Injector O rings question
#1
Injector O rings question
Hello everybody, I know this is unadvisable, but I was just wondering if you could replace just one bank of injector o rings? Its just a matter of evacuating the oil and fuel from the system and making sure the cylinders are clear on the bank you remove, correct? and ofcourse making sure the engine isn't going to fire when clearing the cylinders or anything like that. I've isolated what I believe a slight injector knocking noise, to one cylinder, I believe that's what the noise is anyway, it's only at idle and can be intermittent and I'd like to pull the injectors on that bank and replace the o rings while I'm there.
#4
When I replaced my steering gear (twice) recently I pushed the air out of the system and fluid into the system by setting the Hydra to "no start" and would crank the engine for 5-6 seconds at a time and then let it cool. This turned the power steering pump via the pulley, but prevented the truck from starting so that I could keep an eye on the fluid level while filling appropriately.
Just a thought.
#6
#7
Thank you all for the replies, I did forget about the no start on my dp tuner actually. So that's what I'll use for that, and as far as fuel mods I do have all four of the banjo bolts in the heads upgraded with the riffraff banjo bolts and I do have the riffraff fuel rail crossover with regulator upgraded along with the oil hpx done too. I do not have the hutch and harpoon mod done however.
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#8
I did the Injector o rings probably 7,000 miles ago, I however did not retorque them after getting them hot or after driving it some so I'm thinking even after I loctited one that one has worked loose or an o rings has gone bad. There is 60,000 miles on these ffa stage 2 injectors so they should be good.
#9
#10
Yeah that's what im thinking. Bad o rings on one of them. I used Ford oem too but crap can happen still. So I'll pull driver side valve cover tonight, check torque first, if not, I'll pull injectors and glow plugs on driver side and re o ring them, and do passenger side tomorrow night if it doesn't cure the knock. Only heard at idle, goes away above 1800 rpms. Even at idle it's intermittent and I can almost tell you the day it started about 6 days ago.
#11
LOTO - Lock Out Tag Out. That's the practice where you prevent something from accidentally starting by disabling the system in a reliable way.
As for the no-start tune (DP, Cody, PHP, Gearhead, 1023, or anybody else), I never trust electrons to go (or not go) where they're told... they can be quite impish. I also don't trust me to hit the button correctly... anybody who has read my texts or posts before I proof read and correct can back me up on this.
Pulling the 42-pin connector, removing the key from the ignition and using the fender relay on pre-2002 trucks, pulling the IPR connector, etc... are all more trusted means of preventing an unsolicited start.
The no-start tune will work, but I don't trust my appendages to it.
As for the no-start tune (DP, Cody, PHP, Gearhead, 1023, or anybody else), I never trust electrons to go (or not go) where they're told... they can be quite impish. I also don't trust me to hit the button correctly... anybody who has read my texts or posts before I proof read and correct can back me up on this.
Pulling the 42-pin connector, removing the key from the ignition and using the fender relay on pre-2002 trucks, pulling the IPR connector, etc... are all more trusted means of preventing an unsolicited start.
The no-start tune will work, but I don't trust my appendages to it.
#12
LOTO - Lock Out Tag Out. That's the practice where you prevent something from accidentally starting by disabling the system in a reliable way.
As for the no-start tune (DP, Cody, PHP, Gearhead, 1023, or anybody else), I never trust electrons to go (or not go) where they're told... they can be quite impish. I also don't trust me to hit the button correctly... anybody who has read my texts or posts before I proof read and correct can back me up on this.
Pulling the 42-pin connector, removing the key from the ignition and using the fender relay on pre-2002 trucks, pulling the IPR connector, etc... are all more trusted means of preventing an unsolicited start.
The no-start tune will work, but I don't trust my appendages to it.
As for the no-start tune (DP, Cody, PHP, Gearhead, 1023, or anybody else), I never trust electrons to go (or not go) where they're told... they can be quite impish. I also don't trust me to hit the button correctly... anybody who has read my texts or posts before I proof read and correct can back me up on this.
Pulling the 42-pin connector, removing the key from the ignition and using the fender relay on pre-2002 trucks, pulling the IPR connector, etc... are all more trusted means of preventing an unsolicited start.
The no-start tune will work, but I don't trust my appendages to it.
#14
Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I typically pull the fuel pump fuse and the idm relay and a couple others just in case, I was mainly concerned about fuel and oil being in the other bank and trying to fire just in case, but i'll have the 42 pin connector disconnected anyway as I'm doing the driver side tonight. The noise I've been hearing this week is getting louder so its getting done tonight for sure.
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