Hello everyone. I will soon be pulling my head. It has studs, and I was wondering if that requires any special treatment or technique to get the head off.

I was hoping to help my back by attaching the hoist to the head, but I imagine that with studs it is essential to lift the head straight up, and that might not be so easy with the hoist.

Thanks.

 

well....sometimes a crowbar works (literally) assuming you have iron heads ...and they are stuck on....stick it through an exhaust port and gently pry............

 

There's a little indention/slit right on the front of the head where the casting number is. I've found this is a great spot to pry the two apart.

Otherwise, I think ARP just use grease when installing so they have very even torque, but otherwise can just be unbolted and removed.

Once the head is loose, connect a small chain with bolts going through to the rocker arm mounts, which should let you lift it straight up. Unless you're really slamming it around, I don't see how any bonking/bumping of the studs with the head could hurt anything.


Out of curiosity, what're you taking your head off for?

 

I havent pulled a head from a 300 with studs yet...but i have pulled heads from 5.9L cummins blocks before that had studs installed. My technique, for what its worth, was to try and remove the studs first. Shouldnt take much...arent they just supposed to be a whisker past finger tight in the block? Then pry on a reliable surface, as mentioned by AB, to break the seal. Should be able to fish it out with a hoist then. Even if you cant get the studs out, a fella could lift it off with a hoist w/o marring up the stud threads...just takes more time.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

Once this detective book is out, I'm going to remove the ridges in my chambers that have been making me burn high grade gas, not to mention shrouding my valves a bit.

I'll be raising the head to put in a new engine and trans under it, and swap in the Saginaw P/S pump with braided lines to my hydroboost. At the same time I'll be installing the Clifford shorty headers, wrapped, with a 2 into 1 3" pipe, into a flow master 50, with 2.5" new tail pipe. Did I mention the new to me Clifford intake?

It's been a long time coming. I had to upgrade my welder to use Argon gas, and get an acetylene set up. I've been collecting parts for a couple of years. Now I just have to get the time. Bought the Harbor Freight hoist, and will get their trans jack too.

It will really feel nice to have a clutch!!! and an over-drive for the freeway.

I really want to find some late model ebrake calipers (with the motor?) and retrofit to my truck. I have the el dorado ebrake calipers, but man, they really have a bad reputation.

Ha! I have three books coming out for Xmas! And, I'm trying to get the children's book available as an audio! Oh, soon into the new year I'll be putting out another automotive book, on efans, controllers, etc. And one on porting!! Dang I'm good! ha ha. As you can most likely tell by this post, I get my writing done with pure caffeine.

 

Sounds like a cool setup...and its always fun getting new tools. I'm looking forward to hearing about the blondie cam!

 

I second what TheDudeAbides said. If you can get the studs to back out, pull them first. It makes pulling the head much easier.

 

My brother (heavy duty mechanic) showed me a cool trick: Just double-nut the stud and then back it out.

Here's a youtube video showing it. Easier to see than explain

 

Yes, that's a good trick. I use it to remove carb studs too. They make what is called 'jam nuts' that are thinner nuts, if space is an issue.