sound shield, fuse panel, and reconnect your negative battery cables.

Done!
Tailgate77478, refering to this step 3 you mentioned?

3. If your truck is equipped with the sound-deader plate below that, remove it using the Phillips screwdriver.

What exactly does this look like this sound shield?
Do you have a picture, or Ford part number?
Is it factory original in some trim levels?

ATTENTION: Does any other forum member have any information on this?

Thank you very much.
 

Last edited by marksman76; Aug 5, 2023 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Speiling
Reply
Old Aug 5, 2023 | 02:02 PM
  #7  
Kwikkordead's Avatar
Kwikkordead
Fleet Owner
Shutterbug
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,063
Likes: 1,097
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I did basically the same thing, except I was afraid to pry on the PCM, so I removed it to get access to the release lever. Took a little longer but I didn't want to be prying on a circuit board housing.
 
Reply
Old Aug 5, 2023 | 02:54 PM
  #8  
marksman76's Avatar
marksman76
Laughing Gas
5 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 972
Likes: 79
From: San Diego
I am in the middle of this job right now.
Does anyone know if the small e brake release cable goes behind the PCM bracket towards the fender? Or does the small cable run in between PCM and PCM bracket??
Thank you

EDIT after watching this video on youtube:, I have determined cable runs on fender side, and below little bent tab on the bare metal piece.
https://www.google.com/search?q=repl...id:QAVnJ4INMOk
 
Reply
Old Aug 5, 2023 | 04:08 PM
  #9  
marksman76's Avatar
marksman76
Laughing Gas
5 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 972
Likes: 79
From: San Diego
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I did basically the same thing, except I was afraid to pry on the PCM, so I removed it to get access to the release lever. Took a little longer but I didn't want to be prying on a circuit board housing.
Kwikkordead, I just finished the job, except for re connecting my batteries.
Eventually I had to pry PCM towards transmission tunnel, and I did not like the feel of what I did.
Hopefully I did not damage/ruin my PCM
 
Reply
Old Jul 12, 2025 | 05:48 PM
  #10  
NKENN's Avatar
NKENN
5th Wheeling
15 Year Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 49
Likes: 4
Thanks for the excellent write up with pictures. I plan on replacing the parking brake release cable on my 2001 Excursion in the next two weeks. Everything looks exactly the same as your pictures. Thanks again, great write up.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vwkess
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
8
Jul 13, 2025 10:32 PM
presidentsdad
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Oct 25, 2010 02:55 PM
Tangmus
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
2
Dec 17, 2009 02:53 PM
1bgredtk
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
4
Jul 11, 2004 10:11 AM
daring
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
2
Dec 5, 2003 12:10 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:31 PM.