I know there are several threads on this topic but I haven’t found one that gives me the specific info I am looking for “yet” so I’m posting this.

02 7.3 99k miles Hydra Chip

A few weeks ago truck died running down interstate had it towed home after an hour or so of trying to find the issue on side of hwy. once home it started right up! Bought CPS from International changed out and drove truck it died again about the same place. Got it home ordered rebuild kit for IPR from link on this site cleaned it up good swapped o-rings out started up and let idle about 20-30 minutes it dies again. Purchased Ford OEM ICP changed it out and again let idle for 20-30 ****s off!!

I purchased the FORScan from Amazon and the app from App Store here is where I am a little lost.

There are a lot of PID’s to choose from to record live data. Can anyone please advise what to track during the run time to try and get an idea of what is causing the problem.

I have a log file that I will attempt to attach to this thread. If anyone can assist with that info may be telling me.

Also The Hydra was installed on the truck when I purchased it. Do I need to remove it to find the issue and if I do how do I go about that?

I apologize in advance for my ignorance on these mechanical issues and appreciate any education any of you can offer me!

 

Good call on the Ford ICP sensor, the cheap fleabay items have a terrible rep. Especially when the complaint is "truck dies in same place all the time" first thing I think of is cheap ICP getting confused by strong RF emissions from a radio tower or similar.

If you can smoosh that log into a spreadsheet we can do some formatting. CSV file is ok too.

Normally the first step in diagnosis is indeed removing the chip, since bad connections there are often a problem. But in this case I'd try something else first. A common way an IPR fails is the solenoid works OK cold, and stops working when hot. So after the IPR gets hot enough the truck will stop running. Sounds like your situation. Evidently if you cool the IPR with a cup of ice or spray it with a "can of air" held upside down it will work again and allow the truck to start. Never tried it myself but it apparently works. Or borrow a known good solenoid from another truck. That would confirm the diagnosis of bad IPR. Good news is that part is easy to get at, bad news is the solenoid is not available separately so you'll need a whole IPR. And again the Ford OE parts have a far better rep than the aftermarket items at half the cost.

 

I will try the cold water on the solenoid today. Going to try and attach log fil in spreadsheet. Ok I can’t figure out how to attach..


(WARN) [18:25:01.486] Checking BLE...
(WARN) [18:25:04.509] Checking WiFi...
(OK) [18:25:05.932] Connection to adapter has been established on WiFi
(OK) [18:25:05.934] Adapter: ELM327 v2.1
(OK) [18:25:09.863] Connection to vehicle has been established
(OK) [18:25:11.176] Ford Excursion Direct Injection - Turbo 7.3L 2002 MY
(OK) [18:25:11.862] PATS - Passive Anti-Theft System
(WARN) [18:25:12.315] DTCs in PATS: U1147, U1262
(OK) [18:25:12.707] OBDII - On Board Diagnostic II
(OK) [18:25:14.486] IC - Instrument Cluster
(WARN) [18:25:15.631] DTCs in IC: B2658, U1950, B1318, U1027, U1262, B1352
(OK) [18:25:15.827] PCM - Powertrain Control Module
(WARN) [18:25:27.224] DTCs in PCM: P0562, P1249, P1000, P0381, P1211
(OK) [18:25:28.761] PAM - Parking Aid Module
(OK) [18:25:31.138] OTC - Overhead Trip Computer
(WARN) [18:25:32.805] DTCs in OTC: P0500, C1147
(OK) [18:25:33.790] ECS - Electronic Crash Sensor
(WARN) [18:25:36.943] DTCs in ECS: B1318
(OK) [18:25:37.993] GEM - Generic Electronic Module
(WARN) [18:25:49.516] DTCs in GEM: B1483, B1318, P1828, P1820, P1876, P1832, P1808, P1804
(OK) [18:25:50.460] ABS - Antilock braking system

 

Have you done anything to your fuel system or tank? What is your fuel level on the gauge? Keep it over 1/2 tank.

The next time it shuts off, open the fuel drain on you bowl for just a moment to drain some fuel and break any suction.

Then cycle your key to run, wait about 20 secs, turn key off, then immediately back on for 20 secs. Do this about 4 or 5 times.

Try to start your truck, see if it helps.

You're on the right track and getting good advice on the electronics. I am adding this to your list

 

no I haven’t done anything to the fuel system or tank. I was told to take cap off and see if it still dies and it does. I also just ran it for 20+ min when it died I poured about 32 oz of ice cold water on the IPS solenoid and tried to restart nothing... engine turns over fine but won’t start. I created a live data log while the truck was running and saved it from FORScan lite app as CSV now I must find it and try to upload to see if anyone that knows what to look for sees anything. However I have no idea which PID’s to trac data on so I just chose some.

Should i I still try the fuel bowl?

 

Okay, I'd say before spending $$ and time on too much else, you gotta get a Hutch mod done to your fuel tank. At 15 yrs old, the pickup and screens are probably mostly plugged, the pickup foot dissolved, and the duckbill with no flexibility feeding your system air.

No fuel = no run. Get that part squared away, then you can troubleshoot the other components.

If the fuel system isn't biting you right this moment, it absolutely will. How full is your tank? Keeping it over 1/2 tank *might* help a little, but eventually it won't.

 

it has 1/4 tank right now but was near half when this issue started. I opened the release valve on the bowl for about 10 seconds, turned the key on for 20 secs like you said 5 times and tried to start nothing.... I need this truck!

 

Okay. You cycled the key with the valve closed, right?

If you need the truck right away, grab some jugs and get her between 1/2 and 3/4 full.

The other quick and dirty method to test if it is related to the tank is to get a set of quick release tools and pull the input line off your fuel pump (below the drivers seat, tucked into your frame under the truck) and run a temporary line from the pump into a jug of diesel.

Cycle the key at least 5 times and see if she'll start. Make sure to have full battery charge. If voltage drops below 10.5v while cranking, it may or may not start- even though it turns over.

Even if that is the issue, it will take a bit to start from an out of fuel issue.

Note: You can have enough fuel to fill the bowl, but not enough to get decent PSI and volume delivery to start and run.

As others mentioned above, more things to try and check, but this is a piece of clear fuel line and a couple of hose clamps. The clear line isn't good for long term diesel use, but is very helpful during testing to see what is going on.

You can test the other items previously mentioned simultaneously. They ALL have to work properly to start and run

 

question 1) How did it 'die'. Fast, like key shut off or slow, like running out and starved of fuel?


question 2) Unplug the electric fuel heating element at the back of the bowl. You do not need it and it will cause problems if your heating element burns out. Have you checked the fuel bowl heating element and fuse on this line?


question 3) Have you checked your oil level. too low of oil, no oil pressure, no open injectors, no start.


question 4) If your CPS gets any moisture into it, it will cause truck to die, as if you turn the key off. Take off, clean and put a sealant that does not become solid on the o-ring.


5) Get a cigarette 12voltage plug in and check your battery voltage while trying to start and running. 10.5 or lower voltage will not allow truck to start or to run. Batteries ok or shorted? Alternator ok?

 

1) fast like key
2)I will unplug when I get home
3)oil lvl is good
4)I just replaced the CPS with new one from International dealer
5) I have a volt meter gauge from RifRaf can’t remember brand batteries seem to stay well above 10.5

 

The debate is always between 'Fuel and Electrical'....


I know nothing at all and these are just my humble opinions.


If the heating element has burned out that is inside your fuel bowl, it may have blowing out the fuse to that line. check the fuse and replace, not sure which it is. Unplug connection on back of fuel bowl and leave unplugged.


When my CPS was acting up, it was like.... driving down the road and went through a water puddle and it shut off like I hit the key switch. Dead, shut off. Scared the hell out of me.... truck started right back up and ran fine until I drove through another water puddle.


Water/moisture was getting passed the o-ring. The Cam Positioning Sensor has to work ok.... yes, I know that you just put in a new one. Did you keep your old one? check you new one again. Are the connections good and tight? Take the new one out and make sure the area is clean of oil (ect) and not interrupting the Sensor reception. The new sensor 'may' even be bad. Do you still have your old one to try and reinstall it?


Just talking out loud to my self....

 

Do you have a Wait to Start light when you turn the key on? If not its related to #2 above, the fuel bowl heater. Unplug fuel bowl heater, check fuse 30 by your left knee. If your FBH shorted, no WTS light no start.

 

I did not see a clear answer about the fuel bowl. When it dies. Turn on the drain on the fuel bowl and check if fuel drains out. Cycle the ignition on off and leave it in the on position. Do you get a good stream of fuel from the drain until the pump shuts off (about 20 sec)? That will tell that the fuel pump is kind of working. It might not support a load, but it should be enough fuel to start.

 

my glow plug light is on if that’s what your referring to.... I don’t know that I have ever seen a WTS light.? What does it look like? I will try to google it.

 

not 100% sure what I did is correct but I will explain step by step.
first the symptoms
Truck will start and run great for roughly 30 minuets. At that point it shuts off like I have turned the key off never any stutter no rough running nothing just running fine then dead.. Engine turns over strong but will not start. Will not start for some time (roughly 2 hours) then it will fire right up like nothing is wrong.
First I changed the CPS with OEM part
second i cleaned and rebuilt IPR
3rd i replaced ICP with OEM part
I have poured cold water on the IPR after it dies suggested by a couple of members that the selonoid may be over heating
I have removed fuel cap suggested by a member that had a similar issue with a vent tube blockage
I opened the fuel bowl drain valve for 10 to 15 seconds allowing fuel to drain and possibly releasing any suction then turned key on to run position for roughly 20 seconds at a time 5 times in a row. Then tried to start.
I have purchased the FORScan WiFi OBDII reader and the app. I do not know exactly what to monitor with it and I can’t monitor everything at once with my phone or maybe to much for the reader but I have monitored all the above replaced parts and saved the logs I just have no idea how to upload to this site.

I have also also had another member suggest that it seems as though once the engine oil has heated up it may be passing by the multitude of O-rings throughout the system causing a failure to keep the required pressure. I hope to find a way to log data that will confirm this

None of the above have worked for me. Tomorrow I am going to remove the new CPS clean throughly and reinstall also will unplug the fuel bowl heater and check the #30 fuse by my left knee. Also have a friend with a laptop computer that is coming by to monitor the OBDII reader that has the ability to log more data and hopefully show me how to retrace the saved data and upload here. To see if any of that makes a difference