When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys i did a bunch of reading on all the different types(colors) of cps there is. My truck wasn't running excellent so i decided to try a different one. I had the grey one( about 2 years old) and decided to get the dark purple/black one (motorcraft), the one that clay sells. popped it in and the truck did run more quiet and MUCH smoother gear shifts for some reason. This was a huge relief since my truck had been shifting to hard( especially between 2nd and 3rd). Well that only lasted about 2 days and now im back to running like it did with the grey one except now it has a annoying vibration that buzzes up the brake pedal to my leg. My question is..... is there something thats in the engine that is making my cps go "bad" or run not so good. thought about trying to get another dark purple one hoping that maybe the next one would last longer and that maybe i got a fluke. Have any of you experienced this?
so just for grins and giggles i changed the cps pigtail, and that did not affect anything. then i got another cps(black/purple) and popped that in. the truck is back to running nice and smooth again! i still have a slightly rough idle but it changes gears nice and smooth( just a firm bump). I have no idea what would cause this. the last cps i put in , changed gears and ran smooth for a couple of days and then back to how it always runs. i am hoping this one will last longer. Anyone have any idea of what would make the truck run different after a couple days? Almost seems like something is failing and the pcm tells what ever it is to go to default. ???? weird.....
I think you are on the right track with the cause being another sensor. I'd start by inspecting the connector on the ICP for oil, and then the EBP for soot blockage.
If you need to remove and clean the EBP be sure to use two wrenches; one on the sensor and the other underneath to hold the bracket. The bracket gets tweaked pretty easy.
If the issue returns monitoring the common sensors might show the culprit. Hooked up with Torque Pro or ForScan yet?
I think you are on the right track with the cause being another sensor. I'd start by inspecting the connector on the ICP for oil, and then the EBP for soot blockage.
If you need to remove and clean the EBP be sure to use two wrenches; one on the sensor and the other underneath to hold the bracket. The bracket gets tweaked pretty easy.
If the issue returns monitoring the common sensors might show the culprit. Hooked up with Torque Pro or ForScan yet?
there is no oil present in ICP plug, and I replaced the EBP tube about a year-and-a-half ago. Could it be blocked already? I also have a DP tuner Infinity which I can monitor all kinds of parameters. I would like to create a log while the truck is running good, can anyone let me know what parameters I need to log?
Thanks walleye, the truck went back to shifting rough today, and i didn't get a chance to set up the log. from 2nd to 3rd its banging in pretty hard and getting alot of turbo surge on 3rd and 4th gears. Its very aggravating knowing that it can run alot better( like it does after i change the cps). I have changed the cps twice now and both times it runs great and shifts firm and crisp for about 2-3 days afterwards. then it goes to shifting like crap again. I honestly think my truck is possessed or something
Did you disconnect the batteries when changing the CPS? No, you don't have to but that would cause the PCM to reset and it might take a few driving cycles for the problem to re-occur if another sensor.
Hard shifts can be caused by a bad Barro sensor. You will need a scanner to verify that. Nobody really understands why.
What does the end of the CPS look like, Is it chewed up a bit / scratched / dinged up? If so it could be to close to the cam wheel and you might need a spacer between the CPS and engine block.
Did you disconnect the batteries when changing the CPS? No, you don't have to but that would cause the PCM to reset and it might take a few driving cycles for the problem to re-occur if another sensor.
Hard shifts can be caused by a bad Barro sensor. You will need a scanner to verify that. Nobody really understands why.
What does the end of the CPS look like, Is it chewed up a bit / scratched / dinged up? If so it could be to close to the cam wheel and you might need a spacer between the CPS and engine block.
Just throwing a few thing out there to consider.
thank you guys for all the input! I hopped in the truck this morning and it ran good all day. I did change my 3/8 line from sending unit to Racor last night. Changed it to 30 r9 even though the hose I had on there was supposed to be more than good enough. Not sure if that had anything to do with it or not but the new hose seem to seal better. My old CPS didn't have any scratches or anything on it so I don't think it's too close. I did disconnect both batteries when changing the CPS . I thought the same thing, maybe it is resetting the PCM , so if it starts running bad again I will try disconnecting the batteries for a little bit to see if that helps . What is the barro sensor supposed to read? Is it around 14 .5? I will look that up on my scanner and see what it is reading. Another thing I noticed is every time I change to a different tune the pedal response is delayed quite a bit. After pushing the pedal down, up down up down a couple of times, it seems to start responding correctly. I have tried cleaning out the electrical connections on the TPS but that doesn't seem to do anything. Do you guys notice this delay in the TPS when you change Tunes?
thank you guys for all the input! I hopped in the truck this morning and it ran good all day. I did change my 3/8 line from sending unit to Racor last night. Changed it to 30 r9 even though the hose I had on there was supposed to be more than good enough. Not sure if that had anything to do with it or not but the new hose seem to seal better.
Double clamp using injector clamps (solid inside, no slots touch the hose)
I think you are on the right track with the cause being another sensor. I'd start by inspecting the connector on the ICP for oil, and then the EBP for soot blockage.
If you need to remove and clean the EBP be sure to use two wrenches; one on the sensor and the other underneath to hold the bracket. The bracket gets tweaked pretty easy.
If the issue returns monitoring the common sensors might show the culprit. Hooked up with Torque Pro or ForScan yet?
My truck hates the grey CPS, running black one.
If you never changed EPBV tube i'd say there is a 50/50 chance it's destroyed, stainless steel ones are found on ebay for 30. EBPV won't cause troubles like you're having but since you're in that area might as well tackle it and you just might get a bonus 1mpg
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.