Hitch receiver and reducer
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Oro Valley, AZ
There is NOTHING Ford can do to slow down the up and down sea saw affect from the ball of the trailer hitch to the trailer.
The current trucks have a much higher tow rating then most trailers. But saying Weight distribution bars they are not required is not correct. They very much help any many circumstances.
The current trucks have a much higher tow rating then most trailers. But saying Weight distribution bars they are not required is not correct. They very much help any many circumstances.
Jack
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 682
Likes: 4
From: SF Bay Area
I would either use the 2” or 3”. Never 2.5”.
I thought about tacking the reducers together and possibly enlarging the holes just in the reducers so that when the reducers are slid all the way to the ‘stop’ everything Is lined up.
Also thought about adding a set bolt or something to hold spacers in place.
Sooo many other things in life higher on the list than this tho... lol.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,745
Likes: 72
From: West Virginia
Some things to keep in mind:
1. If you have the three inch receiver, the 2” reducer does not have a flange on it. The 2” reducer for a 2.5” receiver does have a flange and will not fit deep enough for the pin holes to line up. The 3” to 2.5” reducer does have a flange and lines up just fine.
2. Nowhere does the owners manual specifically state a weight distribution hitch is not required. The hitch is a pivot point. Even if it is rated the same with or without a wdh using a wdh is going to shift weight from the rear axle to the steer axle and to the trailer axle(s). This can dramatically affect how the camper behaves while being pulled.
1. If you have the three inch receiver, the 2” reducer does not have a flange on it. The 2” reducer for a 2.5” receiver does have a flange and will not fit deep enough for the pin holes to line up. The 3” to 2.5” reducer does have a flange and lines up just fine.
2. Nowhere does the owners manual specifically state a weight distribution hitch is not required. The hitch is a pivot point. Even if it is rated the same with or without a wdh using a wdh is going to shift weight from the rear axle to the steer axle and to the trailer axle(s). This can dramatically affect how the camper behaves while being pulled.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Oro Valley, AZ
Some things to keep in mind:
1. If you have the three inch receiver, the 2” reducer does not have a flange on it. The 2” reducer for a 2.5” receiver does have a flange and will not fit deep enough for the pin holes to line up. The 3” to 2.5” reducer does have a flange and lines up just fine.
2. Nowhere does the owners manual specifically state a weight distribution hitch is not required. The hitch is a pivot point. Even if it is rated the same with or without a wdh using a wdh is going to shift weight from the rear axle to the steer axle and to the trailer axle(s). This can dramatically affect how the camper behaves while being pulled.
1. If you have the three inch receiver, the 2” reducer does not have a flange on it. The 2” reducer for a 2.5” receiver does have a flange and will not fit deep enough for the pin holes to line up. The 3” to 2.5” reducer does have a flange and lines up just fine.
2. Nowhere does the owners manual specifically state a weight distribution hitch is not required. The hitch is a pivot point. Even if it is rated the same with or without a wdh using a wdh is going to shift weight from the rear axle to the steer axle and to the trailer axle(s). This can dramatically affect how the camper behaves while being pulled.
Jack
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