On the Right side of your dash, you should see Wait to start, (orange) unless they changed it on the later years. If you're seeing a glow plug light, I'm going to guess that's equivalent to your WTS light, which would mean you're Fuse isn't blown. But I would still check fuse 30 by your right knee.
. (Others can chime in here.. and clarify)

 

"Glow Plug Light"???? Is this an after market light that was installed? There is no 'original' factory installed 'glow plug light'....


There is a light that comes on, on the dash... right side, slightly up.... and it says "Wait to Start"...

 

there is no such light (wait to start) on my 2002 Excursion. At least not that I have seen, or paid attention to... However there is a light on the left side of the dash that burns for a few seconds as the glow plugs heat up and then turns off once they have reached the proper temp to start the vehicle.

Here is a link to the latest live data log that I recorded this evening. I’m hoping someone will be able to look at it and tell m if anything is out of the norm. (File was to large to upload)

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AgVStJMK-LefhZsARBvdrX16FfzSpg

 

Trucks often have WTS, Excursion have the Glowplug light that you posted a pic of.

However....

The light comes on and goes off. It is NOT related to whether or not the glowplugs are actually on, working, or how long they stay on.

Let that sink in a moment....

Think that is a really dumb way to wire a glowplug "indicator light" ? You are not alone!

If you use a voltage meter of some sort (OBD, cigarette light plug, DVOM on batteries, etc), you can notice a significant (around 10%) change in voltage when the glowplugs are on or off.

I've never timed the GPs, but I've read they can stay powered on up to 2 minutes, depending on the ambient temp.

Add this to your "Guess what I learned on FTE today" list. I sure did!

 

This is the latest data log from this morning. I noticed a couple irregular numbers but I will let you guys tell me if anything stands out to you.
It’s the same link you will just see a 3rd log
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AgVStJMK-LefhZsARBvdrX16FfzSpg

 

I messed around with your log file and best I can do is a pic in the docx file attached below. People can zoom in on it to see some stuff but without having Forscan these file types are kinda useless. Saving as CSV or XLS would allow a lot more manipulation. Also we can remove some readings to gain clarity in the log. Below is a comprehensive list of PIDs to monitor put together by Rich (Tugly). For these purposes we can skip exhaust back pressure, trans temp, MAP, MFD, EOT and vehicle speed.

FWIW I could not glean anything odd from the log, looks normal. If warming oil was leaking past O rings the onset would be gradual, not sudden. Might not see anything unless you capture the moments before it dies. Kinda hard to hit a moving target tho. Buried in the files was a PERDELS test, and that looked fine, biggest delta was a modest 3-ish% on cyl 8. So your injectors are related harness are good.

For cooling the IPR try ice, not just cold water. Possibly the water splashed by too fast to do the job. Ice will take time to melt and suck out more heat. The scientific unit of measure of ice I've read about is a Big Gulp but who knows what that means. Swapping on a known good solenoid would be better.

After clearing codes did any return?

Exs have the PATS security thingy, best to turn that off if possible to rule it out. I'm not really familiar with PATS but I can imagine it causing this failure.

You're making progress so hang in there buddy.

 

I just ordered a new IPR and 8 sets of Alliant Injector O-rings from RiffRaff for the Ex. Any of you changed all the o-rings on your injectors? What am I getting into? Any special tools needed? Any things to watch out for? Also is there anything else I should do while I am doing this? Meaning while I have what ever is needed to tear down to remove and replace the o-rings is there any other preventative replace repairs I should make to a 16 y/o engine. It is the 7.3 psd with 100k miles on it.