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Injector O rings question

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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 10:05 AM
  #1  
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Injector O rings question

Hello everybody, I know this is unadvisable, but I was just wondering if you could replace just one bank of injector o rings? Its just a matter of evacuating the oil and fuel from the system and making sure the cylinders are clear on the bank you remove, correct? and ofcourse making sure the engine isn't going to fire when clearing the cylinders or anything like that. I've isolated what I believe a slight injector knocking noise, to one cylinder, I believe that's what the noise is anyway, it's only at idle and can be intermittent and I'd like to pull the injectors on that bank and replace the o rings while I'm there.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 10:17 AM
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I have in the past, replaced o-rings on just one injector before, so I don't think doing one side would be a problem.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 10:18 AM
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BTW, easiest way for the truck not to fire is, unplug the 42 pin connector.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by HKusp
BTW, easiest way for the truck not to fire is, unplug the 42 pin connector.
What about if his tuner has a "no start" tune on it? Is that possible with DP?

When I replaced my steering gear (twice) recently I pushed the air out of the system and fluid into the system by setting the Hydra to "no start" and would crank the engine for 5-6 seconds at a time and then let it cool. This turned the power steering pump via the pulley, but prevented the truck from starting so that I could keep an eye on the fluid level while filling appropriately.

Just a thought.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 10:56 AM
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Yeah my DP has a no-start as well. You can actually unplug the selector and it defaults to no-start too.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 11:04 AM
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I don’t see any fuel mods in your signature. An injector knock can be caused by air in the fuel, or a loose injector. As long as the injector hold down bolts are still tight and you don’t have any oil in the fuel filter or ICP issues, I don’t see how replacing O rings will help.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 11:48 AM
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Thank you all for the replies, I did forget about the no start on my dp tuner actually. So that's what I'll use for that, and as far as fuel mods I do have all four of the banjo bolts in the heads upgraded with the riffraff banjo bolts and I do have the riffraff fuel rail crossover with regulator upgraded along with the oil hpx done too. I do not have the hutch and harpoon mod done however.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 11:50 AM
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I did the Injector o rings probably 7,000 miles ago, I however did not retorque them after getting them hot or after driving it some so I'm thinking even after I loctited one that one has worked loose or an o rings has gone bad. There is 60,000 miles on these ffa stage 2 injectors so they should be good.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 12:20 PM
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I’ve never done a hot retorque and they’ve stayed put. I would at least check the torque before you decide to dive in. I have had O rings go bad in 12k miles. 6 of the 8 were all eroded at the top square O ring.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 12:37 PM
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Yeah that's what im thinking. Bad o rings on one of them. I used Ford oem too but crap can happen still. So I'll pull driver side valve cover tonight, check torque first, if not, I'll pull injectors and glow plugs on driver side and re o ring them, and do passenger side tomorrow night if it doesn't cure the knock. Only heard at idle, goes away above 1800 rpms. Even at idle it's intermittent and I can almost tell you the day it started about 6 days ago.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 07:11 AM
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LOTO - Lock Out Tag Out. That's the practice where you prevent something from accidentally starting by disabling the system in a reliable way.

As for the no-start tune (DP, Cody, PHP, Gearhead, 1023, or anybody else), I never trust electrons to go (or not go) where they're told... they can be quite impish. I also don't trust me to hit the button correctly... anybody who has read my texts or posts before I proof read and correct can back me up on this.

Pulling the 42-pin connector, removing the key from the ignition and using the fender relay on pre-2002 trucks, pulling the IPR connector, etc... are all more trusted means of preventing an unsolicited start.

The no-start tune will work, but I don't trust my appendages to it.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
LOTO - Lock Out Tag Out. That's the practice where you prevent something from accidentally starting by disabling the system in a reliable way.

As for the no-start tune (DP, Cody, PHP, Gearhead, 1023, or anybody else), I never trust electrons to go (or not go) where they're told... they can be quite impish. I also don't trust me to hit the button correctly... anybody who has read my texts or posts before I proof read and correct can back me up on this.

Pulling the 42-pin connector, removing the key from the ignition and using the fender relay on pre-2002 trucks, pulling the IPR connector, etc... are all more trusted means of preventing an unsolicited start.

The no-start tune will work, but I don't trust my appendages to it.
I believe that pulling the IDM relay is another way of causing a "no start" condition correct?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 09:13 AM
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Or you could unplug the cam sensor. It will crank all day and no fire.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 09:15 AM
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Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I typically pull the fuel pump fuse and the idm relay and a couple others just in case, I was mainly concerned about fuel and oil being in the other bank and trying to fire just in case, but i'll have the 42 pin connector disconnected anyway as I'm doing the driver side tonight. The noise I've been hearing this week is getting louder so its getting done tonight for sure.
 
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